Oaxaca 2004

Subject: John from Oaxaca I: detenido en Puerto Angel, 11/14/04
Greetings from Lupin's tienda. Mid-afternoon Sunday, the sun is still so hot any movement results in profuse sweating (True, I am a sweathog).

'Caught the redeye to Dallas on Tuesday night, joining sister Mary there at 5 a.m. Í need to have a list of what to pack in the future so I don't forget my glucosamine, etc, flashlight, flip-flops, Eng-Spanish dictionary, 2nd bathing suit. But, I got the essentials--ticket, snorkeling gear, one bathing suit. Hopefully I'll find big enough other clothing to buy as needed.
Our Dallas and Mexico City connections were ample, so we didn't have to rush, but we did use up most of Wednesday traveling. After renting a VW bug at the Oaxaca airport, we made our way to a nice B&B for the night, joined at breakfast by Andrea, NPR San Francisco, here for a month to learn Spanish to better report on California.

Trip photo hightlights: http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/Oaxaca2004

The drive over the Sierra Madre del Sur was slow. Lots of potholes and topes (speedbumps), many unmarked and hard to see ('Sorry Mary), greeted by several trucks and buses rounding corners on our side of the road. We took a sideroad in search of an organic coffee finca. Fortunately we turned back upon being stopped by work on a landslide, or we likely wouldn't have gotten back to the "main" highway before dark.

Casa de Huespedes (guesthouse) Gundy y Tomas in Puerto (Pto) Angel had a room for us, complete with fan, mosquito netting and bath down the hall, considered private because no other guests used it. Gundy (Tomas died some years ago) attracts mostly Europeans, plus expatriate Americanos, some of whom rent by the month elsewhere and spend a good part of their time chatting with Gundy (German) and her guests. All (the cabbie today too) share amazement at our election results.

'Found the volleyball game the first afternoon, but the gals I played with last year have been pushed off the sand by the mas fuerte (stronger) guys. I was a bit of a liability to my team and joined Mary for margaritas after we were forced to the sideline by losing.

Friday we snorkeled a couple of places. The first was punctuated by my dive to get a shell. Flailing to return to the surface, I ran into a sea urchin's spines, 5 embedding in my thumb. Unsure if they might be poisonous, we consulted local fishermen and were told to put vela de cebo (animal fat candle) on the wounds. That was our first visit here to Lupin's tienda. He served as nurse, dripping the hot wax on my thumb. When I winced, he began dripping on his own arm, exclaiming; "¿Que es el problema?!"
We drove to the Estacahuite bluff above 3 pretty beaches for our afternoon snorkel. I wisely stopped before descending a slope so badly eroded we surely would have gotten stuck. I also thought to remove the plastic tag from the keys, thinking it might get water trapped in it. After snorkeling and climbing back to the car, it occurred to me that I should have taken the precaution to remove the plastic security key from the key ring as well--it fits in to a slot on the dash and enables the key. Sure enough--after being immersed for an hour in the ocean, it didn't work and we were unable to start the car. This saga could go on for pages. The short version: 2 days later, our 500 pesos/day (best exchange, 11.3 pesos to the dollar currently) rental bug is still sitting on the bluff. My hikes and cab rides back with the security key, after treatments with hair dryer and the hot Mexican sun all day, plus borrowing a look-alike security key from a local bug owner have had no positive resulto. This morning Mary caught a ride with a young German staying at Gundy`s, to not miss the beginning of our comfy week at Casa San Felipe in Oaxaca and meet our fellow guests found on Lonely Planet´s Thorntree chatroom. I remain in Pto. Angel, waiting for the Mexican equivalent to Fed-Ex to deliver the second set of keys, tomorrow, or Tuesday or...

I caught collectivos (trucks and cabs that fill up) to Mazunte today, snorkeling in search of sea turtles. Mazunte was a harvesting site for turtles until such was outlawed by the government in 1990. No luck finding turtles, but the snorkeling at both ends of the beach was fair. The coral is much less developed here than in the Carribbean, but the schools of fish are indeed awesome.

