Friday, December 3, 2010

Thanksgiving 2010 Road Trip






Thanksgiving Road Trip, 2010

We picked up the 10' U-Haul on Friday. 10' is the smallest truck for rent. Even so, we had lots of spare room, after Nate helped load the electronic piano, the desk, the sideboard, the cello & a bunch of smaller things, including photos. This trip has been in the planning stage for months. Mostly taking Sanny (Lucy's mother) things to Dustin & Danielle's new home in Gilbert, just outside Phoenix.

We hope the pet-support team of Nate, Collen & housekeeper Kathy will function well. After returning from Starbuck's to get Lucy's tennis shoes, we were off, Mapquest predicting about 7.5 hours to Ashland. The bucket seats in the U-Haul are comfortable, but there's no room to tilt the seat back. North of Eugene, I switched driving duties with Lucy. Even tho' she complains about night vision behind the wheel, I had to remind her several times it was dark before she let me take the wheel back, north of Grants Pass. We made it just in time, facing a dinner window closing at 6:30 pm at Vance & Jane's senior living place in Ashland. We had a relaxed dinner before retiring to their spacious condo, with views toward both the Cascades & the Siskiyous.

Vance was Lucy's step-dad from about the 5th grade until she graduated from Northern Arizona U. Every December 7 the phone rings & it's Vance, wishing Lucy "Happy Birthday". We had last visited him in Bandon, over 20 years ago. Vance remembers teen Dustin skateboarding down the road Tired of the incessant wind on the coast & love of the theater prompted the relocation to Ashland about 3 years ago. Vance is recovering well from a broken hip a few months ago. Treatment for early detected cancer is also going well. They are content with their comfortable life at the retirement center, where they have endless opportunities to go on outings & activities, most of which they pass on.

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/Ashland#

Sunday morning, at the gas station in Ashland, we were told the requirement to chain up to go over the pass had been lifted at 7 a.m. While there was snow for miles, including along Mt Shasta in N California, we didn't encounter falling snow or icy road conditions. The U-Haul cruises well, up to 70-75 mph. It's reassuring that the speed signs in California specify the slower speed limit is for trucks with 3 or more axles.

The Garmin GPS system gave us an un-needed detour as we entered San Jose, but straightened out & got us to the motel in Sunnyvale, near Chip & June's apartment. Since parking is tight in their neighborhood, Chip, Lucy's brother, came & picked us up. Their 2 kids have grown a bunch since spending a week or 2 with us a few summers ago. Richard is now a tall 6th grader & Jamie is a stately Sophomore. They are still settling in to their apartment, having moved in the past couple of weeks. June cooked a delicious dinner. Chip talked about various alternative energy ideas, including hopes of buying a few acres near the central coast to grow crops that can produce bio diesel.

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/ChipS2010#

Monday morning we headed south down Highway 101, destination Santa Barbara. We encountered just a bit of rain, intermittently sunny, with pretty clouds. Vineyards, rolling hills with old oak trees. Glimpses of the blue Pacific at Pismo & as we approached Santa Barbara.

The Garmin did its job & got us to Dave Curland's quaint home in the hills above Santa Barbara Mission. Dave was my Spanish teacher at Willamette HS in Eugene. After I graduated, he moved to the U of O, where he taught & developed a curriculum for teaching languages using video vignettes, something he continues to improve upon to this day, in his mid-80s (http://hispanidades.info/authors/). As my world expanded during my college years, when I was back home in Eugene, Dave was a receptive mentor, on many a visit allowing me to chatter on about all manner of exciting new ideas until the wee hours of the morning. We've kept in touch over the years & met a couple of times in recent years in Eugene, when Dave was visiting there. A few years after Agnes & Dave moved to Santa Barbara, she lost her battle with cancer.

Two of their 3 children came by Monday night to say hi. Susan & Matthew were in their teens when I used to invite myself over, during those mid-60s college years visits. Marty, the youngest, lives in Pacific Palisades, so we didn't get a chance to say hello this visit. One of those times in recent years that I saw Dave in Eugene was during the filming of Marty's movie, Zerophilia, which can be seen on late night Showtime (or is it HBO?) these days.

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/StaBarbara#

Tuesday morning we continued our visit with Dave over breakfast at a sidewalk cafe in fashionable Montecito. Back in the U-Haul, we skirted around Los Angeles, one freeway after another. We had slowdowns a few times, but mostly flew along at 60-70 mph, in the midst of 4 to 8 lanes of traffic. Fortunately the weather was good & we had no close calls. Nonetheless, it was a tiring day. We arrived at Cimarron Golf Resort just about dark. Cimarron is one of our Raintree timeshare properties. The intake gal generously offered the studio suite, along with the one-bedroom, which we made good use of, as Lucy's nephew, Todd & his 3 (Amy, age 11, Christopher, 8, & Eddie, 6), joined us for the night. We found an Asian buffet & more than satiated our hunger, returning to the resort to frolic in the pool & Jacuzzi for about an hour.

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/Cimarron2010#

Wednesday morning, after breakfast at the golf club with Todd & the children, we headed east on our last leg. Smooth trafic until about 40 miles east of Phoenix, when 1-lane traffic over a river held us up for a stretch of something like an hour. Perhaps that bottleneck helped thin out eastbound traffic through Phoenix, which was surprisingly light, given it was the afternoon before Thanksgiving. We got to Dustin & Danielle's just after sunset. The proud first-time homeowners immediately gave us a tour of their wonderful home in Gilbert, about half an hour's drive SE of Phoenix. Cathedral ceilings in the entry, living room & kitchen. 3 smaller bedrooms plus the large master, complete with walk-in closet. Big, fenced back lawn, that their puppy, Cooper (Brittany Spaniel) makes good use of. Then out to dinner with Dustin, Danielle, Kate & Juliet (flew down from Seattle on Monday).

Danielle was apprehensive about cooking her first turkey. It was perfect, as was the entire Thanksgiving meal. The cheesecake too. Dustin's pecan pie took some extra care to firm up, but was also delicious.

