Sunday, February 21, 2016

Nica blog January 2016

. . '........... Joined Mary at Sea-Tac Tues eve, 1/5, red-eye to Miami. Breakfast “special” caught me vulnerable, due to sleep deprivation/jet-lag—Mimosa & steak—I said yes to both, w/o asking price. $49 & not a good cut of steak! I should know better—beware airport prices! Chris, owner of Miss Margrit's B&B in Granada, arranged for Andy to pick Mary & me up at Managua airport. As expected, we were warmly welcomed back at Ms Margrit's. We spend a couple of nights there in Nov 2013, our favorite lodging during that Costa Rica to Honduras trip. Hearing that coffee harvest was in it's last days, Songbird Java Mary took a tour of the coffee farm near the crest of Vulcan Mombacho, while I awaited Deanna's arrival on Thursday. We walked to downtown Granada for dinner & caught a cab home. Prior to leaving on Friday morning, we visited Doña Elba cigar factory, not far from Ms. Margrit's. They rolled a couple of cigars for Mary & me. Nice flavors. Then to the tower at Iglesia Merced—wonderful views & breeze. Next to the money-changer a block away--at the bike shop. 28 Corderos/$. In 2013 we got a Tierra Tours special, including a leisurely stop at Apoyo Lagoon, for a swim, followed by taking in the view & lunch at the crater rim & a stop at Catarina for pottery shopping Then on to León, where the driver turned around & came back, after leaving town & noticed Mary's swimsuit we'd left in his van. Our Tierra Tours van trip this time was far different. From Granada, we went to the airport, which made the trip much longer. Leaving Managua, a conscientious couple on a motorcycle alerted the driver that he had lost a piece of luggage—one of Mary's suitcases. Fortunately, on retracing our route about a km, we were able to retrieve it. We had made a deal with the driver to take us on from León to the beach town of Las Peñitas for an added $25. I expected he would offer us a discount, after Mary's suitcase fall. No way—his response was “no esta dañado” (“it's not damaged”--In fact, it was cracked). He'll probably hear from his boss after my relatively less positive TripAdvisor review (I gave an exceptional one for our driver in 2013).

Cece & Matt, a young Argentinian couple, recently purchased Simple Beach Lodge in Las Peñitas. Website - http://simplebeachlodge.com/las-penitas-hotel/  Mary found them on Facebook. They asked Mary to bring them some Amazon purchases (sheets, metal straws, sandals), as shipments have a way of failing to arrive. 'Pleasant hosts. While the beach is beautiful, the lack of AC & noise from the bar next door until mid-night Friday wasn't conducive to a good night's sleep. Next day we secured the room facing the ocean. I didn't go far Saturday—breakfast & lunch at Simple Beach Lodge. Right above the beach, table in the sand, made from pallets (with a little varnish--quite serviceable). 'Ventured in to the ocean for morning & afternoon body-surfing. For the finale of another spectacular sunset, dinner at Playa Roca Hotel right next door During some of the meal the music was obnoxiously loud & grating. We asked that it be turned down & requested it not blare 'til midnight, like the night before. 'Didn't really think they heard us, but mercifully the music wasn't nearly as loud Saturday night!