The sun is dropping. Time for one more trek to the bug, see if another day in the sun for the security key has done the trick, catching the sunset on the way back. Then probably dinner again at El Rincon, perched on the hill above the crashing waves. `Looks expensive, but fresh fish meals are 40-70 pesos (I've been doing the math. Your turn.).

Hasta pronto


SECOND POST, Thursday pm, 11/18
Saludos from Casa San Felipe, a lovely old colonial mansion now 8 comfortable studio timeshare units, 4 blocks from the Zocalo (Central plaza) in Oaxaca. I caught up with Mary here Monday afternoon. Sunday, after leaving the security key in the hot sun for a second day, I trudged out to the rental car once again, expecting the same negative outcome. To my delight, the key worked. I quickly drove in to town, expecting it was a fluke and wouldn't work twice. But, it´s been acting like it´s suppose to ever since. I tried to alert Alamo, the rental agency, that they no longer needed to send the extra set of keys, but didn't reach them, due to helper and/or phone system ineptness. Here in Oaxaca, I agreed to pay for the special delivery to the beach. They asked me to pay another $20 to mail the keys back, but it´s going to work out for Julie and Mark to be my couriers.After several un-named others all bailed on joining us, the second studio here at San Felipe was left open. Lonely Planet, the travel publisher for backpackers, has an online bulletin board by region, Thorntree (recommended before you travel). I put out word of the studio and Julie and Mark replied. They stayed here Sunday through Tuesday nights and became our regular companions, climbing in to the back seat of our VW bug, until we put them on a second class bus yesterday to go trekking in to the highlands NE of here. While I consider myself something of the international adventurer/risk taker, they make my exploits seem tame indeed. Julie is still recovering from wrenching her knee, which may have saved her life, arresting her fall during their ascent of Wuini Wainu (sp?) by moonlight, the last Incan pinnacle stronghold seen in the background of the familiar Machu Pichu panorama. I recall how precarious that climb was during the day.We also made fast friends with Eliana, a Brazilian transplant to Queens. Traveling by herself, she too squeezed in to our back seat. She opens up for the Wall Street Journal. Uncharacteristically she slept in on 9/11/01. Her usual habit was to catch the subway early. Before starting work at the Financial Trade Center, she often browsed in a bookstore under the World Trade Center next door. Late that day, her train was stopped just before the twin towers. She spent the day literally running at times, mostly walking, eventually back up to 42nd Street before finding a working train to take her back to Queens. She was covered in white ash after the collapse of the first tower. On Tuesday, the troop of 5 took in Monte Alban, Zapotec capitol on a mountaintop just outside Oaxaca. We then found our way through traffic-clogged, incessantly toped (speed-bumped) streets to Arrizola, the village where most wood figurines are made, visiting several in-home shops. Wednesday, after sending Mark and Julie off on their trek, Mary and I began serious shopping in Teotitlan del Valle, center of textile weaving. Mary caught sight of a small cemetery, still filled with flowers from the recent Day of the Dead. Mary struck up a conversation with Antonio, an English-speaking Zapotec Indian. He explained that the afternoon was marked by a ceremony for a 12-year-old tragically killed by a drunk's unintended discharge of a gun last week. We were invited to partake of mescal and cerveza, then drive Antonio and other family members to their home, where we were introduced to their looms and weavings. Lacking money (left in the safe back in the hotel) we promised to return today to buy a couple of special rugs, with softer colors made naturally from plants and insects. We proceeded to make multiple purchases from several street vendors in Teotitlan ('Tougher to find gifts for guys). Before driving back in to Oaxaca, we visited a mescal distillery.I turned in the rental car this afternoon. Driving in this city--in reality, most of this country--is maddening. The price of a cab to the airport Saturday will be a fraction of the daily car rental. I have yet to check out several of the handicraft shops here in Oaxaca where I enjoyed bartering last year. Mary still hasn't been to the museum. Saturday morning and the flights home will soon be here.