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/Gilbert2010#

Dustin & I ran Kate & Juliet to the airport early Friday morning, to get Kate back in time to oversee a bustling Friday night at Ricky J's bar, after a slow week due to snow. Recovering from serious back spasms the day before Thanksgiving, Dustin decided to not join me for a round of golf, while the gals were off to Black Friday shopping. I played well, with the exception of 3-4 holes. The sand traps were unkind to me.

Saturday we drove up to Sedona, with a stop at Montesuma's Castle. We stayed at Sedona Summit, a Diamond resort where we have use via an agreement with Raintree Vacation Club. Very nice, spacious 2-bedroom lockoff, including big Jacuzzi tub. Blue skies with brilliant red spires reflecting the sun on Saturday. Ideal weather, brisk but comfortable in the warming sun. I had hopes of visiting the Grand Canyon on Sunday, but I relented, upon hearing reports of snow at Flagstaff & the 7100' canyon rim. We'll have to return in the spring or fall to include the Canyon in our itinerary. Instead, Sunday we took a walk through photogenic Red Rock State Park. Mostly cloudy, there were occasional bursts of sun, as well as a light dusting of snow, at 4500' Sedona.

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/GoingToSedona#
http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/Sedona2010#
http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/RedRockStPark#

We hustled back to Gilbert Monday morning, to get Danielle to work at Noon. Cooper was happy to see us--for the 2 days we were away, he had access to a small kennel in the warm house via the dog door & otherwise had the back yard for his playpen, where he entertained himself by shredding a few stuffed toys.

Last day, Tuesday, I hooked up with Cousin Ray, to play a round of golf. He & Carolyn live in nearby Queen Creek.

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/GolfWRay2010#

Dustin made good time getting us to the airport Wednesday morning. 'Good thing, because as we went through Security we discovered I had grabbed Dustin's briefcase while unloading the car. He had just arrived at work & was able to return to the airport. I met him back out at the curb & had a second pat down--Phoenix doesn't yet have the total body scanners--by Security (my artificial hip & now my total knee replacement always set off the sensors), with still time for Lucy to wait in line at Starbuck's.

We got all 3 seats in the back row of the Southwest 737, so we didn't have to bump elbows on the 3-hour flight to Seattle. It was a good trip, with lots of catching up with old friends & family. Despite the wet, cold weather of Puget Sound, it'll be good to be back home to our own bed & our animals. And, when walking through the living room, we will no longer need to dodge the piano, having finally delivered it to Dustin, in his spacious first home.

Sunday, November 7, 2010

Kaua'i 2010






Kauai, October 29 – November 5, 2010

Nate, Kate, 3 y.o. Juliet & I boarded our Alaska flight at noon on Friday. 2 & ½ hours later we hopped on the shuttle at huge LAX, to the American concourse, where we ran in to Mary, coming from Portland. Our 6-hour flight to Lihue, Kaua'i, was smooth. We chased the sunset for hours. I don't remember our flight to the Big Island in March 2008 being so long. It must be as fast to fly from Seattle to the Caribbean! Juliet didn't sleep at all, excitedly on her way to much talked of Hawai'i.

When we landed Friday night, I shuttled over to get the rental minivan. We got turned around on directions to nearby Garden Island Inn, but our round about route only added a few extra minutes. Kate put Juliet to bed while Mary, Nate & I went to near-by Duke's for tasty Poo Poos (appetizers) and pina coladas served IN pineapples, sitting on the veranda with a pleasant breeze and a band playing reggae.

Mary & I awoke early (3 hours behind Pacific time zone here, so 6 a.m. Hawai'i time is 9 a.m. PDT) & opened up a nearby Seattle Best Coffee, taking back drinks & pastries to the inn. We walked across the road to Kalapaki Beach, played in the surf, as the sun began to get higher in the sky. (So far, while the sun is strong, temperatures have been comfortable. There's a cooling breeze most everywhere.)

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/Kauai1stDay#

We checked out of Garden Island Inn (our frequent flyer award travel tickets didn't match up with the availability at the condo here, which resulted in the one-night stay near the airport) & decided on the Olympic Cafe in Kapa'a for lunch, as Mary's friend Matt says the fish tacos there are the best on the island. They were good. On our way back toward Po'ipu, we took a short side road to view 'Opaeka'a Falls & stopped at Costco to get supplies.

We arrived at the resort, Point-at-Po'ipu, about 2:30. The call ahead, requesting early check-in, didn't help much. We did get in to our condo about 3:30 p.m. And, we got the requested ocean view, although the vista is framed by parts of the big resort, on both sides.

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/PointAtPoIpu#

Mary & I headed back to the airport to pick up Deanna, my niece. We had pizza for dinner & turned in fairly early, still adjusting to the time change.

Sunday morning we greeted the sunrise on the nearby bluff, with breakers crashing below us. 'Great colors.

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/KauaiSunrise1#

Mary, Deanna, Juliet & I went to nearby Po'ipu Beach to snorkel, dropping Nate & Kate at a sports bar to watch the Seahawks get trounced by the Raiders. Juliet is still leery of the snorkel that Great-grandma got her for her for her birthday. A friendly beach companion loaned us a small air mattress with a viewing window, so Juliet saw some fish. After a short snorkel, I followed Deanna further out, where she'd seen lots of fish. I got in to a shallow area with breakers & decided to turn back. 'Still not that fit, following rehab after my total left knee replacement in June. We have several other destinations in mind for snorkeling.



Sunday night, Halloween, we went to Jonathan & David's, where a small group of trick-or-treaters joined their 2 seven-year olds. Mary worked with Jonathan several years ago. Juliet was a cat, with the cutest little outfit Kate made for her. Juliet was ecstatic & managed to keep her balance, running pell mell down driveways, while we held our breath & exhorted her to slow down.

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/PoIpuBeachHlwn#

Another spectacular sunrise Monday, enhanced by telephoto capability of my intelligent zoom Panasonic Lumix. Mary caught sight of one turtle in the surf. We walked around the lovely grounds of the Hyatt next door.

