2/14/20 Oaxaca-Huatulco Blog, Feb 2020
Friday night, Oaxaca.
Our Wed flights were all-in-all smooth.
Concerned about only a 45-minute layover in LAX, I asked for assistance
deplaning & a wheel chair was waiting for me. It was not that far between Delta gates. I joined
up with Mary and Deanna for the flights to MEX and on to Oaxaca. My roller bag barely fit in the smaller
overhead on the flight to Oaxaca, but it did, so while Mary & Deanna were
waiting for their checked bags, I bought collectivo tickets & we were on on
our way in to downtown Oaxaca and CasAntica, converted 15th century
monastery where we have stayed before. Grand
suite on the 3rd floor. Mary
& Deanna’s king bed was super hard.
Other than that, lovely location.
Staff seemed less with it than in the past.
We briefly freshened up Wed night and went across the street
to El Catedral for a wonderful dinner.
Guitarist was great, as was his voice.
Food was excellent, staff attentive.
Thursday morning, we asked for a taxi, made a deal with Pepe
to accompany us through the market at Zaachila, about half an hour south of the
city. He was perfect—accommodating,
pleasant. We began by visiting the
cemetery & the street with Day of the Dead murals. Then through the market, Mary & Deanna
buying some things, catching pics of vendors, stopping for helados (ice
cream). Regrettably, we failed to get
Pepe’s phone #--to call for future trips in Oaxaca.
Thursday eve we went to a small pizza place around the
corner from the hotel, remembering it favorably from prior stays at
CasAntica. It was OK, but we were less
impressed than in the past.
Friday morning, we took the 2-decker sight-seeing bus that
left a block from CasAntica. Tour guide
was Spanish-speaking. Tour went
north—Reforma neighborhood. We had
expected to see more churches. ‘Nice
morning. We had some close calls dodging
overhanging branches.
We checked with El Catedral about Valentine’s Day eve reservations. Already all taken, we went there for a late lunch
instead. Again, very happy with our meals
& the service.
After lunch, we moved to Hotel Casona de Oaxaca, a few
blocks from CasAntica, as when we reserved a few weeks ago, CasAntica didn’t
have a room that worked for the 3 of us.
A block west of the zocalo, we did some people watching along the zocalo
& bought some clothing from street vendors.
Our room at La Casona was less suite-like than the layout at
CasAntica—one room. But high
ceiling. Mary & Deanna’s beds more
comfortable that the rock-hard king bed at CasAntica. My pullout had inners-spring mattress. Not that uncomfortable, but the gals heard me
tossing & turning the first night.
Saturday morning we had breakfast with Ann, sister of Julie,
my dear co-worker of many years at the state hospital. Some year ago, Julie & Steve began
wintering here in Oaxaca. They loved it
so much Ann & her partner, Bob, Seattleites, began wintering here too. 3 years ago, Julie began having health issues
that have prevented her from coming to Mexico.
Ann & Bob continue to come here for a few winter months—a fine
snowbird option to wintering in Seattle.
Ann mentioned numerous things to do here. Given we are leaving in the morning, we weren’t
able to follow up on many this time. We
did follow her suggestion for lunch at Marco Polo, along El Llano, where the shrimp
are more than plentiful. After cabbing
to the restaurant, we walked back, by way of Santo Domingo church &
neighborhood. Unable to eat her 3rd
shrimp taco, Mary found an old man carrying a load, to give it to. He clearly was most appreciative.
Sunday ride in Andres’ taxi went smoothly, but was long—7 to
8 hours. ‘Makes the 1-hour plane flight
look like the better option, even with rides to & from airports. We got 5 kilos of Finca El Pacifico organic green
coffee beans, as we descended toward the coast.
While Mary has closed her Saturday market booth, she continues to roast
for her regulars—including our Pop’s Cottage vacation rental. We got to
Huatulco about 5 pm. At Holiday Inn, we
joined up with Sevenia & her friend, Trina.
Sevenia is a former housemate of Deanna’s. Trina is her friend of many years.
I have a king bed room to myself, main floor, 2 doors from
the pool, Marina view—I awake daily to sunrise over the harbor. Mary & Deanna also have Marina view, 2nd
floor, above me. Sevenia & Trina
have another 2nd floor room.
All beds are super, AC works well—nice digs.
First night meal at Juanita’s, at Chahue Beach. We were greeted by Juanita, a Canadian who
relocated here 23 years ago. Delicious
shrimp tacos.
Monday, we taxied to Playa La Entrega. Sat under umbrellas, had guacamole & drinks. Snorkeled. Never a strong swimmer, I used to
be at ease, venturing out with mask & fins, in search of coral &
colorful fish. I’m not as comfortable
now, even though my rotator cuff tear isn’t noticeably painful.
For dinner, we went in to Crucecita, to Alfredo’s for dinner. A couple years ago, Mary took a cooking
class from Alfredo. He joined our table for
awhile. Live music provided by a young
gal from Portland, lovely voice. She
asked for suggestions from the audience.
Alas, didn’t know my request—“Spanish Boots of Spanish Leather”.
Slow day Tuesday. Buffet
breakfast here at the Holiday Inn, pool time.
