Oaxaca 2004

Subject: John from Oaxaca I: detenido en Puerto Angel, 11/14/04
Greetings from Lupin's tienda. Mid-afternoon Sunday, the sun is still so hot any movement results in profuse sweating (True, I am a sweathog).

'Caught the redeye to Dallas on Tuesday night, joining sister Mary there at 5 a.m. Í need to have a list of what to pack in the future so I don't forget my glucosamine, etc, flashlight, flip-flops, Eng-Spanish dictionary, 2nd bathing suit. But, I got the essentials--ticket, snorkeling gear, one bathing suit. Hopefully I'll find big enough other clothing to buy as needed.
Our Dallas and Mexico City connections were ample, so we didn't have to rush, but we did use up most of Wednesday traveling. After renting a VW bug at the Oaxaca airport, we made our way to a nice B&B for the night, joined at breakfast by Andrea, NPR San Francisco, here for a month to learn Spanish to better report on California.

Trip photo hightlights: http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/Oaxaca2004

The drive over the Sierra Madre del Sur was slow. Lots of potholes and topes (speedbumps), many unmarked and hard to see ('Sorry Mary), greeted by several trucks and buses rounding corners on our side of the road. We took a sideroad in search of an organic coffee finca. Fortunately we turned back upon being stopped by work on a landslide, or we likely wouldn't have gotten back to the "main" highway before dark.

Casa de Huespedes (guesthouse) Gundy y Tomas in Puerto (Pto) Angel had a room for us, complete with fan, mosquito netting and bath down the hall, considered private because no other guests used it. Gundy (Tomas died some years ago) attracts mostly Europeans, plus expatriate Americanos, some of whom rent by the month elsewhere and spend a good part of their time chatting with Gundy (German) and her guests. All (the cabbie today too) share amazement at our election results.

'Found the volleyball game the first afternoon, but the gals I played with last year have been pushed off the sand by the mas fuerte (stronger) guys. I was a bit of a liability to my team and joined Mary for margaritas after we were forced to the sideline by losing.

Friday we snorkeled a couple of places. The first was punctuated by my dive to get a shell. Flailing to return to the surface, I ran into a sea urchin's spines, 5 embedding in my thumb. Unsure if they might be poisonous, we consulted local fishermen and were told to put vela de cebo (animal fat candle) on the wounds. That was our first visit here to Lupin's tienda. He served as nurse, dripping the hot wax on my thumb. When I winced, he began dripping on his own arm, exclaiming; "¿Que es el problema?!"
We drove to the Estacahuite bluff above 3 pretty beaches for our afternoon snorkel. I wisely stopped before descending a slope so badly eroded we surely would have gotten stuck. I also thought to remove the plastic tag from the keys, thinking it might get water trapped in it. After snorkeling and climbing back to the car, it occurred to me that I should have taken the precaution to remove the plastic security key from the key ring as well--it fits in to a slot on the dash and enables the key. Sure enough--after being immersed for an hour in the ocean, it didn't work and we were unable to start the car. This saga could go on for pages. The short version: 2 days later, our 500 pesos/day (best exchange, 11.3 pesos to the dollar currently) rental bug is still sitting on the bluff. My hikes and cab rides back with the security key, after treatments with hair dryer and the hot Mexican sun all day, plus borrowing a look-alike security key from a local bug owner have had no positive resulto. This morning Mary caught a ride with a young German staying at Gundy`s, to not miss the beginning of our comfy week at Casa San Felipe in Oaxaca and meet our fellow guests found on Lonely Planet´s Thorntree chatroom. I remain in Pto. Angel, waiting for the Mexican equivalent to Fed-Ex to deliver the second set of keys, tomorrow, or Tuesday or...

I caught collectivos (trucks and cabs that fill up) to Mazunte today, snorkeling in search of sea turtles. Mazunte was a harvesting site for turtles until such was outlawed by the government in 1990. No luck finding turtles, but the snorkeling at both ends of the beach was fair. The coral is much less developed here than in the Carribbean, but the schools of fish are indeed awesome.

The sun is dropping. Time for one more trek to the bug, see if another day in the sun for the security key has done the trick, catching the sunset on the way back. Then probably dinner again at El Rincon, perched on the hill above the crashing waves. `Looks expensive, but fresh fish meals are 40-70 pesos (I've been doing the math. Your turn.).

Hasta pronto


SECOND POST, Thursday pm, 11/18
Saludos from Casa San Felipe, a lovely old colonial mansion now 8 comfortable studio timeshare units, 4 blocks from the Zocalo (Central plaza) in Oaxaca. I caught up with Mary here Monday afternoon. Sunday, after leaving the security key in the hot sun for a second day, I trudged out to the rental car once again, expecting the same negative outcome. To my delight, the key worked. I quickly drove in to town, expecting it was a fluke and wouldn't work twice. But, it´s been acting like it´s suppose to ever since. I tried to alert Alamo, the rental agency, that they no longer needed to send the extra set of keys, but didn't reach them, due to helper and/or phone system ineptness. Here in Oaxaca, I agreed to pay for the special delivery to the beach. They asked me to pay another $20 to mail the keys back, but it´s going to work out for Julie and Mark to be my couriers.After several un-named others all bailed on joining us, the second studio here at San Felipe was left open. Lonely Planet, the travel publisher for backpackers, has an online bulletin board by region, Thorntree (recommended before you travel). I put out word of the studio and Julie and Mark replied. They stayed here Sunday through Tuesday nights and became our regular companions, climbing in to the back seat of our VW bug, until we put them on a second class bus yesterday to go trekking in to the highlands NE of here. While I consider myself something of the international adventurer/risk taker, they make my exploits seem tame indeed. Julie is still recovering from wrenching her knee, which may have saved her life, arresting her fall during their ascent of Wuini Wainu (sp?) by moonlight, the last Incan pinnacle stronghold seen in the background of the familiar Machu Pichu panorama. I recall how precarious that climb was during the day.We also made fast friends with Eliana, a Brazilian transplant to Queens. Traveling by herself, she too squeezed in to our back seat. She opens up for the Wall Street Journal. Uncharacteristically she slept in on 9/11/01. Her usual habit was to catch the subway early. Before starting work at the Financial Trade Center, she often browsed in a bookstore under the World Trade Center next door. Late that day, her train was stopped just before the twin towers. She spent the day literally running at times, mostly walking, eventually back up to 42nd Street before finding a working train to take her back to Queens. She was covered in white ash after the collapse of the first tower. On Tuesday, the troop of 5 took in Monte Alban, Zapotec capitol on a mountaintop just outside Oaxaca. We then found our way through traffic-clogged, incessantly toped (speed-bumped) streets to Arrizola, the village where most wood figurines are made, visiting several in-home shops. Wednesday, after sending Mark and Julie off on their trek, Mary and I began serious shopping in Teotitlan del Valle, center of textile weaving. Mary caught sight of a small cemetery, still filled with flowers from the recent Day of the Dead. Mary struck up a conversation with Antonio, an English-speaking Zapotec Indian. He explained that the afternoon was marked by a ceremony for a 12-year-old tragically killed by a drunk's unintended discharge of a gun last week. We were invited to partake of mescal and cerveza, then drive Antonio and other family members to their home, where we were introduced to their looms and weavings. Lacking money (left in the safe back in the hotel) we promised to return today to buy a couple of special rugs, with softer colors made naturally from plants and insects. We proceeded to make multiple purchases from several street vendors in Teotitlan ('Tougher to find gifts for guys). Before driving back in to Oaxaca, we visited a mescal distillery.I turned in the rental car this afternoon. Driving in this city--in reality, most of this country--is maddening. The price of a cab to the airport Saturday will be a fraction of the daily car rental. I have yet to check out several of the handicraft shops here in Oaxaca where I enjoyed bartering last year. Mary still hasn't been to the museum. Saturday morning and the flights home will soon be here.

