Early morning, 20th October, 2009
Nighttime over the Atlantic.
We are due to land in Milan about 7 am. We departed from JFK as the sun was setting on Long Island. I was on the wrong side of the plane to catch sight of NY City. My full-size laptop doesn't fit well in this Boeing 767 coach seating. Fortunately, I have a vacant seat next to me--Lucy has an exit row seat not far away. Last I checked, she looked asleep. The flight from Seattle was about full. I hope Lucy is getting some good rest now, as she was becoming trip-weary by the time we reached NY. She didn’t sleep last night. Too much anticipation. It's been awhile since both of us have been away from home for any length of time together. We'll miss 2-year old Juliet on the weekends. Hopefully we've left Raechelle all pertinent instructions and the animals will adapt to so much time alone.
We asked about upgrading to first class in NY, but were told that we couldn't, at least at the gate, with our frequent flyer tickets. Only 40,000 each--round trip, Seattle to Milan!--low season just kicked in October 15. But, temperature in Milan is 34 degrees F. And, we're headed up to the base of the Alps for our first 2 nights. I've been thinking I was smart--to come in the fall, avoiding the oppressive heat and crowds of summer, but September may be more ideal for Northern Italy. We shall find out...
The program we bought to install in the Garmin, for N Italy did not download successfully. I'm inclined to not pay for a GPS with the rental car. From a Michelin online site, I have printed out "sightseeing" routes, which likely differ with GPS faster routes along toll roads. I'm hoping the pace will be about right--most travel days between one and four hours of road time, most stops for two nights. It will still be a matter of prioritizing what to see & how long to stay.
The gauntlet I subjected Lucy to at the start of our Australia trip is detailed in the 2005 blog entry. That may have been matched by the start of our Mexico-Guatemala trip with 7-year old Dustin in 1980. Lucy visited a friend in LA and got little sleep before we flew off to Mexico. Dustin and I took in Disneyland, The stopover in Mexico City Airport extended to something like 8 hours, before we continued on to Tapachula, a very hot, humid city near the Guatemalan border. I sprung for a cab, and we headed for the one AC hotel in town, only to learn the AC quit working in 1978! Despite our exhaustion, we didn't get much sleep that sticky night, with a slow, dirty ceiling fan barely creating a breeze. Lucy must have figured she was in for 3 weeks of hell with the Peace Corps volunteer turned family guide. The next day, speaking of Peace Corps, we hitched a ride with volunteers, up in to the refreshing mountains of Western Guatemala, where I had reservations at Pension Bonifaz.
Jetlag in Cannobio
It's 3:30 a.m. in the Hotel Pironi's sitting room. To reach a power source (using our adaptor for electricity in Europe), I have taken over a corner of a table covered by brochures of things to do in this northern corner of Italy, 5 km from the Swiss border. While reception gave me a code for internet access, it's not working. I'll ask for help a little later in the morning.
We arrived at Milan's Malpensa airport early yesterday morning. 'Still dark at 7 a.m. 'Nothing to customs. A bit of a walk to our rental car, reserved via Economy Car Rentals (good rate, I think, but truth will be in the final credit card billing). As noted above, we didn't get the Garmin to program for Italy so we didn't bring it. They didn't have a GPS available at the car rental, which suited me, I thought, at the time. But, after the maze getting out of the airport parking, the directions I got from the rental car guy didn't make sense, nor did the Michelin map and directions I had printed before leaving home. I should have pulled over sooner, but we were going through rural countryside, with no gas stations or stores to be seen. Signs on the freeway kept saying "Novara", which fit with the way I thought we should be going--west--but the sun was rising ahead of us. After maybe half an hour, I got off the freeway and made our way in to a hamlet, where I found a gas station. 2nd attempt (1st being the car rental guy) at getting directions from an Italian with little to no English and my efforts at adapting Spanish to Italian marginally successful. But, within blocks of following her directions, I was confused and pulled in to talk to another Italian service station attendant. We got back on the same freeway, going the other way, went past the airport but failed to find the exit we were looking for on the Michelin directions. Eventually, I could tell we were going north, but east of where we wanted to be. 'Drove in to a town, stopped at a cash machine for Euros and went in to a store, where a couple of people agreed on the directions they gave me. But, within a few kms & a roundabout that first mentioned a town the direction that we wanted to go, only to fail to show where to exit the roundabout for that town, we were back to the same toll booth where I decided I needed help, still going northeast! This time 5th--all queried Italians were pleasant and wanted to help me) we went to a manned tollbooth and got directions that worked. The last hour was along the western shores of Lake Maggiore, going through picturesque towns, lots to narrow, curvy stretches along the lakeshore. Unfortunately, it was a gray, overcast day. I can imagine that drive on a sunny day with blue sky. Villas perched on the steep, foliaged hillsides. Big, classy old brick buildings, some with zero clearance from the roadway.