4:30 am, pre-dawn 1/14, Hacienda Amarilla del Mar, Playa Gigante Early to bed, early to rise. I'm surprised I have slept in as much as I have, going to bed ~ 9 pm most nights. While we have AC in our room here, squeaky bed frame makes for disturbed sleep. Deanna & I have been sharing the queen bed, so injured Mary can hopefully get more comfortable on the single bed. In León, 3 days ago, Mary, looking down to avoid sidewalk hazards, ran her head into a stationary wooden structure above the sidewalk, went down hard. She wrenched her fingers, hit her knee bonked her head on the pavement! Deanna was behind her, saw it happening, but couldn't reach Mary to stop her fall. Where was Guia Juan?! Escaping the sun, walking on the other side of the street. When I didn't see them, I figured they'd ducked in to a shop, when in reality, they were nursing Mary's wounds on the sidewalk! Mary is a trooper & the vacation goes on. Picking up the story on Day 3 at Las Peñitas Beach, we again spend a lot of time on the beach, out front of Simple Beach Lodge, swimming & body surfing from time to time. I avoid mid-day sun for extended periods. Eric from the SF Bay area met Deanna & hung out with us. He's on vacation from his gig—house/pet sitting for various Bay-area yuppies. Mary & Deanna went for a sunset horseback ride on the beach & we met for dinner at Barca de Oro, by the estuary—next to Juan Venado Reserve. We decided against a tour of the reserve—a long, narrow island. After talking with others who did visit the reserve, it sounded rather uninteresting. (Note: I took TWO cameras on the trip. Both did not do well. Pics so far are from my new phone. I expect to add some of Mary & Deann's best shots later.) Note on going to pic albums - Paste the picasaweb link, avoiding the dots, in to your browser. Hit "slideshow". To return here to blog, hit browser "Return" twice. Pics from Playa Las Peñitas -  https://picasaweb.google.com/102259876019428056805/LasPenitas

We had planned 4 nights in Las Peñitas, but after noisy Friday night & initially not having the room with the best view, we decided to shorten our stay to 3 nights. On line, Deanna found highly reviewed Hotel Flor de Sarta in León & we got a large room with 2 queen beds & AC for Monday night. We were greeted by Norveen, a most enthusiastic hotel front desk person. After getting settled (it's only half an hour taxi ride to León from Las Peñitas), we walked to the central plaza & cathedral. We bought tickets to climb to the cathedral roof, which has recently been repainted a brilliant white. Views of the city & volcanoes in the distance. If was on the walk back to the hotel that Mary had the fall. Pics of León - https://picasaweb.google.com/102259876019428056805/LeonNica

Next morning, Tue, 1/12, we climbed in to a Nica Tour van, destination Rivas, which is the jumping off point for Playa Gigante. When the van stopped for us there were lots of empty seats. We made the mistake of getting in the full back row, thinking it would remain uncrowded. But we kept stopping & adding passengers, including a 4th person in our back row—Juan P. From Argentina. He's been traveling 13 years, now age 32, He teaches aerial yoga, in Mexico & other places around the world. 'Interesting guy. And, we had another yoga instructor from Atlanta on the trip. She too has done aerial yoga. Go figure—something I had never heard of & an 11-passenger van in Nicaragua brings together two random practitioners!! 'Pleasant visiting while we made our way in to congested Managua, to the airport then on to Granada, before heading south to Rivas. The van, destination San Juan del Sur, dropped us along the Panamerican Highway in Rivas. A taxi was waiting—to take us the half hour to Playa Gigante. We were greeted by Linda, partner to Donaldo, owner of the hacienda. Their other home is in the Oakland Hills. Linda is here for a few-week stay. Donaldo had the hacienda built in the last couple of years & just opened for business spring of 2015. Attractive, but we found the price of $180/night steep, esp. given the squeaky bed frame! Donaldo is a very chatty Mexican-American, with many exploits in his past, including being a reporter & movie-maker. Dawn is breaking here on the roof-top bar, where hostel dwellers know to come for happy hour & watch the spectacular sunsets. We've had 2 here. Mid-day we return to Miss Margrit's in Granada, a home-coming we eagerly await. Pics of Playa Gigante - https://picasaweb.google.com/102259876019428056805/PlayaGigante