Oaxaca 2004, the closing chapter, 11/22

It's memories now. And my shopping scores, for Party door prizes. 'Took my army duffel empty. 'Brought it back stuffed, as well as a full cloth bag of many colors purchased in the market. This by a guy whose eyes glaze over just walking in to a department store around here.

On Friday Mary and I were delighted by the organic farmers' market in Oaxaca (For those going there, it's open Fridays and Saturdays, now on Garcia Vigil, a block west and a couple of blocks north of the museum/Iglesia de St. Domingo). A mix of Mexican and gringo vendors, including a guy selling his own chocolate. He left the States in 1969 (read draft dodger) and is happy to stay away. Great products (breads, meats, coffee, homemade jewelry), a brass band, cordial sellers and shoppers. We proceeded to the city food and craft markets, content to barter prices down some, knowing there was still some profit in the "ultimos precios". Many--hand-woven things, bark paintings, etc.--requiring many hours of painstaking labor.

Oaxaca is famous for its cuisine in general and mole in particular, a chocolate-based sauce. We enjoyed several restaurants and risked a few street purchases, like the huge lime-soaked fruit cups. For breakfast, we found a panaderia (bakery) near Casa San Felipe. Big tin platter and tongs in hand, we splurged, snagging several from dozens of baked choices, the tally coming to $2-$3. And, true to form, I returned home 5 pounds lighter, and only a brush with tourista.

Besides Mezcal, we bought a bottle of aged Cuban rum, believing the duty-free sales person's assurance that with a Mexican sales slip there would be no problema with customs. Wrong. Likewise with the Cuban cigars. I considered joking about protocol, if crossing the border the other direction, of slipping them a bill to look the other way. 'Good thing I bit my tongue. 'Paranoid thought that they somehow knew we are Dubya haters. I heard mention of Bush Airport. Aren't you suppose to wait 'til someone dies to immortalize them?!

Mary and I parted in Dallas. Her last leg was to Portland. My 3.5-hour flight to Seattle shortened by the companionship of J Poehlman, a pleasant former Boeing interior decorator turned photographer in his retirement years. He submits his slides to magazines and has had success, including Oregon Coast Magazine. My animated conversation about our Beverly Beach cottage, Whistler and timeshare exchange opportunities was interrupted by the lady in front of us. I expected she was asking for an opportunity to rent from me. In fact, she asked if I could speak softer! 'Didn't dampen my enthusiasm much and she did later turn again and chat with us about her recent traveling in Spain and France.

For next year, I'm already thinking about doing some things differently. When I started planning this trip, I expected to get no further than Mexico City, Distrito Federal (DF) with my American Airlines frequent flyer awards. I was delighted when the American agent informed me an affiliation with Mexicana could get us all the way to Oaxaca at no extra cost. Now, I have figured out it's possible to do an "open jaw" (land one place, leave from another) that will reduce the long trip over the Sierra Made del Sur to one way, rather than round trip: fly from DF to Huatulco, on the coast near Puerto Angel and fly back from Oaxaca. The only thing about this trip that wasn't a "deal" was the car rental, about $45/day for the cheapy bug. Mary and I agreed we could have done without it.

So, it's back to the gray Northwest, to property management* and eventual resumption of tax return preparation. But, getting ready for Lowry Rentals Party III comes first!

John

*I need to find an effective advertising vehicle for Pop's Cottage--the Oregon Coast bluff cottage. With travels this fall, I haven't done a good job of keeping it occupied, in spite of offering short-notice discounts. And, then there's rates to family & friends. Check it out--it's a great winter retreat--www.lowryrentals.com.