Oaxaca 2004, the closing chapter, 11/22

It's memories now. And my shopping scores, for Party door prizes. 'Took my army duffel empty. 'Brought it back stuffed, as well as a full cloth bag of many colors purchased in the market. This by a guy whose eyes glaze over just walking in to a department store around here.

On Friday Mary and I were delighted by the organic farmers' market in Oaxaca (For those going there, it's open Fridays and Saturdays, now on Garcia Vigil, a block west and a couple of blocks north of the museum/Iglesia de St. Domingo). A mix of Mexican and gringo vendors, including a guy selling his own chocolate. He left the States in 1969 (read draft dodger) and is happy to stay away. Great products (breads, meats, coffee, homemade jewelry), a brass band, cordial sellers and shoppers. We proceeded to the city food and craft markets, content to barter prices down some, knowing there was still some profit in the "ultimos precios". Many--hand-woven things, bark paintings, etc.--requiring many hours of painstaking labor.

Oaxaca is famous for its cuisine in general and mole in particular, a chocolate-based sauce. We enjoyed several restaurants and risked a few street purchases, like the huge lime-soaked fruit cups. For breakfast, we found a panaderia (bakery) near Casa San Felipe. Big tin platter and tongs in hand, we splurged, snagging several from dozens of baked choices, the tally coming to $2-$3. And, true to form, I returned home 5 pounds lighter, and only a brush with tourista.

Besides Mezcal, we bought a bottle of aged Cuban rum, believing the duty-free sales person's assurance that with a Mexican sales slip there would be no problema with customs. Wrong. Likewise with the Cuban cigars. I considered joking about protocol, if crossing the border the other direction, of slipping them a bill to look the other way. 'Good thing I bit my tongue. 'Paranoid thought that they somehow knew we are Dubya haters. I heard mention of Bush Airport. Aren't you suppose to wait 'til someone dies to immortalize them?!

Mary and I parted in Dallas. Her last leg was to Portland. My 3.5-hour flight to Seattle shortened by the companionship of J Poehlman, a pleasant former Boeing interior decorator turned photographer in his retirement years. He submits his slides to magazines and has had success, including Oregon Coast Magazine. My animated conversation about our Beverly Beach cottage, Whistler and timeshare exchange opportunities was interrupted by the lady in front of us. I expected she was asking for an opportunity to rent from me. In fact, she asked if I could speak softer! 'Didn't dampen my enthusiasm much and she did later turn again and chat with us about her recent traveling in Spain and France.

For next year, I'm already thinking about doing some things differently. When I started planning this trip, I expected to get no further than Mexico City, Distrito Federal (DF) with my American Airlines frequent flyer awards. I was delighted when the American agent informed me an affiliation with Mexicana could get us all the way to Oaxaca at no extra cost. Now, I have figured out it's possible to do an "open jaw" (land one place, leave from another) that will reduce the long trip over the Sierra Made del Sur to one way, rather than round trip: fly from DF to Huatulco, on the coast near Puerto Angel and fly back from Oaxaca. The only thing about this trip that wasn't a "deal" was the car rental, about $45/day for the cheapy bug. Mary and I agreed we could have done without it.

So, it's back to the gray Northwest, to property management* and eventual resumption of tax return preparation. But, getting ready for Lowry Rentals Party III comes first!

John

*I need to find an effective advertising vehicle for Pop's Cottage--the Oregon Coast bluff cottage. With travels this fall, I haven't done a good job of keeping it occupied, in spite of offering short-notice discounts. And, then there's rates to family & friends. Check it out--it's a great winter retreat--www.lowryrentals.com.