We moved in to the top floor Mirador (view) room at Miss Margrit's when we got back there Thursday, Beautiful views of Granada, sprinkled with churches, Lake Nicaragua beyond, Mombacho Volcano looming to the south. Lovely breezes. We went on a boat tour of the Isletas in Lake Nica at sunset, went to dinner at fancy Espressionista, where I made a scene about our 450 Cordoba bill for a beet hors d'oeuvre, a cheesecake & small dish of ice cream becoming about 550 Cordobas, when Mary asked for a receipt (adding tax). Lots of bombas (firecrackers) & church bells contributed to somewhat fitful sleep, as did early bedtimes. As always, owner Chris & ambiance at Miss Margrit's was wonderful. His current right-hand assistant is Keeley, a sweet, capable gal from the states. She also looks after a home in Granada that her parents have purchased. Pleasant fellow travelers staying at Miss M's. informative discussions at breakfast & other times of the day. We know our way around that part of Granada. Friday, 1/15: Taxi to Apoyo Lagoon, nice place in the shade, D & M spending 1-2 hours on inner tubes, my time in the water & sun much less. As remembered from 2013, pretty location, clean, perfect temperature water. From there, we made a short stop on the crater rim, then on to the market in Masaya. I couldn't get belt seller to come down to $17 on a belt. I did buy a whistle for Rowan, bracelets & wooden & ceramic birds for Juliet & a shirt for me. 'Couldn't find a comfortable—big enough--tank top. M & D gave snap bracelets & light sticks to kids. Then to Guitarras Zepeda in Masaya, where Mary bought a ukulele for Paul. Lovely wood. Hopefully Paul will like the sound quality, We took pics of the on-site workshop, guitar in production. Our ride for the entire outing was a pleasant taxista arranged by Chris or Keeley We learned the Mombacho Cigar Factory was closed on the weekend, so we returned to Doña Elba's, where we learned that Mombacho branched off from Doña Elba's & sells very similar cigars for almost twice the price, which made us content with our Doña Elba buys. Pics of Apoyo Lagoon & Granada
 https://picasaweb.google.com/102259876019428056805/Granada

Sunday morning Deanna caught a taxi to the airport, for her flights home. Mary & I shared a van w/ Joanne $ Doug, a couple staying at Miss Margrit's—we dropped them in Estelí before continuing on to Selva Negra, the German coffee farm north of Matagalpa. Center of the Nicaraguan cigar industry, Estelí and surrounds was unattractive. I did buy a few cigars form a hotel lobby, just because I was there. Matagalpa was more attractive, but not the lush mountainous enclave I expected. But Selva Negra was—up a steep 12-km road above Matagalpa, at 4,000 feet elevation, it is a cloud-forest retreat. Brisk, actually cold at night. Mary & I went on a tour of their organic coffee farm in the morning. Pics of Selva Negra - https://picasaweb.google.com/102259876019428056805/SelvaNegra

Mary met Bill in Oregon, where he lives when not tending to his coffee finca above Matagalpa. He picked us up at Selva Negra on Monday, took us to Maria's B&B in Matagalpa. Next morning he took us to his coffee finca, about an hour above Matagalpa, where we had lunch served y by his workers on the farm. They were in the midst of coffee harvest. Mary does direct-trade with him back home. Bill doesn't have the means to get certified organic yet, but is trying to observe environmentally friendly growing practices. Pics of Bill's finca  https://picasaweb.google.com/102259876019428056805/BillSFincaMatagalpa

We rented a car with driver (read: nice taxi), at Bill's suggestion, for the ride from Maria's B&B Matagalpa to Hotel Pyrámide in Managua. Mary had convinced me we didn't want to chance a 3-hour drive from Matagalpa to the airport on our departure day, even if our flight wasn't leaving until mid-day. I had found top ratings for Hotel Pyrámide on TripAdvisor. 'Pleasant neighborhood of Managua. Thank goodness I wasn't driving a rental car—trying to find places in Nicaragua, where almost all places have NO street address! Manfred, German owner of La Pyrámide, was very congenial. 'Gave Mary a lead on a masseuse he raved about. Hhe was able to get her both afternoon & morning treatments during our brief Managua stay. As noted earlier, my regular cameras weren't working well & I was just getting familiar with my new “smart” phone, so pics so far are limited. Check back for the best of Mary & Deanna's pics.