Mexico, Guadalajara – Puerto Vallarta. 10/29 – 11/15/05
I. It's Wednesday morning. Mary's digital camera cards are full. So, before we head in to the mountains, she needs to get pics saved to discs. While waiting, an opportunity for me to send this dispatch.
Guadalajara to PV pics-
https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMteZHKrfL1wJBfjBhsnh1e8b-3YMs74IJzB-F1
Our reserved room at the youth hostel was given away (Did they see us climbing the stairs and decide we didn’t belong?). The nice gal behind the desk was very apologetic and paid our cab to the Hotel Sevilla. Clean, but noisy, hard beds, no ambience. So we made our way to Posada San Pedro, a 14 room inn that caters to longer stay students. Our room with 4 beds was an improvement, but the señora was a pill--scolding us for entering the kitchen reserved for the students and refusing use of the coffee maker. For our 4th night we moved to the San Francisco Plaza, classy old hotel. All hotels have been in the historic center, walking distance to the plazas, historic buildings (with Orozco murals adorning the vaulted ceilings), huge churches, massive city market.
Despite jet lag, we made it to the Tonolà Sunday market--streets lined with all kinds of goods, many with "factories" right behind their street stalls. 'Don't know if I'm losing my bargaining edge or they just aren't as inclined to negotiate here, but some deals weren't made, like the massive iron rosary that Lori liked.
Monday, after a good night of sleep, we hit the panaderia for an assortment of breads and tarts. 'Talked the señora in to making us a pot of coffee. Then off to Mercado Libertad. 'Covers 4 city blocks. `Found some xxl t shirts, as my small supply was already residing mostly in the dirty clothes bag. Cabbed it next to Zapopan, famous church and site of the Huichol museum. Payote has a sacred place in Huichol life and perhaps has contributed to their colorful clothing and beaded jewelry. We scored some great t shirts there.
Yesterday we visited the Hospicio Cabañas, a world heritage site, being set up for a big concert. At first it looked closed, but we were able to get in and see the chapel with the Orozco murals. 'On to the market for a second foray. I found a bag to carry acquisitions. On return to the hotel room I decided it was too big--swallows up my snorkeling fins. But, Mary tells me we can make good use of it.
Last night we visited Tlaquepaque, a Guadalajara suburb with lots of shops and historic preservation. 'Met the nicest shopkeeper, a former resident of BC for 5 years. `Bought ceramic house numbers and a metal frame to go with (`Have to fill up that new bag!).
We rented a horse and buggy to check out a local cemetery for the first night (honoring children) of Day of the Dead, only to find a crowd outside the gate and tickets sold out to the midnight fun house-type of affair. Consolation was a full hour touring the city with the pleasant and knowledgeable buggy driver.
From here we go south to Lake Chapala, decide whether to stay the night there and hopefully participate in second night of Day of the Dead, or catch a bus on to Tapalpa, a mountain village.
When I find time at an internet cafe along the road I'll fill you in.
John
II. Hola,
Last I wrote you-all we were about to leave Guadalajara. Wed. a.m. our cabbie ('Spoke fair English, was working in the Yakima Valley and got covered by ash when Mt. St. Helens blew) to the old bus station talked us in to a taxi all the way to Lake Chapala, most of an hour south. 'Good decision. The town of Chapala didn't attract us as we drove through, nor did the touted hotel there. La Posada Nueva in neighboring Ajijic was a delight. Excellent food, cranes on lily pads in the lake, as if planted there to be photogenic.
2nd night of Day of the Dead was mostly a bust too. We visited the local cemetery at dusk. It would have been better to go in the day time, perhaps chat with families making the elaborate flower arrangements that were everywhere. As it got dark visiting was impossible, as numerous musical groups were competing with each other throughout the cemetery, as well as repeated fireworks of the big boom ilk.
Next morning we opted for the long cab ride again, as getting from Lake Chapala to Tapalpa, up in the mountains not far to the west looked to be quite a challenge--'would require catching 3 buses. Another nice cabbie, who stayed with us as we checked out the overpriced first hotel and took our considerable luggage to el Hotel Hacienda. 400 vs. 1000 pesos and more beds too! (Currently exchange is about 10.5 pesos to the dollar. That’s been staying fairly stable, as the dollar loses value internationally. Meanwhile, Mexico prices go up over time, as always. Bottom line—things are more expensive for us.)