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/KauaiSunrise2#

Monday breakfast was at Joe's on the Green, at a nearby golf course. Mid-day, the gals did the nearby Koloa weekly farmers' market, while Nate went to a timeshare sales promo, to get his $100 golf voucher. Juliet & I napped. After some time at the pool here at the resort, we did some late afternoon snorkeling at the beach next to the Beach House. Nate barbequed chicken, that went well with a great fruit salad from purchases at the farmers' market.

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/KauaiBrkfstFruit#

Tuesday daybreak was another beauty. Between all of us, we have a few hundred sunrise pics by now.

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/KauaiSunrise3#

After breakfast of granola, fruit & yogurt, Kate & I dropped Nate at the golf course on our way to the airport to pick up Sammie, Kate's childhood friend, now living on Maui. She hopped an inter-island flight to spend the rest of the week with us. On return to the condo, we headed back to poolside. Then a several minute drive to the Beach House, where sat on their lawn to take in a spectacular sunset. Pizza again for dinner, here at the condo.

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/KauaiCharacters#

Wednesday morning was somewhat overcast, so we didn't make our morning trek to the bluff to start the day. 'Just as well, because we wanted to get an early start to Waimea Canyon. Chances are better for views earlier in the day. While cloudy at the lookouts at the top of the canyon, we were able to catch glimpses down toward the Na Pali coast line & the beautiful, rugged valley arising precipitously from the Pacific.

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/NaPaliOverlook#

We stopped at several viewpoints of Waimea Canyon as we descended, often compared to the Grand Canyon. Following the suggestion of my friend, Dave Wagner, we enjoyed lunch at Waimea Plantation Cottages.

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/WaimeaCanyon#

We got back to the condo in time to return to return to the Beach House for more snorkeling. While we knew we didn't have much daylight left, we decided to find Kawailoa Bay, at the end of the dirt road east of the Hyatt, that Mary's friend Jonathan recommended. After traveling the progressively bumpy gravel road for about 3 miles, we met the guard assigned to close the gate at 6 pm & resigned ourselves to returning earlier another day to get to Kawailoa Bay.

Thursday was our North Shore day. We had some rain at daybreak here on relatively dry South Shore. Weather got progressively wetter at we drove up the East Coast. When we arrived at the end of the road, Ke'e Beach, we were greeted by a steady downpour. Waves were high & it was obvious that the north shore beaches sometimes good for snorkeling, weren't safe. Despite the rainy, cloudy conditions, we had some views of the rugged mountains shooting up from the North Shore, with white threads of waterfalls. Retracing our path along the North Shore, by the time we got to Kilauea Lighthouse the rain had subsided.

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/KauaiNShore#

Just north of Lihue, we took a 4 mile side trip to see Wailua Falls.

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/WailuaFalls#

We didn't get out of the clouds until the last couple of miles approaching the South Shore, about 4 pm—enough time to explore Kawailoa Bay, east of the Hyatt, at the end of the gravel road. It was worth it—a lovely stretch of sand and rocky shoreline, with overhanging trees. And, we had the added blessing of a rainbow.

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/KawailoaBay#

Exiting ahead of gate closure, we had just enough time to drive to a vantage point east of Po'ipu Beach to watch the sunset. At dusk, we visited small Moir Gardens, within Kiahuna Plantation Resort.

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/Sunset2MoirGarden#

Friday, last day for most of us (Mary & Deanna will be staying until Sunday), we took in our final South Shore sunrise. After breakfast, we headed to the pool for a last sunning. Juliet played with her 3-year old friend, Lander, one more time. Then it was 11 a.m. check out time & off to Kalaheo Cafe & Coffee Company for lunch. Nate & I were dropped off at nearby Kukuiolono Golf Course, famous for $9 green fees! A sugar magnate donated the course to the municipality, with the stipulation green fees must remain $9 for the 9-hole course. Club rental also $9. Cart rental? You guessed it—$9! The green fees are actually $9 per day, no charge for additional rounds after the first 9. But, cart rental is $9 for each 9. A hilltop course with some great views, the course has lots of character. I started well but wasted a few shots on holes 3 & 4. Nate finished strong, with a birdie and several pars on closing holes, playing with cheap rental clubs. We didn't have time to make more use of the bargain rates, as we needed to get Mary & Deanna to their new condo & get ourselves to the airport.

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/KukuiolonoGolf#

After leaving Nate & me at the golf course, Kate, Juliet & Sammie dropped Mary & Deanna at the National Tropical Botanical Gardens & went to Hanapepe, where, mid-span on the swaying footbridge over the river, as Kate was getting anxious, Juliet didn't reassure Mom, with her rendition of “London Bridges Falling Down”.

Mary & Deanna raved about the gardens, promise to share scads of pictures. As we picked them up exiting the gardens, we were again blessed with a rainbow. We've seen many the last few days, as intermittent rain has come and gone.

It turned to steady rain as we drove up to Kapa'a Shores, East Shore, where we left Mary & Deanna, at a condo Mary rented from her World-Mark friend. They will fly home on Sunday.

We didn't have much time to spare for Sammie to catch her inter-island flight and we checked in behind most of the full flight of passengers for our 9:20 pm red eye to Los Angeles. Juliet fought sleep for a while, but eventually got some decent rest. We had a couple of hours layover before catching our last flight up the coast to Seattle. Juliet slept the whole flight.

Summing up: a good time had by all, including 3 y.o. Juliet. She was exceptionally adaptable. We managed to fit in late naps for her most days. Her favorites: Halloween & making friends at the pool. While others were impressed with the array of fish, my snorkeling forays this trip were less rewarding. Before next trip, maybe I'll get that other knee replaced. Mary is a regular on my international & offshore trips. I'm glad to help her escape Oregon, where her job--keeping developmentally challenged out of institutions--challenges her. Niece Deanna is happy to join us when possible. Kate's been on a couple of trips before. Aside from family States-side reunions, this is Nate's first. The morning we departed, he got news he passed his last test, making him a licensed landscape architect—great timing to celebrate, with a first-ever visit to Hawaii!