China & Tibet 2004

Sept. 8 - 22, 2004

Subject: John's China-Tibet Journey, Log I
Greeting from the business center at Howard Johnson's 5 Star hotel in Ti'an, gateway to the Terra-Cotta warriors. It's been a packed first 6 days. (I skipped yet another huge family-style meal to send this to you--unlike MY trips, where I lose weight, I'll be lucky to return home with less than an extra 10 lbs!)
A few months ago I met Larry and Maria at a mutual friend's house. They enthusiastically spoke of their upcoming trip to China and Tibet with Madi. Since seeing a photo of Lhasa as a boy I've wanted to visit Tibet. With little hesitation I signed on. As did Lucy. As did neighbor, Dianne. 'Never planned so little for a trip. In part because I've been so slammed by stuff at home, but also because it's a tour--I'm a member of the group. Too much knowledge would make me want to stray ('Been given orders: no "Free Tibet" T shirts, get meds for high altitude, never mind I had no problems high in the Andes more than half a lifetime ago...).
We flew from Sea-Tac last Wednesday, then on to Shanghai, never seeing the sun set but losing a day. 'Not the swarthy city of legend, but a sparkling megalopolis of 16 million, with staggering transformation, night skyline of skyscrapers sprinkled with color.
Temples, museums and shopping--cornerstones of Madi tours (perhaps more on Madi later, an American born "Tibetan physician" with healing skills at age 2). Most of our large group of 40 have some penchant for the supernatural. Nice, interesting people. We got off to a running start at the silk rug factory in Shanghai.
Night 3 in Guilin. While other areas of China probably provide scenery for those paintings of layered hills, Guilin has thousands of steep crags jutting up in to the sky. After frowning on Lucy's interest in a pricey painting at a gallery, I scored several landscapes that night on the street, meeting the alleged art "professor" in person. Day 4 we floated the River Li, photogenic vistas with each bend in the river. Ended up at Yangshou for the night.
Yesterday morning we flew here to Ti'an, birthplace of many Chinese dynasties, along a fertile tributary of the Yellow River. Museum yesterday, jade factory and Terra-Cotta warriors today. 'Time to sneak out to the walled city and see what better deals I can find.
One more day before Tibet...
John

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/ChinaTibetSelect

John's China-Tibet Journey, Log II
Greetings from Lhasa, Tibet. Picking up from my first report, we left Ti'an Thursday morning, flying to Chengdu, China. On the way to the airport Lucy elected to check out my digital camera. She got in to the erase menu. I asked her to stop. She didn't. ALL my photos vanished! While she has her own camera and lots of pictures, all my special compositions are not to be shared. I should get concessions from her for a LONG time.
In Chengdu we visited a Taoist temple and allowed to participate in a ceremony. Most everyone in our group attempted to kneel and stand following the priests' movements. After a couple of ups and downs I decided to do what the visiting Chinese did: stay standing, looking. Except they were bemusedly looking at our group and I was looking at them looking at us. After sharing my observations with a couple of fellow travelers (We have some work to do on synchronized ceremonial kneeling, but for spectator interest we're already there) I realized they didn't appreciate my attempt at humor. Most reported being very moved by the experience. Before departing the temple, Madi took us to a wall with 3 large Chinese raised figures, representing health, wealth and happiness. We were encouraged, from about 30 feet away, to close our eyes, spin 3 times and walk toward the wall, letting our intuitiveness take us to one of the raised figures (there was blank wall between the figures). Lucy succeeded--reached out and touched "wealth". Not having been in the spirit of the ceremony, I hesitated, then tried. Rather than head toward the wall, I meandered off at about a 60 degree angle to the left and would have fallen in to a very large, smoking incense pot if not intercepted.
Friday, after another big breakfast we headed for the airport and the flight to Tibet. (I've climbed on 2 scales in hotel rooms and been amazed that I have not gained weight. Several group members have been fairly ill, mostly stomach stuff. I've felt fine, aside from tired at times. All stops in China were quite humid.) The flight over the Himalayas was splendid. Lots of clouds but also many clearings. Many small, gem-like lakes, some blue, others gray-green. In the valleys there were sparse settlements, some clinging to hillsides.
On arrival at the Lhasa airport it was warm at mid-day, but the air was wonderfully fresh (almost 12,000' elevation). We stopped at a village, handed out trinkets we were encouraged to bring. Very photogenic, friendly people (Lucy's forbidden to touch my camera from now on!). After arriving at the Lhasa Hotel, we proceeded to Larry and Maria's Tibetan marriage, filmed by the local tv station.
Friday, our first full day in Lhasa, we first visited Potala Palace, winter home of the Dalai Lamas. A picture of the huge palace perched on a hillside high above the city is the image I have from childhood that has drawn me to Tibet. At lunch I decided to go find a place to download our pictures to cds, freeing up our digital cards. I intended to catch up with the group at the next destination, a temple, but finding the shop to burn the cds proved more time-consuming that I anticipated. It's not like traveling in Latin America, where, even if I didn't speak Spanish, I could get some idea across. Not many Tibetans understand any English nor my nonverbal cues. But I finally made it to the camera shop, decided it was too late to catch the group in the temple, went back to the lunch site to find no bus. I went in to ask restaurant staff if I could hire a rickshaw to take me back to the hotel. They said no, too far, take a cab or bus. Then a gal volunteered she was getting off in 5 minutes and was going my way. At first I thought she had her own car. In fact, she was taking the bus going by our hotel and told me where to get off.
Consistently pleasant people, including the street vendors. I've been making lots of purchases--singing bowls, pendants, an old lock. Neighboring vendors almost tear me apart after watching me complete a purchase. While I usually barter things down to less than half of asking price, obviously I'm paying enough that others want similar negotiations with me.
Today we visited a monastery high up on a mountain top. Dusty, switchback road. Beautiful day. We were given shawls and allowed to walk between all the rows of about 250 chanting monks in a darkened, rug-walled ceremonial hall. I made eye contact with many monks. They didn't seem all that other-worldly. It was a nice experience.
Tomorrow we visit another monastery and a rug factory. I'm going to have to buy a bag, to put all my "deals" in. The following morning is the long flight to Beijing, where we spend only 2 nights before the really long flight home.

