Oaxaca 2020

2/14/20 Oaxaca-Huatulco Blog, Feb 2020

Friday night, Oaxaca.  Our Wed flights were all-in-all smooth.  Concerned about only a 45-minute layover in LAX, I asked for assistance deplaning & a wheel chair was waiting for me.  It was not that far between Delta gates.  I  joined up with Mary and Deanna for the flights to MEX and on to Oaxaca.  My roller bag barely fit in the smaller overhead on the flight to Oaxaca, but it did, so while Mary & Deanna were waiting for their checked bags, I bought collectivo tickets & we were on on our way in to downtown Oaxaca and CasAntica, converted 15^th century monastery where we have stayed before.  Grand suite on the 3^rd floor.  Mary & Deanna’s king bed was super hard.  Other than that, lovely location.  Staff seemed less with it than in the past.

We briefly freshened up Wed night and went across the street to El Catedral for a wonderful dinner.  Guitarist was great, as was his voice.  Food was excellent, staff attentive.

Thursday morning, we asked for a taxi, made a deal with Pepe to accompany us through the market at Zaachila, about half an hour south of the city.  He was perfect—accommodating, pleasant.  We began by visiting the cemetery & the street with Day of the Dead murals.  Then through the market, Mary & Deanna buying some things, catching pics of vendors, stopping for helados (ice cream).  Regrettably, we failed to get Pepe’s phone #--to call for future trips in Oaxaca.

Thursday eve we went to a small pizza place around the corner from the hotel, remembering it favorably from prior stays at CasAntica.  It was OK, but we were less impressed than in the past.

Friday morning, we took the 2-decker sight-seeing bus that left a block from CasAntica.  Tour guide was Spanish-speaking.  Tour went north—Reforma neighborhood.  We had expected to see more churches.  ‘Nice morning.  We had some close calls dodging overhanging branches.

We checked with El Catedral about Valentine’s Day eve reservations.  Already all taken, we went there for a late lunch instead.  Again, very happy with our meals & the service.   

After lunch, we moved to Hotel Casona de Oaxaca, a few blocks from CasAntica, as when we reserved a few weeks ago, CasAntica didn’t have a room that worked for the 3 of us.   A block west of the zocalo, we did some people watching along the zocalo & bought some clothing from street vendors.

Our room at La Casona was less suite-like than the layout at CasAntica—one room.  But high ceiling.  Mary & Deanna’s beds more comfortable that the rock-hard king bed at CasAntica.  My pullout had inners-spring mattress.  Not that uncomfortable, but the gals heard me tossing & turning the first night.

Saturday morning we had breakfast with Ann, sister of Julie, my dear co-worker of many years at the state hospital.  Some year ago, Julie & Steve began wintering here in Oaxaca.  They loved it so much Ann & her partner, Bob, Seattleites, began wintering here too.  3 years ago, Julie began having health issues that have prevented her from coming to Mexico.   Ann & Bob continue to come here for a few winter months—a fine snowbird option to wintering in Seattle. 

Ann mentioned numerous things to do here.  Given we are leaving in the morning, we weren’t able to follow up on many this time.  We did follow her suggestion for lunch at Marco Polo, along El Llano, where the shrimp are more than plentiful.  After cabbing to the restaurant, we walked back, by way of Santo Domingo church & neighborhood.  Unable to eat her 3rd shrimp taco, Mary found an old man carrying a load, to give it to.  He clearly was most appreciative.

Sunday ride in Andres’ taxi went smoothly, but was long—7 to 8 hours.  ‘Makes the 1-hour plane flight look like the better option, even with rides to & from airports.  We got 5 kilos of Finca El Pacifico organic green coffee beans, as we descended toward the coast.  While Mary has closed her Saturday market booth, she continues to roast for her regulars—including our Pop’s Cottage vacation rental. We got to Huatulco about 5 pm.  At Holiday Inn, we joined up with Sevenia & her friend, Trina.  Sevenia is a former housemate of Deanna’s.  Trina is her friend of many years.

I have a king bed room to myself, main floor, 2 doors from the pool, Marina view—I awake daily to sunrise over the harbor.  Mary & Deanna also have Marina view, 2^nd floor, above me.  Sevenia & Trina have another 2^nd floor room.  All beds are super, AC works well—nice digs.

First night meal at Juanita’s, at Chahue Beach.  We were greeted by Juanita, a Canadian who relocated here 23 years ago.  Delicious shrimp tacos.

Monday, we taxied to Playa La Entrega.  Sat under umbrellas, had guacamole & drinks.  Snorkeled. Never a strong swimmer, I used to be at ease, venturing out with mask & fins, in search of coral & colorful fish.  I’m not as comfortable now, even though my rotator cuff tear isn’t noticeably painful.

For dinner, we went in to Crucecita, to Alfredo’s for dinner.   A couple years ago, Mary took a cooking class from Alfredo.  He joined our table for awhile.  Live music provided by a young gal from Portland, lovely voice.  She asked for suggestions from the audience.  Alas, didn’t know my request—“Spanish Boots of Spanish Leather”.