Thursday, May 27, 2010

Teton Village, my Gemini 65th BD Party






.
.
.
























































May 25, am, ~ 8 a.m.

Pic link for the first 2 days: 

Horray, I'm 65 & I HAVE Medicare!!

'Sitting in the living room at Teton Club, Teton Village. 'Expecting Juliet to awake any minute, so I'll come back to this later, after a morning visit to the hot tub with my 2.7 year old granddaughter.

I flew to Idaho Falls on Saturday, with a stop in Boise. Hertz was expecting me. A rainy day, as I drove northwards on the Yellowstone Highway, I found myself in a full-blown snowstorm. May 22--I was expecting early summer conditions in the Rockies!

I didn't know better, so, instead of staying on the longer, lower route along the Snake River, I took the shortcut over two passes to Jackson Hole, via Victor. While snow was on the roadway, tires were keeping lanes of blacktop visible and it didn't feel slippery. It was slow over the first pass, with a super cautious driver setting the pace. Even so, it was only about a 2-hour drive from Idaho Falls Airport to Teton Village.

I arrived at Teton Club to find Helena in the lobby. From Palm Springs, she flew in to Jackson Hole on Friday and camped out in the snow at nearby Jenny Lake! While Teton Club had an open 3-bedroom suite, they would only drop their nightly rental rate from $450 to $360. Rather than spend $ on a smaller place, Helena decided to save her money for eating out, pitched her tent and has the experience to brag about (All the Peace Corps/Ecuador people coming this week are 62+, which means we all get the huge senior discount for entrance fee to the national parks). Slightly different weather than back home in Palm Desert, where Helena is a PA in a dermatology clinic.

As I was checking in and sorting out how to divvy up all FIVE 3-bedroom suites, retired international banker, David Wilson walked in. He flew from Portland, Maine. His wife needed to stay home for a grandchild's recital. Jim Mullins, recently retired from the Montana Highway Department and nursing (or not!) a seriously swollen finger, from helping a friend build a house, arrived in time for a late dinner, driving in the snow from Helena, Mt. Lynn (they met at Peace Corps training in 1970—Lynn was Jim's Spanish instructor) had important job happenings she couldn't extricate herself from to be here. Jim and David were both volunteers with the land surveying program in the Upper Amazon of Eastern Ecuador, trained at Dot.S.Dot Ranch by yours truly. Helena was a sola Gringa traveling thru Ecuador in 1969 when Milton (for the 2nd year a reunion no-show. This time, the finale of wife Stephanie's teaching career is the reason) informed her of the pending purchase of Fundo Estalin (so-named by Guillermo, the would-be Marxist we bought it from), renamed by us Hacienda Buena Karma, AKA, per South American Handbook, 1970 edition, the “hippie commune at Misahualli”, hereafter referred to simply as “the farm”. Today it is an ecotourism lodge -
These days it’s fancy Misahualli Amazon Lodge--
https://www.misahualliamazonlodge.com
Alas, we didn't manage to retain any ownership rights. Helena and Ira were the only 2 of the 10 of us farm buyers on the title. In the early 70s, when we had scattered our own ways, Helena sold the farm to Esperanza's family, Esperanza being the Ecuadorian bride of a PC volunteer.

After a cold, wintry Saturday, we awoke Sunday to beautiful, blue sky. The 4 of us (Helena, Jim, David and I) piled in to David's rented Subaru and headed north in to Grand Teton NP. We stopped to take pics of an owl and her young in a huge nest up a pine tree, then on to lovely Jenny Lake for more pics, arriving at Signal Mountain Lodge in time for a wonderful brunch, with an awesome string of Teton peaks to gaze at, across Jackson Lake.

We continued northwards in to Yellowstone NP, with frequent stops to take pics of rivers, waterfalls, elk, bison and geysers. We hiked part of the way up to Point Sublime, above Artist Point, on the South Rim of the Yellowstone River Canyon. Not the magnitude of the Grand Canyon, but very colorful and rugged. I made everyone bring swim suits, in hopes of again soaking in the boiling (Gardner) river, below Mammoth Hot Springs, at the northern entrance to Yellowstone. But, it was going to be an additional 3 hours of travel so I wisely, if sadly, abandoned that overly ambitious objective. We followed the North Canyon Road westward, turning south to Old Faithful. We had time to roam through the lodge before find a seat for the eruption at about 7 pm, preceded by a herd of bison coming right behind the seating area a couple of minutes before the eruption. It was an impressive eruption, but our blue sky had disappeared. The white, cloudy sky behind the plume made it less dramatic. I hope to get back on a blue sky day.

We reached Jackson Lake Lodge at dusk, for a great meal in their dining room overlooking the marshes by the lake, where a lone moose was grazing in the distance. David was designated driver and got us back after an hour of driving in the snow. A long but enjoyable day. If David said it once he said it half a dozen times: “I'll be back”. Alas, not this trip. He had to fly home Tuesday, to make it to an aunt's birthday later in the week.

Arriving back at Teton Lodge about 10:30 pm and exhausted, we didn't check in with Ira and Lisa until Monday morning. They drove from their home in Barstow, Southern Californian desert. They were farm buyers, lived in Quito back in 1969, where Ira worked for CARE, having formerly been one of the very first PC volunteers—Colombia 1961.

Again, pic link:
https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipM7KVRhzm5KFSTaz1ud_KnxFmbuLsWNAFwS7Du4

Thursday, May 20, 2010

Tetons & Yellowstone 2010 finale



































Text below...
























