Sept. 8 - 22, 2004
Subject: John's China-Tibet Journey, Log I
Greeting from the business center at Howard Johnson's 5 Star hotel in Ti'an, gateway to the Terra-Cotta warriors. It's been a packed first 6 days. (I skipped yet another huge family-style meal to send this to you--unlike MY trips, where I lose weight, I'll be lucky to return home with less than an extra 10 lbs!)
A few months ago I met Larry and Maria at a mutual friend's house. They enthusiastically spoke of their upcoming trip to China and Tibet with Madi. Since seeing a photo of Lhasa as a boy I've wanted to visit Tibet. With little hesitation I signed on. As did Lucy. As did neighbor, Dianne. 'Never planned so little for a trip. In part because I've been so slammed by stuff at home, but also because it's a tour--I'm a member of the group. Too much knowledge would make me want to stray ('Been given orders: no "Free Tibet" T shirts, get meds for high altitude, never mind I had no problems high in the Andes more than half a lifetime ago...).
We flew from Sea-Tac last Wednesday, then on to Shanghai, never seeing the sun set but losing a day. 'Not the swarthy city of legend, but a sparkling megalopolis of 16 million, with staggering transformation, night skyline of skyscrapers sprinkled with color.
Temples, museums and shopping--cornerstones of Madi tours (perhaps more on Madi later, an American born "Tibetan physician" with healing skills at age 2). Most of our large group of 40 have some penchant for the supernatural. Nice, interesting people. We got off to a running start at the silk rug factory in Shanghai.
Night 3 in Guilin. While other areas of China probably provide scenery for those paintings of layered hills, Guilin has thousands of steep crags jutting up in to the sky. After frowning on Lucy's interest in a pricey painting at a gallery, I scored several landscapes that night on the street, meeting the alleged art "professor" in person. Day 4 we floated the River Li, photogenic vistas with each bend in the river. Ended up at Yangshou for the night.
Yesterday morning we flew here to Ti'an, birthplace of many Chinese dynasties, along a fertile tributary of the Yellow River. Museum yesterday, jade factory and Terra-Cotta warriors today. 'Time to sneak out to the walled city and see what better deals I can find.
One more day before Tibet...
John
John's China-Tibet Journey, Log II
Greetings from Lhasa, Tibet. Picking up from my first report, we left Ti'an Thursday morning, flying to Chengdu, China. On the way to the airport Lucy elected to check out my digital camera. She got in to the erase menu. I asked her to stop. She didn't. ALL my photos vanished! While she has her own camera and lots of pictures, all my special compositions are not to be shared. I should get concessions from her for a LONG time.
In Chengdu we visited a Taoist temple and allowed to participate in a ceremony. Most everyone in our group attempted to kneel and stand following the priests' movements. After a couple of ups and downs I decided to do what the visiting Chinese did: stay standing, looking. Except they were bemusedly looking at our group and I was looking at them looking at us. After sharing my observations with a couple of fellow travelers (We have some work to do on synchronized ceremonial kneeling, but for spectator interest we're already there) I realized they didn't appreciate my attempt at humor. Most reported being very moved by the experience. Before departing the temple, Madi took us to a wall with 3 large Chinese raised figures, representing health, wealth and happiness. We were encouraged, from about 30 feet away, to close our eyes, spin 3 times and walk toward the wall, letting our intuitiveness take us to one of the raised figures (there was blank wall between the figures). Lucy succeeded--reached out and touched "wealth". Not having been in the spirit of the ceremony, I hesitated, then tried. Rather than head toward the wall, I meandered off at about a 60 degree angle to the left and would have fallen in to a very large, smoking incense pot if not intercepted.
Friday, after another big breakfast we headed for the airport and the flight to Tibet. (I've climbed on 2 scales in hotel rooms and been amazed that I have not gained weight. Several group members have been fairly ill, mostly stomach stuff. I've felt fine, aside from tired at times. All stops in China were quite humid.) The flight over the Himalayas was splendid. Lots of clouds but also many clearings. Many small, gem-like lakes, some blue, others gray-green. In the valleys there were sparse settlements, some clinging to hillsides.