Once in Cannobio, a policeman directed us down a narrow cobbled street to the Hotel Pironi, where we unloaded our bags and I was successful in following the map to the hotel parking, the gate appearing just as I was beginning to think I'd again misunderstood directions. It wasn't yet 3 pm, about 8 hours after our departure from the airport. Estimated time, per Michelin? 1:49 (Read: one hour, forty nine minutes!). Lucy, despite her exhaustion from lack of sleep, was very patient with me. I can only imagine her attitude if the car rental place had a GPS system I declined, due to my initial faith in my printed sightseeing routes from Michelin.
Our room here at the Pironi is large and pleasant. Big, comfortable bed. Friendly desk staff, speak English fluently. After a nap for a couple of hours, we walked--along the waterfront. Very photogenic, in spite of the gray afternoon. Lucy's walking pace exceeds mine normally. Now, most of a month after arthroscopic surgery on my L knee, and following plane flights of 5 and then 7.5 hours, I was lagging behind worse than normal. The thought of even short hikes in the Alps, which begin at the end of town here, appeal less to me, esp. given that going up and down is particularly uncomfortable. We might drive up in to them today, if we don't decide to go visit the lake islands. The forecast is not promising better weather.
'Seems like more often than not I forget something. This trip it's the connection for the camera to the computer. I could buy one here, but I can insert photo albums in to the blog after getting back home. 'Sorry for the delay. I'll let you know as soon as the pics are added.
2nd day in Cannobio--Rebound
It's about 5 a.m. Thursday, 10/22. Back in Hotel Pironi's sitting room. I was here last night, catching up on email on their computer, after continuing to strike out on getting wireless connection for this laptop.
http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/LakeMaggioreHillTowns#
After some good sleep, we had a breakfast banquet yesterday morning--here at our B&B Hotel Pironi. Gray skies were now sprinkling. We decided on a 10-minute drive to lakeside Carmine, parked and hiked up to Carmine Superiore. On the trail signs it said 0:15, but took me more like half an hour each way. The old church, with the small community tightly build behind it, constructed in the 14th century, is perched above a sheer rock wall of a couple hundred feet. The location was chosen for it's defensive location (like Machu Picchu), when powerful locals worried about even more powerful enemies. Some places requiring serious hiking to get to them (Okay, what's 15 minutes--significant, if it's that steep and you must carry everything in with you!), but otherwise have easy road access. For example, Mt. Washington in N. Hampshire. Carmine Superiore has no road alternative. Yet, people live there. Even on a gray, rainy day, there's another great shot at every turn for a photographer. Pics to follow (Lucy's camera cord has the same connection as mine, so it I can get wireless at a coming destination, I can hopefully insert links to albums!).