John's China-Tibet Journey, 3rd and final episode
Sunday we visited another monastery, on a hillside near Lhasa. A Buddha statue reportedly answers questions. I woke up that morning with the looming deadline for our 2003 income tax return (extended to October 15) on my mind. So, the question that came to mind: "Will the IRS audit me in the next 5 years?" I got no answer, not even a glimmer. Next we participated in another ceremony with monks. Fewer than the day before, but also an ensemble of horns and percussion. Both chanting and playing was quite pleasant.
Sunday afternoon Lucy and I skipped group activities to return to a Lhasa market. 'Didn't get a prayer rug that the merchant wouldn't part with for what we offered. We did buy some prayer wheels, thangkas (Buddhist paintings) and T-shirts.
Monday morning prior to leaving for the airport I decided I had time to get a haircut. I stepped in to a barber shop in the city, was escorted to a chair, where a gal commenced to shampoo and massage my head. After several minutes of massage, I made a motion with my fingers, beginning to worry she thought I came in only for a scalp massage. After a rinse, I was led to another chair where a guy cut my hair. Initially he was only going to take off a little. I repeatedly gestured for shorter, "like a monk". Shorter I got. While I'm unsure that I saw "beyond the veil" as Madi promised in her promo on the trip, I leave Tibet manifestly changed in outward appearance! When I went to pay, the cashier held up 2 fingers. I disappointedly assumed she wanted 200 yuen, which would be almost $20. Noting my expression, she showed me a 20 yuen bill--with 10 yuen tips to both masseuse and barber, I still spend less than $4.
Much of yesterday was spent at airports and in the air. 'Arrived in Beijing about 10 p.m. 'Put Lucy to bed after a late dinner and went looking for email. This part of Beijing feels very cosmopolitan. The business center at the hotel was closed. When open their rate is 2 yuen/minute. That works out to almost $15/hour! Rip off. I asked at the desk and was told there was an open e cafe about 10 minutes away. Walked about that far, asked, was told the place upstairs was closed. 'Approached by a rickshaw driver--bike with a seat for 2 small people or me. He peddled me about 5 minutes to this place. Rate here: 3 yuen per HOUR! That's 40 times cheaper than the hotel business center. As I climbed in to the rickshaw I asked how much. I thought he said "10". I said: "For 10, okay". About 6 blocks later, he asked for 100 yuen! I said no way, told him we agreed on 10. He refused my 10. I eventually offered 15. He demanded 20. I told him take the 15 or nothing and he took the 15. It was a 20 minute walk back to the hotel. Turn right just past the KFC. So, my 3 yuen hour here at stall 25 in the email cafe packed with about 50 Chinese (either side of me playing video games) really cost me 18 yuen, which would get me 9 minutes at the hotel business center. I'm back again at this email site, for this final chronicle. Both evenings have been fresh, cool, not very humid--nice for walking. 'Feels safe here, although last night I first stopped in at a hotel, thinking it might be the open email site, and the desk guy wasn't friendly--barked in response to my English questioning.
Today was busy. We stopped at a cloisonné workshop and store, then on to the Great Wall. Only 3 of us made it to the top and I was the senior of the group. Now I know why athletes train at high altitudes. I felt strong, although, as always, I worked up a profuse sweat. After lunch it was on to the Forbidden City. The roof lines were impressive, but we didn't have much access to interiors. Next we rode in rickshaws to a teahouse, then on to our final dinner. Our guide got us a special rate on Beijing 2008 (Olympics) hats and T-shirts. We continued to shop on the way back to the hotel and at the hotel, until I scooted off to walk to this email spot.
A little while ago I thought I'd lost this composition. Before I do, I'm going to send it. Hopefully I'll take time after arriving home to reflect on the trip in a summing-up email.
John


China-Tibet Summary

On return to Willamette High School after my NSF summer school at NM Highlands U, the principal asked me what I liked best. Without hesitation, I answered: "The people". This Madi Nolan Pacific Delight Tour group was special. All of us so unique, choosing to come along for our own so right reasons. My exposure to the spiritual openness of the others was too brief to dislodge me from my pragmatic shelf. I did get a kick from finding a "ghost image" in one of my photos (Madi blessed cameras, promising they could expose spirits from other dimensions).

One of the strongest arguments timeshare sellers make: If you don't pamper yourself, buy from us and you'll be sure to treat yourself to the luxury you deserve. I love designing my own vacations. While I enjoy staying in nicer places at times, "5-star" is not in my repertoire. The hotels, their air conditioning and their dining fares were sumptuous. Amazingly, I didn't gain weight, even prior to coming down with this respiratory crud on the flight home.

I could have skipped, besides numerous meals, the lengthy stops at pricey tourist show rooms, leaving more time to barter with street vendors (True, missing some of the high-end museum quality stuff). There were opportunities to meander alone, meet Chinese and Tibetans, but cultural immersion is diminished with such a busy group schedule.

So, does this tour impact my back-burner idea of being a Latin American outside travel agent? Too soon to say. Favorite, familiar haunts do beckon. Considered itineraries: 1) The Ecuadorian Sierra and Upper Amazon; 2) Highland markets of Guatemala, Mayan ruins and Honduran Bay Islands; and 3) Oaxaca's markets, ruins and the Mexican Pacific Coast. Years ago I worked with a social worker turned travel agent. It occurred to me skills for both professions include ability to match clients to fitting opportunities. Then again, caretaking some group members could begin to feel like I never retired from social work! There are so many other parts of the world to experience for the first time. Then again, if enough of you clamor for me to take you to one or all of the above, I will consider it, at an enticing fee…

Meanwhile, enough: I've got to get my income tax done.