China & Tibet 2004

Sept. 8 - 22, 2004

Subject: John's China-Tibet Journey, Log I
Greeting from the business center at Howard Johnson's 5 Star hotel in Ti'an, gateway to the Terra-Cotta warriors. It's been a packed first 6 days. (I skipped yet another huge family-style meal to send this to you--unlike MY trips, where I lose weight, I'll be lucky to return home with less than an extra 10 lbs!)
A few months ago I met Larry and Maria at a mutual friend's house. They enthusiastically spoke of their upcoming trip to China and Tibet with Madi. Since seeing a photo of Lhasa as a boy I've wanted to visit Tibet. With little hesitation I signed on. As did Lucy. As did neighbor, Dianne. 'Never planned so little for a trip. In part because I've been so slammed by stuff at home, but also because it's a tour--I'm a member of the group. Too much knowledge would make me want to stray ('Been given orders: no "Free Tibet" T shirts, get meds for high altitude, never mind I had no problems high in the Andes more than half a lifetime ago...).
We flew from Sea-Tac last Wednesday, then on to Shanghai, never seeing the sun set but losing a day. 'Not the swarthy city of legend, but a sparkling megalopolis of 16 million, with staggering transformation, night skyline of skyscrapers sprinkled with color.
Temples, museums and shopping--cornerstones of Madi tours (perhaps more on Madi later, an American born "Tibetan physician" with healing skills at age 2). Most of our large group of 40 have some penchant for the supernatural. Nice, interesting people. We got off to a running start at the silk rug factory in Shanghai.
Night 3 in Guilin. While other areas of China probably provide scenery for those paintings of layered hills, Guilin has thousands of steep crags jutting up in to the sky. After frowning on Lucy's interest in a pricey painting at a gallery, I scored several landscapes that night on the street, meeting the alleged art "professor" in person. Day 4 we floated the River Li, photogenic vistas with each bend in the river. Ended up at Yangshou for the night.
Yesterday morning we flew here to Ti'an, birthplace of many Chinese dynasties, along a fertile tributary of the Yellow River. Museum yesterday, jade factory and Terra-Cotta warriors today. 'Time to sneak out to the walled city and see what better deals I can find.
One more day before Tibet...
John