Driving back to town, we turned up the Cannobio Valley. We saw a bridge, high over the river and took it. We thought we had been on curvy, narrow roads already, but this one redefines snaking hairpins. We honked at some blind spots, but trusted these fast Italian drivers have good brakes and allow for pokey tourists. After maybe 5 minutes we came to the town of Gurrone. We meandered through cobbled passageways, saw more signs with travel times to various destinations via paths in this mountainous region. 1:15; 2:40; 4:05. Ah, to still be young, with good knees! We visited the cemetery (Inadvertent link to my mortality when I first wrote this!).
Descending from Gurrone, we decided not to continue up the valley, which eventually enters Switzerland. Returning toward town, we stopped at an old church overlooking a river chasm then drove east of town a couple of km, turning up yet another narrow switchback, to the hamlet of Santa Agata. And a church to visit, along with the commanding view of Cannobio below.
http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/CannobioLakeMaggiore#
Back in Cannobio, we had a light lunch at a bar on the waterfront. Only 7 Euros, a relief, after the 49 Euro bill the night before, at a nice enough place, but tucked away in a narrow street without view. (The value of the dollar against the Euro is at an all-time low--it takes about $1.50 US to buy one Euro now.) The light rain earlier in the day was becoming steadier. 'Happy to return for a nap at this comfortable hotel. We went back to the same bar for a small pizza and caraff of wine before closing time.
http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/Bergamo#
Another meandering day on the road
Thursday evening, Bergamo Alta. After another delicious breakfast at Hotel Pironi, this morning I calmly paid the 300 Euro bill for the 2 nights, reminding myself that we didn't spend 100 Euros on breakfasts and bigger lunches the last two days, given we took advantage of the Pironi spread both mornings.
Weather continued overcast most of the morning, raining lightly at times. Guards at the Swiss border saw me holding my passport and merely waived us to keep going. It appears there is little concern about border security within the European Union. We rounded the northern edge of Lake Maggiorne and headed down the eastern shore. I didn't realize for some time that we had failed to follow the Michelin directions. We adjusted course and again had to back track and ask questions about how to get to the next town. We skirted pretty Lake Lugano. Finally we reached Como, at the southernmost point of Lake Como. The sun came out as we had a light lunch in a bar on the waterfront, at about 3 pm. I had read that Bellagio was a pretty town, about an hour along the shores of Lake Como, and had originally planned lunch there. Since we were about 3-4 hours behind schedule, it was a no-brainer to pass on the detour to Bellagio. And, while on the map it wasn't the most direct route to Bergamo, I decided to take the toll autostradas, having had enough of "sightseeing" routes for today. Entering Bergamo, we managed to find our way to the ancient upper town without difficulty and were within a block of our hotel, Agnello d'Oro ("Golden Lamb"), when we stopped to ask its location.
No internet or wifi in the hotel. The desk clerk told me the Irish Pub has wifi and gave me directions. 'Sounded close by. After a few blocks and no Irish Pub, I asked a police officer. He motioned it was further on ahead. But, a couple of blocks further and still no pub, I asked a storekeeper. He told me I'd come too far and said it was 2 minutes back the way I'd just come. After about 5 minutes of retracing my steps, I finally found the Irish Pub. I was expecting English to be spoken there. All the Guinness and other sayings on the walls were in English, but the bartender didn't speak much. She did understand my inquiry about internet/wifi and said they don't have it, but it’s available in the nearby plaza. After a Guinness and a sandwich to take back to Lucy, I found a cafe/bar on the plaza that said they do have wifi and are open from 8 am to 8 pm.
While I acknowledge that my lack of Italian is an issue, I have found throughout my travels--it's human nature for people to offer directions when asked, even if they don't know the right answer--they'll make a guess (so often wrong!) rather than disappoint me by saying they don't know.