John

Cuba & Mexico 2003

John's First GREETINGS FROM CASA ANTIGUA, CUBAN B&B. THIS KEYBOARD KEEPSGOING TO CAPS ON ME, SO I´M NOT GOING TOFIGHT IT. TUESDAY NIGHT ´GOT NO SLEEP, DIDN´TSTART PACKING ´TIL ABOUTMIDNIGHT. FLIGHT LEFT AT 6 A.M., FORDALLAS, WHERE I MET UPWITH MARY (YOUNGER SISTER--EARLY 50THBDAY TRIP FOR HER). FLIGHT ON TO CANCUN SMOOTH. IN CANCUN AIRPORT MET NATASHA, FROMWHIDBY ISLAND. QUIT HERCURATING JOB AT UW BURKE MUSEUM TORETURN TO CUBA. SHE´SORGANIZED A LEGAL TRIP TO BRING MEDICALSUPPLIES HERE. ´HASA CONNCECTION FOR GETTING APPROVAL--NOBIG DEAL. SO, IF YOUWANT TO COME WITH ME TO CUBA NEXT YEAR,PUT IN YOURRESERVATION NOW. SPACE MAY BE LIMITED! AND, WITHOUT DOUBT, I WANT TO RETURN. OUR FIRST TWO DAYSHAVE BEEN DELIGHTFUL. THURSDAY A.M. WECOT A TAXI TO PLAYASDEL ESTE, THINKING THE BEACH WOULD BE AGOOD PLACE TO NAP. ´DIDN´T GET MUCH SLEEP, BUT WE HAD AGOOD TIME. THE WATERWAS PERFECT, WITH ENOUGH WAVES TO DO AMINI BODY SURF. MARYGOT A MASSAGE. WE HAD OUR FIRSTMOJITAS--RUM WITH LIME,SODA WATER, SUGAR AND MINT. ´BECAME A TEAM WITH CARLOS, OUR TAXIDRIVER. HE DROPPED USBACK AT THE B&B, THEN PICKED US UP ANDTOOK US TO ANINTIMATE DINNER, WHERE 84 Y.O. ANGELASERANADED US. SINCEPROMISING HER THAT WE´LL SEND HER A COPYOF THE PHOTO WETOOK, WE´VE GOTTEN ADDRESSES FROM ABOUTHALF A DOZEN OTHERFRIENDLY CUBAS. AFTER DINNER CARLOS TOOK US IN TOANTIQUA HAVANA, TO FINDSOME LIVE MUSIC, MARY JOINED THE BAND,BANGING RHYTHM ON AHUIDO. LEAD SINGER, DAVID, BEFRIENDEDUS AND THIS EVENINGTOOK US FOR DINNER TO ¨LA MULATA DESABOR¨, WHERE WE HADDELICIOUS CHICKEN AND RICE, SANG SONGSAND DANCED WITH DAVIDAND THE OWNER OF THE LITTLE RESTAURANT,JUSTINA. EARLIIER TODAY WE WALKED AROUND OLDHAVANA, MORE LIVE MUSICDURING LUNCH (WE´VE PURCHASED CDS FROM 3BANDS SO FAR,SIGNATURES ON ALL). WHILE HORACIO ISN´T HERE AT CASA ANTIGUA(SEEWWW.ESCAPEARTIST.COM/EFAM/40/CUBA.HTML)HIS 19 Y.O. BALARINATURNED ACTRISS DAUGHTER, DEANNA, HASTREATED US ADMIRABLY. IT´S A LOVELY OLD COLONIAL HOME. ´TIRED. ´NEED TO GET DEANNA TO TURN OFFTHE COMPUTER, SOI´LL SIGN OFF. TOMORROW WE RENT A CARAND HEAD FORTRINIDAD, ON THE SOUTH SHORE OF THEISLAND,A WORLD HERITAGESITE. ´SORRY. NO SPELL CHECK. IF I FOUND IT,IT WOULD BE FORSPANISH. HASTA PRONTO, JOHN

Cuba photo highlights: http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/Cuba2003
Cancun highlight pics: http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/Cancun2003
Oaxaca pics: http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/Oaxaca2003
Pacific Coast pics: http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/PuertoAngelToZihuatanejo2003

Subject:
John's second

Greetings from Trinidad, World Heritage
site, lovely old
colonial city near the central coast of
Cuba. Mary and I
just returned from a snorkeling trial
and 320 degree sunset
(From noon--north--on a clock to 10
p.m.--color almost all
around). Water perfect, techniques
ready for a 10 minute
catamaran ride out to the reef in the
morning.

We're still sticky from our swim, but
when we checked in to
the internet cafe we realized if we go
back and shower first
all machines may be taken and closing
time coming on (close
early Sunday nights).

The capable young Deanna at the B&B in
Havana made a
mistake. She suggested we copy our
passports, leave them
with her to avoid a possible misfortune
traveling. She
referred us to Mercedes here in
Trinidad. But, on
presenting photocopies to Mercedes last
night, she said the
gov't here can take away her casa
particular (B&B) license
for accepting guests w/o actual
passport. After much drama
and phone calls to Deanna, it was
finally arranged to send
the passports today with a bus driver.
It worked, we're
good with Mercedes. Nice house, near
the center of the old
city, great food, pleasant conversation
(lots of laughs--her
response to my efforts last night to
convince her that
passports weren’t needed--she told me not
to get "bravo" with her).

After the great dinner, Mary and I went
looking for Saturday
night action, with her light sticks made
in to bracelets
(neon, shine for a few hours). Did that
ever bring us
action (being norteamericanos already
making us attractive).
After giving most of the light sticks
to kids, Mary gave
one to a dancer she admired, whereupon
we were invited to
join their group--some are professional
dancers. We did
some bar hoping and rum drinking and had
a lively time. We
keep remarking on the physical beauty of
so many Cubans.
Some beg, some hustle ("jiniteros"), but
most are simply
friendly. We just gave a parking
attendant a ride in to
town from the beach (we'll meet up with
him here a little
later, so he can take us to a private
home for $8 lobster
dinners!). He commented that almost all
visitors from the
States are very likeable, more so that
European visitors. I
told him when the blockage ends, U.S.
visitors will be more
like the Europeans. Those of us willing
to run the blockade
or go to the trouble of meeting it's
requirements are "mas
buena gente".

My legal visit next year is taking
shape: I'll gather and
bring bike reflectors. We got in after
dark last night.
Lots of bikes and horse-drawn carts on
the edge of the
narrow, shoulderless road (More than
elsewhere in Latin
America--the embargo has helped make
auto ownership a rare
luxury for Cubans). Very few with
reflectors. So, you can
come with me if you bring your quota of
reflectors. Mary's
bringing medical supplies and vitamins,
so you can meet her
requirements instead.

Time to get cleaned up to go eat
lobster!

Stay tuned...

John




Subject:
Hasta la vista, Cuba


Internet cafe, Cancun. Early morning
flight from Havana.

´Just hit the wrong key and lost a few
paragraphs! Here
goes again.

After last posting in Trinidad, Miguel
took us to a private
home where Mary and I were treated to
the lobster of our
life. Photo proof can be emailed, on
request, after my
return 11/24.

On to the dance performance of some of
our young friends
from the night before. The evening
ended when the disco
scene and yet another request to buy a
beer suddenly took
the pleasure out of it (and led to
analysis at breakfast the
next morning about
¨jiniterismo¨--hustling, Cuban style).
And, then there are the jiniteros in our
lives at home...

´Back to Playa Ancon, accompanied by
Miguel, parking
attendant and lobster meal finder who,
on his day off,
wanted to spend it with us. Snorkeling
was great. The
friendly young skipper jumped in and
showed us some of the
best spots on the reef.