Continuing my report on the May 22 – 29 gathering of family & friends in Teton Village, my “Gemini” coming-of-Medicare-age birthday bash:

Also arriving late Sunday night, driving from their home in Colorado Springs, were Lucy's nephew, Arran (doctoral candidate in Immunology), his wife Shawnee (owner of Techwise, with 300 + employees, now training in more interesting arenas than computers, such as preparing soldiers for deployment) and their 3 boys, Pax, Caden and McCoy. I drove back to Idaho Falls Monday morning to pick up Lucy (retired medical consultant, quilter, etc), Nate (Lowry Rentals bookkeeper, while applying for new landscape architect jobs, in an economy that is slow to rebound), Kate (bar/restaurant owner) and Juliet (my one and only grandchild to date). I took the low road along the Snake River, since it had turned wintry again. While it was still snowing, I chanced the short route over the passes on returning, and saved about 45 minutes. We arrived in time for a late lunch with Arran, Shawnee and the boys. Dustin was going to join us, flying up from Phoenix, but pressing business (horror films) and a funeral took precedence.

Monday evening, Ira brought out the guitar and entertained the kids. They dubbed him “Santa” - See pics & you'll know why -



Tuesday we said goodbyes to David and Jim. Weather report was for improving weather on Wednesday, so we hung around Teton Village, hot tubbed, braved the steam room (Was that warning on the door for ME?--about consulting your physician prior to use, if you have health issues), made ourselves at home in Teton Club's Great Room. We had a scare when Juliet disappeared (She'll be 3 in September). Frantic looking for several minutes ended when she was found, wide-eyed, on the spa floor. She had gotten on the elevator and taken it down to the bottom floor.

We went to dinner at an Italian restaurant in the village. Tuesday night we had expected the arrival of John Hudelson (wine prof at Central Wa U in Ellensburg), his wife, Carole ('just finished a couple of years instructing law students how to write), and Ardis Barnum (retired from a career with the forest service, now volunteering to make Winthrop in the North Cascades of Washington more livable). Museums and wineries took more time than expected and they got in very late.

Wednesday morning we took in the parks, first Grand Teton, then Yellowstone. We had sun at times, but clouds set in later in the day. So, once again, I failed to see Old Faithful erupt with blue sky background. My camera battery was kind enough to go dead as we were about to head homeward.

Thursday morning Nate and I played Teton Pines, benefiting from an association with Teton Club. 'Good thing, as the King Cobra rental fee was $50. I did take to the performance clubs quickly and played above average, over shooting the par 5 7th with my 3rd shot, 559 yards long, from my white tees. Nate played blue tees, which partially accounts for my playing even with him early in to the back nine.

Opening day for Sex and the City 2, some of the gals made an afternoon of it in Jackson, getting in line for tickets to insure they got in.

Thursday night Ira, John and Lisa got out the guitars and made more sweet music. Juliet, due to depart the next morning, was serenaded and loved it.

Friday morning, it was already time to get the family back to Idaho Falls and their return to Seattle. I again got turned around leaving Twin Falls. I have finally figured out there are TWO northbound freeways—Interstate 15 and Highway 20. I'll know next time. While it is a 1.5 – 2 hour drive to Teton Village, the time sitting in Salt Lake or Denver airports and added cost of airfare leaves me satisfied--it's better to fly to Idaho Falls than to Jackson Hole--from Seattle.

Ira BBQ'd burgers and we ate in the great room on Friday evening, followed by more music. Teton Club members sat in front of the fireplace and enjoyed the sounds, as did club staff.

We have consensus—Teton Club is magnificent, as are the parks, as are our friendships. With many of us retired and others approaching that blessed state, we can afford to continue to make time to get away together...

3rd set of pics -
https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipNwdZU6SiCbS-jdNu2slodZE8NjtP75-1LcBAQN

BTW, having done brief bios on others--hard to believe it's going on 8 years since I said goodbye to my career as a psychiatric social worker. In Pierce County, Washington, Lowry Rentals has downsized somewhat. I still keep my grandpa's cottage on a bluff of the Oregon Coast occupied most of the time with vacationers. Unable to pass up steals on the secondary market, our timeshare holdings have burgeoned, making possible the wonderful Teton Club digs for this gathering. At the end of June, I will replenish our points reservoir and again welcome invitations to support worthy fundraisers (auctions or raffles). Let me know about your worthy causes.

John Lowry
253-841-4948
www.lowryrentals.com
john@lowryrentals.com

Monday, May 10, 2010

Mexico 2010--Zihuatanejo I






Mexico 2010: Zihuatanejo to Oaxaca - First dispatch

Saturday afternoon in Zihuatanejo. We have 3 more days, but while I have good internet access, I'm sending this. Link to the photo album: http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/ZihuatanejoI#

I'm stuck with Wordpad on this laptop, without Spellcheck, so I apologize for the typos I don't catch.


Mexico City Airport.

Familiar Sala B for domestic flights. I've hung out here in the past with Mary, waiting for a connecting flight. And, the gal who sweeps the floor every few mintures is still here too! I've still got 3+ hours before catching a Mexicana flight to Zihuatanejo, where Deanna promises to be waiting with a guy in a white VW bug, just oustside the airport (To avoid lining the pocket of an airport taxi dirver). She's been in Ixtapa for a couple of days, getting a headstart on vacationing. Mary and her friend Claudia are due in tomorrow afternoon.

The only causalty I'm aware of so far is my 2006 Lonely Planet Mexico guidebook. 'Good thing I didn't spring for a 2010 edition. Mary has a current Foder's Mexico we can consult. I think I left it on the floor under my seat on the plane here in DF (Distrito Federal). I was focused on filling out the immigration forms, which I didn't do a good job on--when I got to Customs I was sent to the side to fill in about 6 spaces I hadn't completed. Those Mexican customs forms have hard-to-find signature lines.

Decision: do I set my phone alarm and try to catch some sleep, drapped over my carry-on & computer bag, or not? I got some sleep on the leg from LA. 'Had a few tense minutes, standing in the looong security line at Bradley International (part of LAX)--very reminiscent of the lengthy wait Lucy and I had, to get thru security on our way to Australia several years ago, not long after 9/11. They saw that my boarding was underway and shuttled me to a shorter line. Those who allow plenty of time get punished--left in the regular line, which can take an hour or more!