On the road to Venice
Early Saturday morning. Travel day coming--rest for legs (and hopefully less misdirection on the road!). We did most of the Alta Bergamo tour suggested in Walking in Italy, a book I brought along. 'Starting with the clock tower and views of the city, then the cathedral, on to the house & museum of Donizettiano, one of Lucy's favorite opera composers. We took the funicular (cable car) up to Castle San Vigilio. More views. 'Had a tasty lunch at a nice restaurant overlooking a beautiful farming valley. Skies were beginning to clear. In the distance we could see a large snowcapped mountain in the Alps. Stops at a couple of museums in the city, the second being the Rocca a fortress perched above the massive stone city walls. We then descended several blocks, in search of Lotto's 16th century frescos at San Michael al Pozzo Bianco. We went past it, further down the hill, before realizing it must to behind us. Hiking back up the hill, we found it closed! I was proud of my trek back up to the Citta Alta (high city) without a breather. It was nice that our hotel was only another block from the crest. Time for a well-deserved shower and nap. Still not hungry after the big lunch, on our evening walk to stretch sore legs, we selected a couple of pieces of pizza to bring back for late evening snacks.
Given our record of far-exceeding projected travel times, I suggested to Lucy we might want to pick one stop from 3 places of interest on our way to Venice--Lago di Garda, Verona and Padua. She declared we must stop in Verona--to get a keepsake for Juliet (our 2-year old granddaughter--who must be missing us, as we are her!), given that it was Shakespeare's setting for Romeo & Juliet.
We got to Venice
Mid-morning yesterday (Saturday) I wasn't sure where we'd end up. After breakfast at the hotel, we packed the Citroen and stopped to fuel up. There were 3 choices and to levels of labeling. Up above it said "Diesel" on both the right and the left, but at the handle, the left side said "Gasolina". I thought about asking for help, but decided the left side must be regular and the middle high octane. I proceeded to fill up. Then began the quest for the autostrada. As we entered a limited access road, I saw we were on our way back to Como and began looking for an opportunity to turn around, when the car began to seriously sputter. Fortunately, I was able to get on to a side street and park before it died. I immediately concluded I must have filled the tank with diesel. My first impulse was to go walking, in search of a garage. Lucy had the forethought to pull out the rental car assistance info. Thankfully, we have the global phone, although it took 3 calls before an operator took down our location and promised help was on the way--in "20" minutes. Most of an hour later, a small flatbed arrived. The driver told me he thought it was probably failed fuel pump, and I want to believe he's right (When we get fuel next, I'll for sure ask and then know). We caught a cab to the Bergamo airport, where Budget gave us another Citroen and we were back on the road--the toll autostrada, where suggested speeds are 110 km in the left, fast lane. I cruised at about 130 to 140 kph (80 - 85 mph), moving to the center lane as frequent cars doing upwards of 160 (100 mph) came zooming by.
It was early afternoon and at autostrada speed, we decided we had time to stop at Verona. With help from only 1 local, we found the old center of the city. After searching for a parking lot with an open space, we lucked out and found a curbside spot a block from the famous statue of Julieta. Holding her right breast is suppose to bring good fortune. At the shot next door, Lucy had an apron embroidered for Kathryn and a backpack for Juliet.
http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/Verona#
We made it back to the autostrada, headed towards Venezia (Venice). I had an email from Valentina, here at the Dormus Orsoni, giving us parking options, including parking on the mainland and catching a 10-minute train ride in to Venice. Given our late afternoon arrival, I decided to save time by driving as far as possible and paying the higher nightly rate at the edge of the city. BUT, we got in a line to park that was unbelievably slow. When we finally did park, there were lots of empty spaces, so I don't know what the delay was about. In any case, the vaporetto (water bus) was only a block away. It was dark (about 7 pm), but we managed to get on the right vaporetto and off at the right stop (Giglio), from which it was about a 5 minute walk on the cobbled walkway along the canal and then in to a narrow passageway to Domus Orsoni, where we were still expected.
http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/Venice#
Venice in a day
I wish I'd planned for more time, but we saw a lot of Venice yesterday. It's Monday morning. It will soon be breakfast time here at Domus Orsoni. 'Turns out it's affiliated with a mosaic school. Most of the other guests in this small domus (home) are here to attend the class starting today. After a pleasant chat with a couple from Alberta (she's a student in the mosaic class), we hopped a vaporetto along the Grand Canal, about a 10 minute walk from Domus Orsoni, which is located in Cannaregio--a northern island in Venice, the Jewish ghetto--so named in the 16th century, when Jews were required to live in this area and were locked in at night.