Miguel found a massage for Mary on the
beach. The day was
going great ´til we got back to the
rental car and
discovered we'd lost the only key.
Fruitless search. ´Got
a ride in to town in a 50´s Chevy, had
to push to jump start
it when it died.

Fortunately there is a CubaCar agency in
Trinidad. $15 for
the lost key, $50 for the personal
delivery across the
island (4-5 hours one way), that same
night. ´Last 2 times
I needed a locksmith to get me back in
to my pickup it cost
me $55 and only moments of the
locksmiths´ time. Those of
you who know how I relish making ¨deals¨
can imagine how
ecstatic I was with the outcome of this
misadventure!

Before breakfast Tuesday we made a run
up to the cloud
forest, ´took along Karren, from
Holland, on a 3 week visit
alone to Cuba. She's a mega trekker,
´been many places
around the world.

Then on to Cienfuegos. Javier, part of
the young dance
crowd, had returned there and asked us
to look him up. We
didn't intend to, but he was sitting in
the plaza and
spotted us as we rolled in to town. On
to the photogenic
central plaza, where Juan talked me in
to buying a box of
cigars. We inquired about places to
stay close to
snorkeling and about hot springs. Juan
knew of both and
Javier good-naturedly went along with
Juan's addition to the
magical tour.

On the way out to the hot springs,
beyond the natural water
plant, the sunset was lovely. Árrived
about dark, to a
couple of fountains of about 102 degree
F. Nice.

Before the hot springs we did find a
casa particular at
Playa Luna. Not fancy, but adequate.
We awoke to another
incredible sky, walked the beach for
about an hour, finding
broken coral at water's edge. After
breakfast we returned
to the beach, rented a paddle boat for
$2/hour and made our
way out to the reef for another couple
hours of snorkeling.
For awhile I followed a school of about
150 blue fish, with
a few other coloreds going along ´cause
it was the thing to
do.

We decided to return to Havana, rather
that stretch to
include a quick visit to Viñales,
reportedly featured in the
current National Geographic. We didn't
have Wednesday night
reserved back at Casa Antigua, but knew
they would find us
another casa particular if they were
full, which was the
case. Half a block away is Casa Diana,
an even lovelier old
home, where Antonio (former police stunt
cyclist) and Diana
were charming and attentive.

During our first 3 days in Havana I was
taken by the
paintings of Mary Gil, in an open
market. We returned
Thursday and bought several, vistas of
old crumbling
buildings in Antigua Havana. While
waiting out a rainstorm,
listening to yet another live combo
(Makes about 6 we got
signed CDs from), the weather let up
enough to catch a
bicycle taxi out along the Malicon, to
take photos of the
places Mary Gil paints.

Wednesday evening, while briefly at the
historic Hotel
Nacional for internet access, we saw
billing for a show the
next night (our last) including several
of the aging
maestros featured in Buena Vista Social
Club. Our stay in
Cuba culminated in a photo of Mary and
the energetic Teresa
Garcia Catlura, the grand dame of Cuban
music!

Óff to the airport to pick up Mom and
older sister Donna.
The Westin Club Regina is welcome
luxury. And, can we make
use of the free laundry machines!

Hasta pronto,

John

Subject:
Hasta la vista Cancun (John's 4th)


In an internet cafe on the zocalo
(central plaza in Oaxaca,
southern highlands of Mexico. 'Bid Mom,
Mary and Donna
farewell a few hours ago, in the Cancun
airport. The rest
of my travels will include checking out
other Mexican
timeshare exchanges, here in Oaxaca, as
well as Acapulco and
Zihuatanejo.

Mom and older sister, Donna, joined Mary
and me at the
Westin Club Regina in Cancun a week ago.
Very nice, the 4
of us were quite comfortable. While
warm, we had a breeze
all the time.

The ocean was a couple of minutes from
our room. 'Brilliant
blue water, white sand. Ideal
temperature, significant
breakers. After some misdirections,
'found the barrier
reef. Necessitated walking down the
beach and through Club
Med. The uniform tan sunbathers are out
late morning to
mid-day. Snorkeling was great. Mary
and I both followed a
turtle yesterday.

Spectacular sunrises and sunsets.

Monday, with a weather system hanging
around much of the day
(So far, in Cuba and Cancun, we're seen
some huge downpours,
but they didn't last long), we took the
ferry to Isla
Mujeres, visited Villa Vera, another
timeshare exchange
option. Very nice. When the sheets of
rain fell, we
managed to take cover. Shopped--beaded
bracelets and bags
from Mayan street vendors. My
bargaining edge isn't as
sharp as in years past, when I relished
20 minutes of
bartering to get a better price than
most tourists.

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/IslaMujeres

This cafe is about to close, so I´ll
wrap up for now, take
in some of the live music here at the
zocalo. The fresh
mountain air is delightful.

John



Subject:
From Oaxaca (#5)


Fancy this: me, shopping, and having
fun. Embroidered
dresses, blouses, shirts, runners,
baskets, paintings on
bark, turquoise bracelet, a few pottery
pieces--and a bag to
carry all the new stuff.

The timeshare was very nice, smaller
than the place we had
at Cancun, but still about the size of
an average studio
apartment. 'Decided to take in a
countryside market today
and stay a 3rd night. The timeshare
isn't available, so
I've moved to a bunk at a youth hostel,
at about 5% of the
retail price of the timeshare! 'More
opportunity to meet
fellow travelers (already had a nice
chat with Sean, a
young Brit) and better fits my flight
back in to youthful
backpacker.

The Sunday market at Tlacolula did not
disappoint. 'Mixture
of food, crafts and modern stuff. As
is the case
elsewhere, the indigenous vendors did
NOT want their
pictures taken. So, I resorted to shots
from the hip.
'Miss the 35 mm with the telephoto
lens, but not the
bulkiness. And, the bad misses just get
erased from the
digital.

'Dinner at a sidewalk cafe on the
zocalo--menu del dia for
35 pesos (about $3), complete with
stroll by live music,
tips appreciated.

'Have my ticket purchased for a van to
the Pacific Coast at
7 in the morning. 'Will miss the fresh
mountain air and the
colonial architecture. Oaxaca is a
delight.

Later,

John




Subject:
Fun in Acapulco


Greetings from Zihuatanejo ('Haven't
laid eyes on Tim
Robbins or Morgan Freeman yet). I did
follow Elvis' path to
watch the clavadistas in Acapulco (all
these cinematic
references, I must be feeling movie
deprived).