Besides the fresh air and pine forests, I wanted to visit the school for disabled in Tapalpa, known for their creative art made from refuse, which they call “papelmalecho”. I think I mentioned in the first email that both Mary and Lori are skilled at keeping formerly institutionalized folk in community living. We visited with students in the art studio, making flowers, canisters, suns, moons, etc. from old tin cans, plastic bottles and other trash. Fun stuff. We then made a significant hit on the inexpensive "store" on site, following up with a visit to Carlos’ gallery in his mother's home.
Tapalpa is beautiful. While few gringo tourists go there, Mexico knows and has included it in the Programa Pueblos Mágicos. 20 of Mexican’s most historic and beautiful towns have been identified and receive funding to keep and promote their heritages: San Cristóbal de las Casas, in Chiapas; Parras de la Fuente, in Coahuila; Comala, in Colima; Dolores Hidalgo and San Miguel de Allende, in Guanajuato; Taxco, in Guerrero; Real del Monte and Huasca de Ocampo, in Hidalgo; Tapalpa, Mazamitla and Tequila, in Jalisco; Tepotzotlán, in the State of México; Pátzcuaro and Tlalpujahua, in Michoacán; Tepoztlán, in Morelos; Mexcaltitán, in Nayarit; Cuetzalan, in Puebla; Real de Catorce, in San Luis Potosí; Izamal, in Yucatán and Valle de Bravo, in the State of México. While I have seen a lot of Mexico, there are still many places to go!
III. The next morning, outside Tapalpa the active Colima volcano showing off--steam shooting up. Just down the hill from our hotel we caught the first of 3 buses, on our way to Manzanillo on the coast. Each bus was thankfully nicer than the previous. On arrival in Manzanillo we grabbed a taxi to the northern suburb of Santiago and wisely didn't bid adios to the taxi. After checking out 4-5 hotels we were unhappy with price, location and appearance and hired the cabbie to take us on up the coast to the village of La Manzanilla. We stayed two nights, had some good food, met nice fellow travelers. We’ve made several "small world" connections. A couple of gals at the next table one night live in Sagle, Idaho (just south of Sandpoint), within shouting distance of where my parents lived for many years. An art gallery owner spends half her year in Mendocino. My brother in law's name seemed familiar. She definitely knew the late great Frank Creasy, Lucy’s uncle. Her friend bought land from him.
The bus in to Puerto Vallarta on Sunday was fancy. Jackie Chan action flicks competed for our attention with the jungle we were rolling through. On arrival at the time share (Club Regina--CR--next to the Westin Hotel) we were fortunate that our room was ready early and has one of the best views in the complex--11th floor facing the ocean. Monday Mom and Donna arrived. That night Mary Ann took all of us to dinner. Winner of the grand prize (a timeshare week) at last year's Lowry Rentals holiday party, she and friend Darlene overlapped us here.
Tuesday Lori flew home. We’ve been somewhat slow-paced since. I’ve had a bit of a cold (first in a couple of years!). I blame that recycled air on the flights down. (Will I look silly next trip when I come stumbling on to the plane, clutching my two oversized carry-ons, with a surgical mask covering my mouth and nose?) Generally we've been healthy, not getting too much sun, unlike the majority of visitors baking around the pools. Mary has dubbed us the Noroeste (NW) mystic hillbillies. We have a kitchen in the condo and have made several runs to the supermarket. Prices at the restaurants at the Westin are truly jaw-dropping. Our one meal next to the pool Sunday--two cheeseburgers, a club, 2 beers and one mixed drink--$60 with tip!
I look for pool and beach volleyball each day but have only found one of each in the first 6 days.
We’ve bused in to town a few times. ´Found Loncheria Don Viejo Jorge, next to the flea market. No tables, just bar stools, where we watch the cook. The food's sabrosa. And good prices! We Lowrys do worry unnecessarily about ¨How much does it cost?" But I barked back at the gal on the beach yesterday, when she admonished us to just spend our money while on vacation.
Mary has had an on-going saga trying to recover digital fotos she supposedly had "saved" to cd in Guadalajara. We will return from this internet cafe to a pharmacy where a well-meaning young Mexican has her photo card.
I went snorkeling at Mismaloya Beach yesterday. Fair. We’re considering renting a boat to get us to the islands at the north end of the bay.
'Time to go find out about Mary's photos.