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/ChinaTibetSelect

John's China-Tibet Journey, Log II
Greetings from Lhasa, Tibet. Picking up from my first report, we left Ti'an Thursday morning, flying to Chengdu, China. On the way to the airport Lucy elected to check out my digital camera. She got in to the erase menu. I asked her to stop. She didn't. ALL my photos vanished! While she has her own camera and lots of pictures, all my special compositions are not to be shared. I should get concessions from her for a LONG time.
In Chengdu we visited a Taoist temple and allowed to participate in a ceremony. Most everyone in our group attempted to kneel and stand following the priests' movements. After a couple of ups and downs I decided to do what the visiting Chinese did: stay standing, looking. Except they were bemusedly looking at our group and I was looking at them looking at us. After sharing my observations with a couple of fellow travelers (We have some work to do on synchronized ceremonial kneeling, but for spectator interest we're already there) I realized they didn't appreciate my attempt at humor. Most reported being very moved by the experience. Before departing the temple, Madi took us to a wall with 3 large Chinese raised figures, representing health, wealth and happiness. We were encouraged, from about 30 feet away, to close our eyes, spin 3 times and walk toward the wall, letting our intuitiveness take us to one of the raised figures (there was blank wall between the figures). Lucy succeeded--reached out and touched "wealth". Not having been in the spirit of the ceremony, I hesitated, then tried. Rather than head toward the wall, I meandered off at about a 60 degree angle to the left and would have fallen in to a very large, smoking incense pot if not intercepted.
Friday, after another big breakfast we headed for the airport and the flight to Tibet. (I've climbed on 2 scales in hotel rooms and been amazed that I have not gained weight. Several group members have been fairly ill, mostly stomach stuff. I've felt fine, aside from tired at times. All stops in China were quite humid.) The flight over the Himalayas was splendid. Lots of clouds but also many clearings. Many small, gem-like lakes, some blue, others gray-green. In the valleys there were sparse settlements, some clinging to hillsides.
On arrival at the Lhasa airport it was warm at mid-day, but the air was wonderfully fresh (almost 12,000' elevation). We stopped at a village, handed out trinkets we were encouraged to bring. Very photogenic, friendly people (Lucy's forbidden to touch my camera from now on!). After arriving at the Lhasa Hotel, we proceeded to Larry and Maria's Tibetan marriage, filmed by the local tv station.
Friday, our first full day in Lhasa, we first visited Potala Palace, winter home of the Dalai Lamas. A picture of the huge palace perched on a hillside high above the city is the image I have from childhood that has drawn me to Tibet. At lunch I decided to go find a place to download our pictures to cds, freeing up our digital cards. I intended to catch up with the group at the next destination, a temple, but finding the shop to burn the cds proved more time-consuming that I anticipated. It's not like traveling in Latin America, where, even if I didn't speak Spanish, I could get some idea across. Not many Tibetans understand any English nor my nonverbal cues. But I finally made it to the camera shop, decided it was too late to catch the group in the temple, went back to the lunch site to find no bus. I went in to ask restaurant staff if I could hire a rickshaw to take me back to the hotel. They said no, too far, take a cab or bus. Then a gal volunteered she was getting off in 5 minutes and was going my way. At first I thought she had her own car. In fact, she was taking the bus going by our hotel and told me where to get off.
Consistently pleasant people, including the street vendors. I've been making lots of purchases--singing bowls, pendants, an old lock. Neighboring vendors almost tear me apart after watching me complete a purchase. While I usually barter things down to less than half of asking price, obviously I'm paying enough that others want similar negotiations with me.
Today we visited a monastery high up on a mountain top. Dusty, switchback road. Beautiful day. We were given shawls and allowed to walk between all the rows of about 250 chanting monks in a darkened, rug-walled ceremonial hall. I made eye contact with many monks. They didn't seem all that other-worldly. It was a nice experience.
Tomorrow we visit another monastery and a rug factory. I'm going to have to buy a bag, to put all my "deals" in. The following morning is the long flight to Beijing, where we spend only 2 nights before the really long flight home.