On arrival at the Lhasa airport it was warm at mid-day, but the air was wonderfully fresh (almost 12,000' elevation). We stopped at a village, handed out trinkets we were encouraged to bring. Very photogenic, friendly people (Lucy's forbidden to touch my camera from now on!). After arriving at the Lhasa Hotel, we proceeded to Larry and Maria's Tibetan marriage, filmed by the local tv station.
Friday, our first full day in Lhasa, we first visited Potala Palace, winter home of the Dalai Lamas. A picture of the huge palace perched on a hillside high above the city is the image I have from childhood that has drawn me to Tibet. At lunch I decided to go find a place to download our pictures to cds, freeing up our digital cards. I intended to catch up with the group at the next destination, a temple, but finding the shop to burn the cds proved more time-consuming that I anticipated. It's not like traveling in Latin America, where, even if I didn't speak Spanish, I could get some idea across. Not many Tibetans understand any English nor my nonverbal cues. But I finally made it to the camera shop, decided it was too late to catch the group in the temple, went back to the lunch site to find no bus. I went in to ask restaurant staff if I could hire a rickshaw to take me back to the hotel. They said no, too far, take a cab or bus. Then a gal volunteered she was getting off in 5 minutes and was going my way. At first I thought she had her own car. In fact, she was taking the bus going by our hotel and told me where to get off.
Consistently pleasant people, including the street vendors. I've been making lots of purchases--singing bowls, pendants, an old lock. Neighboring vendors almost tear me apart after watching me complete a purchase. While I usually barter things down to less than half of asking price, obviously I'm paying enough that others want similar negotiations with me.
Today we visited a monastery high up on a mountain top. Dusty, switchback road. Beautiful day. We were given shawls and allowed to walk between all the rows of about 250 chanting monks in a darkened, rug-walled ceremonial hall. I made eye contact with many monks. They didn't seem all that other-worldly. It was a nice experience.
Tomorrow we visit another monastery and a rug factory. I'm going to have to buy a bag, to put all my "deals" in. The following morning is the long flight to Beijing, where we spend only 2 nights before the really long flight home.
John's China-Tibet Journey, 3rd and final episode
Sunday we visited another monastery, on a hillside near Lhasa. A Buddha statue reportedly answers questions. I woke up that morning with the looming deadline for our 2003 income tax return (extended to October 15) on my mind. So, the question that came to mind: "Will the IRS audit me in the next 5 years?" I got no answer, not even a glimmer. Next we participated in another ceremony with monks. Fewer than the day before, but also an ensemble of horns and percussion. Both chanting and playing was quite pleasant.
Sunday afternoon Lucy and I skipped group activities to return to a Lhasa market. 'Didn't get a prayer rug that the merchant wouldn't part with for what we offered. We did buy some prayer wheels, thangkas (Buddhist paintings) and T-shirts.
Monday morning prior to leaving for the airport I decided I had time to get a haircut. I stepped in to a barber shop in the city, was escorted to a chair, where a gal commenced to shampoo and massage my head. After several minutes of massage, I made a motion with my fingers, beginning to worry she thought I came in only for a scalp massage. After a rinse, I was led to another chair where a guy cut my hair. Initially he was only going to take off a little. I repeatedly gestured for shorter, "like a monk". Shorter I got. While I'm unsure that I saw "beyond the veil" as Madi promised in her promo on the trip, I leave Tibet manifestly changed in outward appearance! When I went to pay, the cashier held up 2 fingers. I disappointedly assumed she wanted 200 yuen, which would be almost $20. Noting my expression, she showed me a 20 yuen bill--with 10 yuen tips to both masseuse and barber, I still spend less than $4.