The Oaxaca hostel was pleasant.
'Surprisingly quiet, for 6
guys in 3 bunks.

The 6 hour trip down to Puerto Angel
from Oaxaca was smooth,
if twisty, starting in a 5000' valley,
climbing over the
Sierra Madre del Sur before dropping to
sea level.
'Surprised at stands of long needle pine
that haven't been
cut down, even close to the road.

'Stayed at a small hotel perched on a
hill in Pto. Angel,
catching some breeze (No refreshing
rains here, like we got
daily in Cancun). I live in just swim
trunks here on the
beach. Even a slow walk leaves me
drenched with sweat.

So, head for the water. 'Went
snorkeling on a couple of
beaches, not much coral, but lots of
fish. 'Startled to see
a big manta ray (stealth bomber-looking)
at close range.
Maybe I should read up on fish
temperaments. I am more
confident snorkeling near waves breaking
on rocky shores.

After having no luck finding volleyball
so far, I joined a
lively game at sunset on the beach in
Pto. Angel.

Despite only one night at Pto. Angel
(I've decided to dub
myself "the efficient tourist"), I also
fit in a walk the
length of nude beach Zipolite on Tuesday
morning. Further
refined my ability to shoot pictures
from the hip, the
Indian market technique. But I had a
feeling the buff
bathers took me for the voyeur that I
was.

While I had an empty seat next to me
most of the trip to
Acapulco and the first class bus was air
conditioned, it was
a long trip. Topes--speed bumps--are
incessant on Mexican
highways.

When I arrived at Villa Vera, the
timeshare in Acapulco, at
about 1 a.m., my air conditioned room
was waiting for me.
Quite the resort, including several
pools, a cascading water
fall that does a nice shoulder massage,
and a spa, including
a 15 head shower (now does make me feel
important!).

'Befriended the taxi driver that took me
to watch the cliff
divers. 'Turned out he has a "cousin"
in the jewelry
business. He ended up giving me a tour,
including a vista
of Michael Jackson's and Madonna's
villas in the
"diamantina" neighborhood.

Word is the bay has been cleaned up at
Acapulco. Having
spotted some rocks on my morning beach
walk, I returned with
snorkel and fins in the afternoon.
Visibility wasn't great,
but I saw lots of fish, including
another manta ray, with
bright white spots all over its
back.

November 20: Dia de la Revolucion. Not
the day to drive
through towns along Mexican highways
that don't have back
streets. Our bus was held up a total of
two hours in two
towns this morning while the locals
relished parading down
the highway.

Dining on the beach, in Zihuatanejo, a nice Canadian
couple invited me to
join them. They are going to Oaxaca
soon, so I made them
scan my digital photos and gave them
some leads. I had a
start when suddenly my fanny pack, full
of all the valuable
and invaluable--wallet, airline ticket,
camera--was missing.
'Had somehow flipped it on to the sand
a few feet away.
Phew!

All for now,

John

"Summing up Cuba and Mexico, 11/03"


Home again. 'First pot of Mexican coffee--good. Kilo purchased in Zihua for 60 pesos (Exchange now at about 11 pesos on the dollar--works out to about US $2.45/pound).

Trip up the coast was rather uneventful. After some indecision, I didn't mention the cigars on my customs declaration form. 'Right move. We went through Customs in LA as a drove. So much for Homeland Security (No, let's not go there now).

The Ugly, Bad, and Good ('Saw one new release movie while traveling--Clint's Mystic River. 'Stayed awake).

What I could have done without:

-The feeding frenzy when we gave out baseballs, caps, toys, lotions, etc;
-The pushy, uncharming jiniteros (hustlers);
-The high priced meal in Havana, "all-inclusive", but the unrequested cigar they brought added $7 to the tab, and my stomach was majorly upset the next morning;
-Going the long way to Trinidad, on the direction of the gal we gave a lift to--got her dropped off a lot closer to home;
-Mercedes "cow" because we brought only copies of our passports;
-Searching for the lost car key;
-Saying "good bye" (and "good bye" and "good bye"...) to new found friends;
-Pockets of trash (much more so in Mexico than Cuba);
-The heat and humidity, except Oaxaca (5000' elevation)--profuse sweating, even if walking slowly, in the shade;
-The topes (speed bumps) in Mexico, the hours and delays on bus rides;
-Failing to buy more coffee.

Highlights:

-With increasing "senior moments", I worried I might have lost much of my Spanish; Cubans speak fast; but, in conversing with me, they slowed down and I was quite fluent;
-Engaging Cubans (and, less frequently, Mexicans);
-Meeting fellow travelers;
-Live music, every other street corner and small bar (signed cd's to recollect);
-Original art--steals;
-Cuban cigars to pass out--steals;
-George W and his mafia not catching me;
-Huipilas, dresses, shirts, baskets, ceramic--steals;
-Sunrises, sunsets--day after day;
-The digital camera, capturing so much, including market color/character;
-Snorkeling: Cuba (Playa Ancon, Playa Rancho Luna) and Mexico (Club Med, Akumal, (Puerto Angel, Playa Estacachuite, Acapulco, Zihuatanejo);
-Sun/color, without sunburn;
-Weight loss and less than a full day feeling ill;
-Club Regina hotels and villas: exquisite, friendly staffs, AC, the incredible trading value of our Whistler timeshare weeks (to follow in another email soon, when I have more time--my summary, offer to sublet, invitation to invest yourself...).

Looking at my desk, I'm thinking of going back on the road. 'Didn't make it to Club Regina's Cabo and Puerto Vallarta sites, both splendid. Mary and I are serious about returning to Cuba, taking medical supplies and bike/cart reflectors. We'll want to limit group size. Your early reservation will increase the chances you can come along!

John

New Zealand & Australia 2002

October 31, 2002

Subject:
Australia and New Zealand notes
Hi all,

It looks like we'll have frequent
internet access on our big trip
starting election day.



First entry will likely be
from Great Barrier Reef country,
if we survive the air travel (Lucy may
kill me: since our frequent
flyer award travel is with American, we
have to fly Seattle-DALLAS-LA,
before the 14.5 hour flight to Sydney.
'Should be enough, ya think?
No, we're going to hang around Sydney
airport for 3 hours and catch a
3 hour flight north to Cairns, where I
have reservations in a youth
hostel.).