On the Grand Canal vaporetto ride yesterday morning, the sun was shining. It was crowded, as most are. I managed to get a spot standing at the bow and snapped shot after shot as we wended our way through lots of other canal traffic, including gondolas paddled by colorful skippers and water taxis. We got off at St. Mark's Plaza. Lots of walkers, NO motorized traffic other than in the water. Many canals, with quaint bridges. While Lucy entered beckoning shops, I sat on some of the bridges, taking pics of the canals, with colorful buildings crowding in, the gondola oarsmen ducking while gliding under other low bridges nearby. We didn't think twice about skipping the long line waiting to get in to St. Mark's basilica. We meandered though the San Marco neighborhood for a couple of hours, including a tasty lunch (I had spaghetti with fresh fish, Lucy had a salad with lots in it). We hiked over the dangerous-looking Academy Bridge--a simple wooden structure meant to be temporary about 75 years ago. Still in use, though some of the wooden supports are seriously decaying (see pic). The line to get in to the Academy Gallery wasn't long. But, my legs were protesting. And, out front of the gallery was a handsome young Brit selling tickets to the opera in the evening. Lucy bought (Since my teen years, I have a predictable experience at high-brow concerts--I fall asleep). We proceeded to catch the vaporetto, came back to Domus Orsoni for a shower and nap and check of email on their computer ('still no luck getting a wifi signal strong enough, so I'm expecting to wait 'til I get home to "publish").
We took another vaporetto to the Rialto stop for Lucy's opera (a selection of familiar pieces, only lasting a couple of hours). I roamed the northern sector of San Marco, getting off track at one point (everyone talks about getting lost in Venice as to be expected and welcomed as part of being here). A sandwich and a glass of red wine at a small place, opposite a lovely chapel--not a lot of lighting on churches at night, so most of the night pics won't be very bright or sharp. The weather has been perfect here in Venice, Sunny, cool, but not cold.
On to Bologna
Wee hours of the morning, Tuesday. There’s wifi here at Albergo Garisenda in the heart of the old city of Bologna! I’ve managed to link to my home computer (Logmein) and move my notes from the road from my laptop to home . ‘Still no way to load pics from the camera.
Leaving Venice yesterday morning I did it again! ‘Time to refuel our 2nd rental car, after the first died, following refueling. The 3 choices of fuel at the pump yesterday were different than in Bergamo. I had told myself I was going to get help the next time, before choosing a fuel. But, again I went for what I read as “gasoline” and a few km down the road we were dead on the shoulder! During the hour + wait for Budget to bring us a 3rd car, Lucy found a brief discussion of fuels in our Lonely Planet guide—“gasolio” IS diesel!! I try not to dwell on what the financial consequences will be. We got standard, not extra insurance. I did an internet search on the consequences of putting diesel in a gas-powered car. ;No mention of destroying the catalytic converter. Basically, the diesel just needs to get flushed out of the engine and tank. I bet they’ve done it before. I can’t be the first stupid American tourist!
We did our usual ask, go a ways, find someone else to ask, in making our way to this albergo (city inn) a block from the central plaza here in Bologna. We explored the massive church and took pics of the statue of Hercules. Having missed lunch, we were ready for dinner before the rest of the country was—dinner in Italy begins after 7 pm. We found a bar serving bread and a good selection of cold cuts (boloney—this is where it got its start!). With a good glass of wine, it made a meal.
http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/Bologna#
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