Hasta luego,
John
IV. Summing up, Guadalajara to Puerto Vallarta
I’m home. Before it fades further, the rest of our trip:
Some things don’t change. Like time promises in Latin America. “Un ratito” should mean “a little wait” (certainly less than “un rato”). But, after an hour at the internet, on return to the pharmacy in search of Rafael (the guy who volunteered to try and retrieve Mary’s missing pics), he still hadn’t returned. So, opportunity for another 3rd world haircut. I didn’t expect to match the fabulous outcome of my Tibet experience, reported here last year*. And, I speak pretty good Spanish (Thankfully, as I wonder about possible brain damage from falling off my bike—or, just emerging senility--I find fairly fluent Spanish comes back to me time and again). It’s my fault. The gal started with a fairly thick guide on the electric razor. ‘Did a strip on my temple and asked if that was short enough. 3 times I told her to go shorter. She did. The good news: it will grow out in time. For a beard trim as well, she asked 45 pesos (Remember?—10.5 to the dollar).
Our pace was somewhat slower the last few days. Why rush away from the nice, spacious condo with the superb view and several swimming pools below? There is one reason—prices at the restaurants, so we made several Walmart (‘Sorry to my socialist friends—we didn’t have a good, frugal alternative) runs, mostly for salad stuff, pastries and WATER—10-liter megabottles (3.8 liters = one gallon!). We did good—managed to drain 3 of them in a week.
Sunday we took local buses to Bucerias, a small town north of PV. What we strolled through of the dusty Sunday market wasn’t that interesting. We decided wading the small creek (No bridge in sight) to get to the rest of the market wasn’t worth it. So, we bought a whole watermelon for 10 pesos and found a café on the beach, where we bought sodas, chips and salsa and had the melon cut up. Mom and Mary had a nice beach walk. Mary and I got tattoos for vacationers.
Sunday evening Mary began checking on boat trips. The Monday trip to swim with dolphins in the open ocean was fully booked. After signing up for the Tuesday morning boat, we agreed the risk of not making it back in time for her afternoon Alaska flight was too great. I headed to the wharf Monday morning and made a deal with the skipper of Burton II—4 hours, starting with following a school of dolphins. The first snorkeling cove was lovely, except for the stinging jellyfish. We didn’t stay long. The scenery to the next site was beautiful—jungle coming down to the water, lots of rugged rocks, with small sandy beaches interspersed. We saw more fish at the second snorkel site, but there were still some jellyfish—pretty until they drifted in to us. Initially I had asked to skip Los Arcos (“The Arches”, a few small islands just off shore), as it is a major tourist destination. Since it was not much of a detour on our return to port and we hadn’t had much snorkeling, I asked we stop there. ‘Good decision. NO jellyfish; huge schools of colorful fish. Mom could see many of them from the boat. A great day. Lots of sun, but the 30-proof sunscreen did its job, even on my nearly bald scalp.
Fortunately, before the week was over we discovered the Westin spa was open to us, no admission fee! Great facilities—sauna, steam room, shower with 15 heads!
When making frequent flyer award travel reservations, I couldn’t get flights to match the end of our timeshare week (Sunday). Short-term rental rates for owners at Club Regina (CR) are good, but they didn’t have a one bedroom (what we had) or two bedroom. While the studio unit is supposed to be maximum occupancy of two, the PV CR studios with kitchenettes come with two “matrimonio” (full) beds. They said the 4 of us could move in to a studio. Even in the one bedroom, I had been sleeping on a rollaway bed. I asked that they add one to our studio, but they said the room was too small. We all slept well enough Sunday night but when I found a friendly concierge Monday, I tried again (“Please bend the rules if you can—not only am I sleeping with my SISter, her arms get numb if she can’t stretch out!”). No luck, but we did okay. I woke up with a need to bus back in to town for last minute shopping at the flea market and was late getting back for the cab to the airport, but all the flight connections went smoothly.
Until the next trip, enjoy.
John
wrinkles45@comcast.net
253-841-4948
* Monday morning prior to leaving for the airport some distance from Lhasa, I decided I had time to get a haircut. I stepped in to a barbershop in the city, was escorted to a chair, where a gal commenced to shampoo and massage my head. After several minutes of massage, I made a motion with my fingers, beginning to worry she thought I came in only for a scalp massage. After a rinse, I was led to another chair where a guy cut my hair. Initially he was only going to take off a little. I repeatedly gestured for shorter, "like a monk". Shorter I got. While I'm unsure that I saw "beyond the veil" as Madi promised in her promo on the trip, I leave Tibet manifestly changed in outward appearance! When I went to pay, the cashier held up 2 fingers. I disappointedly assumed she wanted 200 yuen, which would be almost $20. Noting my expression, she showed me a 20 yuen bill--with 10 yuen tips to both masseuse and barber, I still spent less than $4.