Here in the airport, I changed $20 at 11.60 pesos to the $. I hope banks will give a better rate. Consulting on line before I left home, I saw the peso has been strengthening against the $ in recent months. First liter of water, 25 pesos! I 'spose a bottle of water in a US airport would be somewhat more than a couple of bucks.

Room 401, Villa Vera Puerto Mo, Zihuatanejo

'Got up this morning, eager to catch up on emails. Last night I agreed to a 200 peso enrollment fee to use the resort's web connection for the week (At 12 pesos/$, less than $17 and about $2.40/day--I'll try to censure some of my deal-making thinking here...!) Deanna went to bed too early and had trouble sleeping, so it seemed like a good opportunity to sip coffee and respond to online messages. After searching all compartments of my new laptop bag, I came to the frustrating conclusion that I left the power cord to the laptop at home. So much for Mary's gift of St. Anne, the saint of lost objects. And her checklist to not leave things at home (of course, I only crossed off the clothing items on the list--I didn't allow enough packing time to get down to "computer & charger").

I called Raul, our cabbie that Deannie found yesterday--to pick me up just outside the airport. He took me to the electronics store and loaned me 50 pesos--I figured 700 would be more than enough, but the price was 750 pesos. I'll be repaying him momentarily, when we go to the airport to pick up Mary and Claudia.

...Thursday morning. Coffee's on. Claudia's trying to get some sleep, after being awake during the night. I am back from the lobby, where strong internet signal didn't help me get to my email. Oh well, hopefully later.

...Friday morning. 'Been too much going on to find time to blog. We'll be doing breakfast soon, then the gals are heading to town to shop, without me. I see an opening to catch up here. . Tuesday arrival of Mary and Claudia went smoothly. They also got "green" lighted at customs, which meant no bag searches. Their room is just down the hall from Deanna and mine. 4th floor, no elevator, so exercise doing stairs is the order of the week. But, our view is even better here on the next to penthouse level, looking across Zihuatanejo Bay towards Las Gatas Beach. Claudia & Mary have a suite with big jacuzzi tub with a view & a balcony, so we'll be spending more time there, as our room's view is thru a picture window.

Wednesday we caught a small launch to Playa Las Gatas. Recently I have been in email correspondence with Scott. He lives south of Mexico City and we had hoped to visit him during this trip, but it turns out he is traveling too & won't be home to drop in on. Scott, an anthropologist, was studying the Cofan of the Ecuadorian upper Amazon basin when I was a Peace Corps volunteer in the late 60s. He was one of the 10 of us who bought Hacienda Buena Karma. When Scott learned we were coming to Zihua, he said we must drop in on Owen Lee, his buddy who lives at the far end of Las Gatas Beach. So, we did, catching Owen just after his morning shower. He graciously gave us drinks and led our snorkel around the point. At 82, he has been retired a few years from his nature study center next door to his beach house, which I will learn more about when I read his A Prisoner in Paradise--I got an autographed copy from Owen. His adventurous life includes diving for Jacques Cousteau.

The snorkel with Owen was brief and not memorable. We were coping with some waves. I hope for better snorkeling success at other places. While we immediately got on a boat on our return to the wharf, the skipper decided he wanted more passengers before embarking, so he idled around the dock, with engine fumes waffing up. Mary was struggling to breathe. After cordial requests to leave were ignored, Mary approached the skipper, demanding he return our boarding pass and let us off, whereupon he did depart--despacito--He crossed the bay at about half the speed of the other boats, perhaps in an effort to get back at us, but we enjoyed the view and lack of waves.

A dip in the pool here at Villa Vera Puerto Mio was most welcome. Ideal temperature, about 4' deep, a trickle of a waterfall from a viewing pool above, great view of the bay (Check out pics on Picasa, link above & to follow). We survived on drinks and appetizers at the restaurant next ot the pool, befriended by Dianna and Bill, guests from Minnesota, with a room next to ours.

Internet access continues to fail on my laptop, despite programming by staff here. They let me use their computer to check email today.

...Saturday morning. Coffee is on. Deanna awake, but didn't sleep as well as previous nights.

Catching up: Thusday Raul, in Cab 0520, took us to Petalan, about 30 km south, to the gold market in front of the church. Those travel book writers sometimes wax poetic with little basis in reality. I will say that the inventory in the numerous stalls along the street was considerable. They all had their scales and weighed pieces of jewelry before quoting prices--200 pesos for very small pieces, much more for larger ones. Deanna got a small sun that she liked. The guides describe the church as "beautiful majestic". Mary and I, after seeing so many truely majestic churches in Latin America, find it modern and plain. Mid-day mass was underway, which further dissuaded me from spending much time looking in the church.

On our way back, we detoured to Barra de Potosi, a village where a lagoon meets the ocean. We took a boat ride around part of the lagoon, with the skipper jumping out and pulling us across shallow sandbars in spots, which created a bit of drama--would we stout gringos need to get out and help, or walk to shore? He managed without either. There were some picturesue shots of pelicans, cranes, other birds and old boats with fading paint jobs.

Back in Zihua, we had Raul drop us at Playa de Ropa, Restaurant Rossy, where Deanna could use the 500 peso voucher she got for going to a timeshare breakfast during her first couple of days in Ixtapa. Unlike the unpleasant outcomes of most timeshare come-ons I've attended, she said the breakfast was good and the whole thing was over in the promised 90 minutes. The salesman was shut down by Deanna's reply: "My uncle has tons of timeshares, so why should I get my own?" After guacomote and natchos, drinks and reorders of both (the guacamole was esp. good), we had used up the voucher. The gals walked the whole beach, while I napped on a beach chair. No luck finding the massuse that a friend of Mary's told her was excellent and worked on Playa de Ropa. We caught a bus in to the center of town, got off by the mercado and looked in briefly--things were closing up, as it was early evening by then. We negociated a 30 peso cab ride back up the hill to the hotel, Villa Vera Puerto Mio, where we had been informed, in writing, we were excluded from the pool area for the evening, because of an RCI event honoring the hotel staff. We hung out on Mary & Claudia's deck, checking out the party with Mary's binoculars, concluding that it was a totally boring affair. Our interest was peaked by knowing that Deanna's favorite bartender, Ceasar, had been selected for recognition.