Until Queensland,

John

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/NewZealandAustralia2002

11/4/02

Subject:
John's log, #1, Cairns, North Queensland
Travel notes: if flying, hopefully
you'll find those new federal
employees more in stride. We were held
up at SeaTac for fear Lucy had
TNT in her new purse. The 90 minute
line to get through security at
LA Int'l stretched out onto the
sidewalk. I didn't sleep much on the
14 hour flight to Sydney, watched 3
movies on my personal screen in
the headrest in front of me. 'Arrived
not too bushed. Maybe a little
disoriented: I expected my first call
back home to be answered at
Noon. Instead, it was midnight!

Notes on the Great Barrier Reef:
Growing up in Oregon, I had to
eventually compare it to the Maine Coast.
While the lobster was special and
the fishing villages had history, the
coastline couldn't begin to
match Oregon's. So I feel about the
reef here after our exploration
today. The wind didn't help, but the
coral and the fish were less
spectacular than in our hemisphere--West
End Roatan (Honduran Bay
Islands) and Acumal (Yucatan). The crew
and others on the boat were
fun and Cairns (silent "r"--pronounced
like "Canes") is pleasant this
time of year. Friendly locals and
fellow travelers.

So, back to Sydney for a couple on
nights and on to New Zealand.

Later,

John


11/12

Subject:
John from North Island, NZ
Greetings from an internet cafe,
downtown Auckland. 11 p.m. Place is
packed. $1 for the first hour. Such a
deal. I could do without the
young gal next to me smoking, but ya
can't have everything.

'Just came from a delightful dinner with
a transplanted harbor gal
(read: Aberdeen country), now a shrink
here in New Zealand. I was
her sister's social worker a couple of
times. She brought along a
Kiwi friend, distant relative of mine,
last name "Lowry".

We spent the morning walking (ducking
rain showers--much cooler here
than E. Australia; very green, like the
Pacific NW), admiring homes
and parks, checking shops. Lucy's
jazzed--she bought some woollen cut
from the same material used for cloaks
for The Lord of the
Ring--unique gray wool. After lunch we
drove around looking at more
neighborhoods and parks in our rented
Mazda. 'Got one horn blast for
pulling in front of a car, but generally
adjusting to driving on the
left.

Following entry #1 from the Great
Barrier Reef, we spent a couple of
nights in Sydney. Our B&B was across
the harbor from city center, so
we had several ferry rides, landing at
Circular Quay, Opera House on
one side, Harbour Bridge on the other.
'Saw quite a bit of the city
via a bus tour, getting off as the
spirit moved us. 'Took in a ballet
at the opera house. Hemisphere makes no
difference--I sleep through
cultured events anywhere in the world.

In the morning we start our southward NZ
journey.

Later,

John

11/18

(#3 lost, apparently)

Subject:
John downunder #4
Hello from Queenstown, adventure capitol
of the world. 'More scary
things to do here than you can imagine.
I think I read that bungy
jumping originated here. Anyway, it's
big. No, I'm not even tempted.

Since last entry, we spent a morning in
Wellington before catching a
ferry to South Island. Beautiful city.
Lots of water, parks, lovely
homes perched on hills. A place I could
spend time.

'Took a shortcut just off the ferry.
'Cut the distance to 1/3, but
may not have saved much time as the 25
kph (that's 15 mph) curves
along Queen Charlotte Sound were
seemingly unending. You know that tv
commercial--the guy's ready to buy the
fixer house sight unseen
because he can drive up and down the
hill in his sports car? He
should come to NZ. Narrow, curvy roads
all over. Plus one way
bridges. Except for cities, traffic has
been very light.

Next day we caught a boat up the coast
at Abel Tasman Nat'l Park (NZ
has bunches of national parks). Hiked
back about 15 km to the car
('made it!). Rainforest with vistas of
the rugged coastline. Lovely,
but the Olympic National Park and the
Oregon Coast are in some ways
grander.

Last night we were at a youth hostel at
Franz Joseph, at the base of a
Mt. Cook glacier. Weather continues to
be cool (unusual for this time
of year here, but I like the fresh air).
We've had mostly sunny days,
great views of the mountains and the
pretty countryside. We're
holding up well considering my breakneck
schedule of seeing much of
both islands in 11 days. About 500 km.
some days (remember those
curves), but we still get in walks and
other breaks. We'll have less
travel the next two days--we spend
tomorrow night on a boat in
Doubtful Sound.

Later,

John

11/20

Subject:
John, downunder entry 5
Greetings from Dunedin, SE South Island,
New Zealand. A big player in
world economics last century. The hills
above the city are full of
beautiful old Victorian homes. On the
mountain across the bay we
bought woolen pullovers and sheep skins
right from the farm. I
commented to the farmer that NZ
certainly has lots of sheep. He
informed me the current population,
about 40,000,000, is quite a bit
fewer that the 68,000,000 some time ago.

Last night was spend aboard the
Fjordland Navigator, anchored up
Crooked Arm of Doubtful Sound, in
Fjordland National Park. Highlight
of our trip so far. While most of the
time the fjord is rainy and
shrouded in clouds (8 meters of rain a
year--7 times what we expect in
the rainy Pacific Northwest!), we had
spectacular blue skies. Snow
capped peaks around every bend in the
fjord. Fur seals, penguins and
porpoises cooperated by not being
bashful, the porpoises swimming
along with the boat for some time. We
also kayaked, checked out the
waterfalls and rainforest coming down to
water's edge. Staff and
fellow travelers friendly. We've met a
lot of friendly people here.

Picture taking, after a slow start, is
now rapidly using up remaining
space on our digital memory card. 'Did
some deleting earlier this
evening. 'Looking forward to more
versatility in sharing pictures
than the cumbersome slide shows of the
past. Let me know what you
want to see a shot of and I'll email it
to you when I get home.

Tomorrow we're up the coast to
Christchurch, port of departure for
Antarctica. The following afternoon we
fly to Melbourne, catch up
with our son, Nate. The semester
already over, he will just be
returning from Tasmania to greet us.

Hasta luego,

John