Much of yesterday was spent at airports and in the air. 'Arrived in Beijing about 10 p.m. 'Put Lucy to bed after a late dinner and went looking for email. This part of Beijing feels very cosmopolitan. The business center at the hotel was closed. When open their rate is 2 yuen/minute. That works out to almost $15/hour! Rip off. I asked at the desk and was told there was an open e cafe about 10 minutes away. Walked about that far, asked, was told the place upstairs was closed. 'Approached by a rickshaw driver--bike with a seat for 2 small people or me. He peddled me about 5 minutes to this place. Rate here: 3 yuen per HOUR! That's 40 times cheaper than the hotel business center. As I climbed in to the rickshaw I asked how much. I thought he said "10". I said: "For 10, okay". About 6 blocks later, he asked for 100 yuen! I said no way, told him we agreed on 10. He refused my 10. I eventually offered 15. He demanded 20. I told him take the 15 or nothing and he took the 15. It was a 20 minute walk back to the hotel. Turn right just past the KFC. So, my 3 yuen hour here at stall 25 in the email cafe packed with about 50 Chinese (either side of me playing video games) really cost me 18 yuen, which would get me 9 minutes at the hotel business center. I'm back again at this email site, for this final chronicle. Both evenings have been fresh, cool, not very humid--nice for walking. 'Feels safe here, although last night I first stopped in at a hotel, thinking it might be the open email site, and the desk guy wasn't friendly--barked in response to my English questioning.
Today was busy. We stopped at a cloisonné workshop and store, then on to the Great Wall. Only 3 of us made it to the top and I was the senior of the group. Now I know why athletes train at high altitudes. I felt strong, although, as always, I worked up a profuse sweat. After lunch it was on to the Forbidden City. The roof lines were impressive, but we didn't have much access to interiors. Next we rode in rickshaws to a teahouse, then on to our final dinner. Our guide got us a special rate on Beijing 2008 (Olympics) hats and T-shirts. We continued to shop on the way back to the hotel and at the hotel, until I scooted off to walk to this email spot.
A little while ago I thought I'd lost this composition. Before I do, I'm going to send it. Hopefully I'll take time after arriving home to reflect on the trip in a summing-up email.
John
China-Tibet Summary
On return to Willamette High School after my NSF summer school at NM Highlands U, the principal asked me what I liked best. Without hesitation, I answered: "The people". This Madi Nolan Pacific Delight Tour group was special. All of us so unique, choosing to come along for our own so right reasons. My exposure to the spiritual openness of the others was too brief to dislodge me from my pragmatic shelf. I did get a kick from finding a "ghost image" in one of my photos (Madi blessed cameras, promising they could expose spirits from other dimensions).
One of the strongest arguments timeshare sellers make: If you don't pamper yourself, buy from us and you'll be sure to treat yourself to the luxury you deserve. I love designing my own vacations. While I enjoy staying in nicer places at times, "5-star" is not in my repertoire. The hotels, their air conditioning and their dining fares were sumptuous. Amazingly, I didn't gain weight, even prior to coming down with this respiratory crud on the flight home.
I could have skipped, besides numerous meals, the lengthy stops at pricey tourist show rooms, leaving more time to barter with street vendors (True, missing some of the high-end museum quality stuff). There were opportunities to meander alone, meet Chinese and Tibetans, but cultural immersion is diminished with such a busy group schedule.
So, does this tour impact my back-burner idea of being a Latin American outside travel agent? Too soon to say. Favorite, familiar haunts do beckon. Considered itineraries: 1) The Ecuadorian Sierra and Upper Amazon; 2) Highland markets of Guatemala, Mayan ruins and Honduran Bay Islands; and 3) Oaxaca's markets, ruins and the Mexican Pacific Coast. Years ago I worked with a social worker turned travel agent. It occurred to me skills for both professions include ability to match clients to fitting opportunities. Then again, caretaking some group members could begin to feel like I never retired from social work! There are so many other parts of the world to experience for the first time. Then again, if enough of you clamor for me to take you to one or all of the above, I will consider it, at an enticing fee…
Meanwhile, enough: I've got to get my income tax done.
John