Slow day Tuesday.  Buffet breakfast here at the Holiday Inn, pool time.  Early dinner at highly-rated Mercader, small restaurant just through the zocalo.  I enjoyed my  Pad Thai.  ‘Small place, reservation recommended.

Wed am, Mary & I went to Niko’s Organic Coffee for breakfast.  ‘Chatted with a retired gal from Vancouver Island.  She spends 4-5 winter months here with her Peruvian husband.  She was enjoying her coffee after a morning bike ride.

I then went next door to G&A Image Care, for a pedicure and haircut.  The shop owner remembered me—from my haircut a couple of years ago.

Deanna had reserved a sunset sailing from marina nest door, for 3:15 pm.  By 3:45, we began to wonder.  We then realized the reservation was for Thursday, NOT Wednesday!  Back to the pool.  If we’d been on schedule, we would have been treated to an amazing sunset, as we caught glimpses of it as we arrived at Mama Elza's, near Chahue Beach, for burgers, fries & carrot cake for dinner.  Mama Elza’s is a glorified food cart with tasteful outdoor seating.  Elza’s friendly, English-speaking son again served us, claimed he remembered us from past visits.

Thursday, Mary, Deanna & Trina took a road trip along the coast, with Andres, visiting Zipolite, Mazunte, stopping to snorkel at our off the beaten path beach just east of Puerto Angel.

Friday morning, we boarded Johan’s outboard, for a trip along the coast.  ‘No luck finding por-uses, whales or big sea turtles.  We stopped to snorkel at Playa La India.  Then beached at Playa Maguey.  Mary’s tummy was rumbling, so she and I caught a cab from there, while the other gals boated back to Santa Cruz with Johan, reporting afternoon wind picking up, making the ride rougher—Mary was happy she jumped ship!

We had been looking forward to Friday Tacos at Juanita’s, Chahue Marina—which we’d heard of our first night in Huatulco.  Arriving just before 5 pm Happy Hour, we were informed taco special ended at 4.  Oh, well.  We stayed for happy hour & sunset.

Mary & I then proceeded to Las Brisas, Tongolunda Bay, our fancier lodging for our final 4 nights.  Huge resort built in to the hillside.  Most guests are all-inclusive.  We have just breakfast included.  While described as “garden-view”, we do have ocean views, through big trees.

The breakfast buffet is huge.  I can’t imagine going all-inclusive.  I wasn’t remotely ready for eating again mid-day.  Deanna joined us for the evening.  We were all disappointed with our fish dinners at one of the Las Brisa restaurants.  Mary’s fish tacos were the worst.  We bid Deanna farewell, as she cabbed back to Holiday Inn for a last night sharing the room with Sevenia & Trian.  They flew home Sunday.

Sunday, Mary & I had ocean front seating for breakfast buffet at El Mexicano Restaurant.  We staked out our beach chairs, proceeded to snorkel around the reef in the bay, then moved on to the adult-only pool, for more swimming & reclining in the shaded lounge chairs, before requesting a little car to bring us back to our room, to rest during the heat of mid-day.

Each place we’ve stayed Internet has been readily available.  I am learning that some emails aren’t reaching me.  Others get stuck in my outbox.  Despite those glitches, I’ve taken care of Lowry Rentals business—filled 3 vacancies with what look like excellent new tenants.  It came down to the wire, but with a single day to spare, I got takers for 2 Whistler Westin stays, Feb 22-25 & 25-29. Several months ago, when I found last week of Feb available, I grabbed it, confident that I could flip it.  3 important Vancouver Habitat volunteers are going to take all nights.

Sunday afternoon, Mary & I took a taxi in to Hotel Villa Blanca for an early dinner.  Mary’s favorite place to stay in Huatulco, but no luck getting a room in the winter there—Canadian regulars tie up the whole place.  Mary came in late September, with her friend Katie.  when Villablanca had rooms—and at a discounted rate—because it was much hotter & more humid that time of year—no wonder rooms are available then—definitely low season. 

Andres joined us at Villablanca, for a drink, bringing along his wife & lovely 3-yo daughter.

Monday, after breakfast buffet, we taxied in to town for last-minute shopping.  Mary found a leather belt for Paul, I got shirts for the grandkids.  Back to the beach in the afternoon, after the heat of the day, for one more snorkel & reclining in the shade.

We caught a ride up to the orange tower neighborhood of the huge Las Brisas resort, to capture the sunset.  

Andres took us to the airport at 8 am Tuesday.  He took pics of Mary & me in front of the HUATULCO sign near the entrance to Las Brisas.  

Deanna warned us that the LAX customs + change of planes would be an ordeal.  Departing Huatulco, we asked for wheelchairs for both Mary & me.  They were waiting in MEX and allowed us to bypass some long lines.  And, 2 more wheel chairs for us in LAX, where they were a huge help!  I intend to play the frail elder card with future air travel!