Early dinner at highly-rated Mercader, small restaurant just through the
zocalo. I enjoyed my Pad Thai. ‘Small place, reservation recommended.
Wed am, Mary & I went to Niko’s Organic Coffee for breakfast. ‘Chatted with a retired gal from Vancouver
Island. She spends 4-5 winter months
here with her Peruvian husband. She was enjoying
her coffee after a morning bike ride.
I then went next door to G&A Image Care, for a pedicure
and haircut. The shop owner remembered
me—from my haircut a couple of years ago.
Deanna had reserved a sunset sailing from marina nest door,
for 3:15 pm. By 3:45, we began to
wonder. We then realized the reservation
was for Thursday, NOT Wednesday! Back to
the pool. If we’d been on schedule, we
would have been treated to an amazing sunset, as we caught glimpses of it as we
arrived at Mama Elza's, near Chahue Beach, for burgers, fries & carrot cake
for dinner. Mama Elza’s is a glorified food
cart with tasteful outdoor seating.
Elza’s friendly, English-speaking son again served us, claimed he
remembered us from past visits.
Thursday, Mary, Deanna & Trina took a road trip along
the coast, with Andres, visiting Zipolite, Mazunte, stopping to snorkel at our off
the beaten path beach just east of Puerto Angel.
Friday morning, we boarded Johan’s outboard, for a trip
along the coast. ‘No luck finding
por-uses, whales or big sea turtles. We
stopped to snorkel at Playa La India.
Then beached at Playa Maguey.
Mary’s tummy was rumbling, so she and I caught a cab from there, while
the other gals boated back to Santa Cruz with Johan, reporting afternoon wind
picking up, making the ride rougher—Mary was happy she jumped ship!
We had been looking forward to Friday Tacos at Juanita’s,
Chahue Marina—which we’d heard of our first night in Huatulco. Arriving just before 5 pm Happy Hour, we were
informed taco special ended at 4. Oh,
well. We stayed for happy hour &
sunset.
Mary & I then proceeded to Las Brisas, Tongolunda Bay, our
fancier lodging for our final 4 nights.
Huge resort built in to the hillside.
Most guests are all-inclusive. We
have just breakfast included. While
described as “garden-view”, we do have ocean views, through big trees.
The breakfast buffet is huge. I can’t imagine going all-inclusive. I wasn’t remotely ready for eating again mid-day. Deanna joined us for the evening. We were all disappointed with our fish
dinners at one of the Las Brisa restaurants.
Mary’s fish tacos were the worst.
We bid Deanna farewell, as she cabbed back to Holiday Inn for a last
night sharing the room with Sevenia & Trian. They flew home Sunday.
Sunday, Mary & I had ocean front seating for breakfast
buffet at El Mexicano Restaurant. We
staked out our beach chairs, proceeded to snorkel around the reef in the bay,
then moved on to the adult-only pool, for more swimming & reclining in the
shaded lounge chairs, before requesting a little car to bring us back to our
room, to rest during the heat of mid-day.
Each place we’ve stayed Internet has been readily
available. I am learning that some
emails aren’t reaching me. Others get
stuck in my outbox. Despite those
glitches, I’ve taken care of Lowry Rentals business—filled 3 vacancies with
what look like excellent new tenants. It
came down to the wire, but with a single day to spare, I got takers for 2 Whistler
Westin stays, Feb 22-25 & 25-29. Several months ago, when I found last week
of Feb available, I grabbed it, confident that I could flip it. 3 important Vancouver Habitat volunteers are
going to take all nights.
Sunday afternoon, Mary & I took a taxi in to Hotel Villa
Blanca for an early dinner. Mary’s favorite
place to stay in Huatulco, but no luck getting a room in the winter
there—Canadian regulars tie up the whole place.
Mary came in late September, with her friend Katie. when Villablanca had rooms—and at a
discounted rate—because it was much hotter & more humid that time of
year—no wonder rooms are available then—definitely low season.
Monday, after breakfast buffet, we taxied in to town for
last-minute shopping. Mary found a leather
belt for Paul, I got shirts for the grandkids.
Back to the beach in the afternoon, after the heat of the day, for one
more snorkel & reclining in the shade.
We caught a ride up to the orange tower neighborhood of the
huge Las Brisas resort, to capture the sunset.
Andres took us to the airport at 8 am Tuesday. He took pics of Mary & me in front of the
HUATULCO sign near the entrance to Las Brisas.
Deanna warned us that the LAX customs + change of planes would be an ordeal. Departing Huatulco, we asked for wheelchairs for both Mary & me. They were waiting in MEX and allowed us to bypass some long lines. And, 2 more wheel chairs for us in LAX, where they were a huge help! I intend to play the frail elder card with future air travel!
Deanna warned us that the LAX customs + change of planes would be an ordeal. Departing Huatulco, we asked for wheelchairs for both Mary & me. They were waiting in MEX and allowed us to bypass some long lines. And, 2 more wheel chairs for us in LAX, where they were a huge help! I intend to play the frail elder card with future air travel!
1 comment:
Greatly appreciate the travel tips and where to eat....
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