Yesterday (Friday) the gals walked down the hill to town to shop. After multiple attempts to get on line with my laptop, I used the hotel's computer to access my email and take care of those warranting my time while vacationing. I hiked down the hill the other way to check out Contramar Beach, described by some writers as good for snorkeling. Maybe. Overlooking the cove from above, I couldn't see any coral nor much that would be of snorkeling interest. We again walked down to town for dinner, selecting Elvira's. Our waiter spoke excellent English because he's lived much of his life in the states, including the Hazeldell neighborhood of Vancouver, where Deanna lives and his uncle owns el Tapatito Restaurant and Kaizer, the small town where Mary lives! Another small world experience.

End of Dispatch I. Again, link to photo album: http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/ZihuatanejoI#

Sunday, May 9, 2010

Zihua finale, Taxco & Puebla






Wednesday afternoon, April 28th, in Taxco. I've got a little time to begin to fill in the last few days, waiting for the heat of the day to subside. Even though almost 6000 feet elevation, the afternoon sun here is very strong. We plan to wander out as it cools down, hoping for some great sunset pictures, capturing the charm of this hilly, historic Pueblos Magicos town.

End of my first dispatch was Friday evening in Zihuatanejo. To view pics from our last few days in Zihua, paste the following link in to your browser. After viewing the slideshow, hit the Back arrow to return here to the blog:

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/ZihuaII2010#

Saturday, Mary and Claudia went looking for Sylvia, a masseuse of some fame, on La Ropa Beach. Sylvia wasn't there, but they found others to give them greatly appreciated massages. After having given Raul quite a bit of taxi business, with discussion of more, I didn't feel I needed to agree on the price for their outing, including a brief stop at the supermarket. Wrong. He charged them double what I expected--killed the goose that lays golden eggs, he did. Deanna got in pool time, working on perfecting the tan. I spent time Saturday getting my first blog report off and updating my online Picasa picture album. The 4 of us returned to Letty's for dinner, a small restaruant at the bottom of the path leading to town, where Letty remembered us and thanked us for returning. Good food, simple, open-air place overlooking the bay.

Sunday we snorkeled on Ixtapa Island. The best snorkeling for me in a couple of years--lots of colorful fish, a coral reef with a multitude of colors. Claudia got a deep muscle massage while Deanna and Mary went out for a second look. We got a delightful meal served on the beach, fresh snapper hot off the grill. Mary failed to excuse herself, bolting for the bay's salt water when a bee stung her finger--swelling and pain still haven't gone away.

Monday we returned to Las Gatas Beach, this time snorkeling out beyond the reef (Owen took us along the north shore). Much better--shallow coral, easy going, until we found ourselves in some unexpected waves, that we crested okay, masks and fins doing their job. Back on the beach, we replicated our beach lunch of Saturday, with another fresh fish off the grill.

Returning from all outings, especially from the beach, the pool at Puerto Mio was most welcoming, the sun going over the horizon. The still hot curved tile edges of the pool make for soothing neck rests. Drinks brought to poolside added to our relaxation.

We met Matt, retired Californian, at the bar Monday evening. He took us to view his penthouse condo nearby and promised to rent it to us at a big discount. We rode with him to il Mare, one of his favorite restaurants, for a fitting last meal in Zihua. Matt was impressed with all we did during our week. He willingly agreed to take Deanna to the airport on Tuesday afternoon.

Claudia, Mary and I bid farewell to Deanna early Tuesday morning, catching the 8:00 first-class bus to Acapulco. I catnapped some, caught glimpses of the Pacific from time to time. On arrival in Acapulco, we learned buses for Taxco left from another bus station. We managed to fit all our luggage and the 3 of us in to one cab. At the new bus station, the first bus to Taxco would be a 3-hour wait, but there was a 1st class bus leaving for Iguala in half an hour, with promise of frequent buses from there on to Taxco, so we opted to keep moving. Even though we did a lot of climbing, it was sweltering on arrival in Iguala. To my dismay, I saw a 1st class bus pulling out of the bus depot with "Zihuatanejo" written on the front window. On subequently consulting Claudia's AAA map of Mexico, it looks like there is a much shorter route, through the mountains from Zihua to Iguala, rather that down the coast to Acapulco, then triangulating back northwards, esp. with the hassle of getting from one bus station to another in Acapulco. Oh well, next time I'll know. BTW, are you aware of the benefits of enhanced AAA membership? Claudia says AAA would have sent her a whole book on Mexico FREE--perks of her membership. I must check that out.

Sure enough, when we got to Iguala, a bus was leaving in "5 minutos" for Taxco, which turned out to be more like 20 minutes. They put our luggage inside the 2nd class bus, in the back. No underneath compartment, like the 1st class buses. I grabbed a seat with more leg room toward the middle, leaving Mary and Claudia in the back to keep an eye on the luggage--bad place to ride--the back of a 2nd class bus. Mary's neck was in bad shape by the time we reached Taxco. Only VW bug cabs here, 'cause streets are so narrow regular cars can't negotiate some of them. We had to hail 2 bugs upon arrival in Taxco and went to the recommended Los Arcos Hotel, where we decided to stay put. Befitting its name, there are many arches. And a roof top with great views of the nearby church on the zocalo as well as a panorama of the hillside city--reminds me of Siena, Italy. Both mornings we were up and on the roof to greet the sun, with cameras sometimes enhancing the colors in the sky. My 10x telephoto is surprisingly stable when zooming way out.

For Taxco pics, go to:

http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/Taxco#

...4:30 a.m., Friday, April 30, Hotel Royalty, ON the zocalo, Puebla. I'm in the spacious sitting area outside our junior suite, with view of the church across the zocalo (city-center park) and plenty of fresh air from the double doors opening on to our small balcony. So glad we sprung for this room rather than the stuffy interior double and single rooms for almost as many pesos. While there is strong internet signal, I can't get online. The staff at Puerto Mio told me they re-programmed my IP address so I could get online there. I suspect they failed to tell me that they needed to unprogram it on my departure. I've had an email from Sylvia, a Raintree employee in Oaxaca, promising to be there for us on our arrival. I'm hoping she can call Puerto Mio and ask about getting the laptop IP address reversed. If not, I should be able to find a techy in Oaxaca.