John's China-Tibet Journey, 3rd and final episode
Sunday we visited another monastery, on a hillside near Lhasa. A Buddha statue reportedly answers questions. I woke up that morning with the looming deadline for our 2003 income tax return (extended to October 15) on my mind. So, the question that came to mind: "Will the IRS audit me in the next 5 years?" I got no answer, not even a glimmer. Next we participated in another ceremony with monks. Fewer than the day before, but also an ensemble of horns and percussion. Both chanting and playing was quite pleasant.
Sunday afternoon Lucy and I skipped group activities to return to a Lhasa market. 'Didn't get a prayer rug that the merchant wouldn't part with for what we offered. We did buy some prayer wheels, thangkas (Buddhist paintings) and T-shirts.
Monday morning prior to leaving for the airport I decided I had time to get a haircut. I stepped in to a barber shop in the city, was escorted to a chair, where a gal commenced to shampoo and massage my head. After several minutes of massage, I made a motion with my fingers, beginning to worry she thought I came in only for a scalp massage. After a rinse, I was led to another chair where a guy cut my hair. Initially he was only going to take off a little. I repeatedly gestured for shorter, "like a monk". Shorter I got. While I'm unsure that I saw "beyond the veil" as Madi promised in her promo on the trip, I leave Tibet manifestly changed in outward appearance! When I went to pay, the cashier held up 2 fingers. I disappointedly assumed she wanted 200 yuen, which would be almost $20. Noting my expression, she showed me a 20 yuen bill--with 10 yuen tips to both masseuse and barber, I still spend less than $4.
Much of yesterday was spent at airports and in the air. 'Arrived in Beijing about 10 p.m. 'Put Lucy to bed after a late dinner and went looking for email. This part of Beijing feels very cosmopolitan. The business center at the hotel was closed. When open their rate is 2 yuen/minute. That works out to almost $15/hour! Rip off. I asked at the desk and was told there was an open e cafe about 10 minutes away. Walked about that far, asked, was told the place upstairs was closed. 'Approached by a rickshaw driver--bike with a seat for 2 small people or me. He peddled me about 5 minutes to this place. Rate here: 3 yuen per HOUR! That's 40 times cheaper than the hotel business center. As I climbed in to the rickshaw I asked how much. I thought he said "10". I said: "For 10, okay". About 6 blocks later, he asked for 100 yuen! I said no way, told him we agreed on 10. He refused my 10. I eventually offered 15. He demanded 20. I told him take the 15 or nothing and he took the 15. It was a 20 minute walk back to the hotel. Turn right just past the KFC. So, my 3 yuen hour here at stall 25 in the email cafe packed with about 50 Chinese (either side of me playing video games) really cost me 18 yuen, which would get me 9 minutes at the hotel business center. I'm back again at this email site, for this final chronicle. Both evenings have been fresh, cool, not very humid--nice for walking. 'Feels safe here, although last night I first stopped in at a hotel, thinking it might be the open email site, and the desk guy wasn't friendly--barked in response to my English questioning.
Today was busy. We stopped at a cloisonné workshop and store, then on to the Great Wall. Only 3 of us made it to the top and I was the senior of the group. Now I know why athletes train at high altitudes. I felt strong, although, as always, I worked up a profuse sweat. After lunch it was on to the Forbidden City. The roof lines were impressive, but we didn't have much access to interiors. Next we rode in rickshaws to a teahouse, then on to our final dinner. Our guide got us a special rate on Beijing 2008 (Olympics) hats and T-shirts. We continued to shop on the way back to the hotel and at the hotel, until I scooted off to walk to this email spot.
A little while ago I thought I'd lost this composition. Before I do, I'm going to send it. Hopefully I'll take time after arriving home to reflect on the trip in a summing-up email.
John


China-Tibet Summary

On return to Willamette High School after my NSF summer school at NM Highlands U, the principal asked me what I liked best. Without hesitation, I answered: "The people". This Madi Nolan Pacific Delight Tour group was special. All of us so unique, choosing to come along for our own so right reasons. My exposure to the spiritual openness of the others was too brief to dislodge me from my pragmatic shelf. I did get a kick from finding a "ghost image" in one of my photos (Madi blessed cameras, promising they could expose spirits from other dimensions).

One of the strongest arguments timeshare sellers make: If you don't pamper yourself, buy from us and you'll be sure to treat yourself to the luxury you deserve. I love designing my own vacations. While I enjoy staying in nicer places at times, "5-star" is not in my repertoire. The hotels, their air conditioning and their dining fares were sumptuous. Amazingly, I didn't gain weight, even prior to coming down with this respiratory crud on the flight home.

I could have skipped, besides numerous meals, the lengthy stops at pricey tourist show rooms, leaving more time to barter with street vendors (True, missing some of the high-end museum quality stuff). There were opportunities to meander alone, meet Chinese and Tibetans, but cultural immersion is diminished with such a busy group schedule.

So, does this tour impact my back-burner idea of being a Latin American outside travel agent? Too soon to say. Favorite, familiar haunts do beckon. Considered itineraries: 1) The Ecuadorian Sierra and Upper Amazon; 2) Highland markets of Guatemala, Mayan ruins and Honduran Bay Islands; and 3) Oaxaca's markets, ruins and the Mexican Pacific Coast. Years ago I worked with a social worker turned travel agent. It occurred to me skills for both professions include ability to match clients to fitting opportunities. Then again, caretaking some group members could begin to feel like I never retired from social work! There are so many other parts of the world to experience for the first time. Then again, if enough of you clamor for me to take you to one or all of the above, I will consider it, at an enticing fee…

Meanwhile, enough: I've got to get my income tax done.

John