We were eager silver shoppers in Taxco, me included. Shops everywhere--surrounding the zocalo, up and down stairs and alleyways. Most of the storefronts stuck by the "precios fijos"--the price tags on the jewelry items--but we were able to haggle price with some, esp. if buying several pieces. Some shops gave us 12 pesos exchange on our US bills, an improvement over the 11 pesos to the dollar that casas de cambio give. We have yet to find a bank that exchanges dollars.

Late Wednesday afternoon, we hired Jesus. We were surprised to find all 3 of us did fit in the back seat of his VW bug taxi. Front passanger seat missing, the case with all Taxco cabs. He took us up to the Christ statue, high on the mountain above the city, stopping at a church on the way. At one point it looked like we were too heavy for the steep, cobblestone street. I'm surprised I didn't smell his clutch burning. We bottomed on a few topes (speed bumps--they are ALL over Mexido). Mary asked him to slow down a few times, as it was a harrowing journey, up the winding streets, then down again at nightfall.

Mary's sleep was fitful Wednesday night, in part because she didn't buy some jewelry she had looked at, esp. the dragonfly pin in a fancy shop. I caught a cab down to the bus station, learned that buses leave for Cuernavaca every hour. We agreed to wait fro shops to open. The one with the dragonfly didn't open until 11, so we did more shopping and enjoying vistas of Taxco, 'til Mary got her dragonfly. While our first taxis took us to the wrong bus station (next bus leaving for Cuernavaca in about 3 hours), unlike the big cities, it was only a few minutes back to the right bus station and we make the noon bus.

I wasn't vigelent on arrival at the Cuernavaca bus station. Our bags were already loaded in to the cab, ourselves as well, when the cabbie informed me it was a long way to the other bus depot and the fare was $20 US. I said "No way", We may be travelers, but we're not paying airport prices here. He said 150 pesos was as low as he could go, so I agreed. It was a fairly long trip through the City of Eternal Spring (there were some pretty parks, flowering trees). Layover of about 30 minutes was just right. The 3-hour bus ride to Puebla was uneventful.

We caught a cab in to the center of the historic district in Puebla, to the Royalty Hotel, as mentioned above. Last night we walked around the zocalo and a few surrounding streets. Lots of action for a Thursday night. Great temperture, nice breeze. Mid-day sun is at it's hotest this time of year in this part of Mexico. Have you ever wondered why our summers (and winters) are delayed? Longest days of the year are late June, but it's a month or more before we get our hotest days. Here, when the sun is approaching being the most direct, the heat comes with the sun.

We visited the cathedral after breakfast this morning. Impressive. We observed the no flash request, had to be reminded that all pics were prohibited when we got close to a mass in process. We then went looking for antique row, discovered that shops open late morning, but got to look around one crammed full of things. We found the artisan market, bought a few pieces of Puebla Talavera. We also found ceramic trees of life, made in Izucar de Matamoros. I had found a couple of articles about this in researching our trip. Izucar is on the direct road from Cuernavaca to Oaxaca, but aside from the artisan shops, the town is reportedly bleak. And, if we stopped there, would we be able to catch transportation on to Oaxaca? Probably, but on slow, second class buses on secondary "highways". After further consultation, coming the extra distance to Puebla, then on to Oaxaca on 1st class buses seemed the prudent course.

We managed to visit one more church, elaborate with gold, and arrive at the bus station an our before the 12:50 bus for Oaxaca. But, it was already sold out. So, we are sitting on a shaded patio, drinking frappachinos, calling home, blog-writing, reading, etc. I was able to reach Casa San Felipe and tell them we will be getting in more like 8 pm tonight.

Puebla pics: http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/Puebla2010#

Saturday, May 8, 2010

Oaxaca, the early days







We arrived in Oaxaca, by bus from Puebla about dusk on Friday, April 30th. 'Caught a taxi to Casa San Felipe, where we were expected. The villa where we are staying is about 12 blocks from Casa San Felipe. The taxi "in 5 minutes" was about half an hour late. Several streets in the historic center of Oaxaca are torn up--being turned to cobblestone. It will be nice when completed, but in the meantime, it makes for traffic jams. And there's all the loud horns--that do absolutely no good. Next time it's our cabbie laying on the horn, I should tell him it'll cost him his tip if he does it again.

While lacking the grace of historic Casa San Felipe, the villa here is comfortable and spacious. The main floor has living room, dining room, complete kitchen and bath. Upstairs, besides the 2 bedrooms, there is another room with futon and a 3rd television, plus another bath. The 2 bedrooms have AC. Modern and bright. Friday night, after eating at a fine Italian restaurant across the street & unpacking as little as possible, we took showers and hit the sack.

Saturday morning, Mary and I set out in search of the organic market, that's open only on Fridays and Saturdays. Our villa, located on the corner of Margarita Maza & Diaz Quintas, is 4 blocks north of the botanical garden/Santo Domingo. Not far from the previous location of the organic market. But, when we found the old location, no market. We began asking passers by--did they know if the market has moved? Several said yes, and directed us northwards. I was beginning to lose hope when we found it, now located by Iglesia Xochimilco, a block north of the thoroughfare, Ninos Heroes de Chapultepec. Not quite as big as Mary remembered it from years past, but still a delightful gathering of people who support healthy eating. While not as close to our villa as the forner site, it's not bad--about 7 blocks. We went back and got Claudia and the 3 of us returned, for more food (& jewelry) purchases & delightful lunch and fruit drinks.

On the way there, I had a close call. Hugging the wall, to catch as much shade from the brutal sun as possible, my shoulder scraped a cement bay window abutment. It drew a little blood, but was only a small scrape. A few inches to the right I would have drove my shoulder in to the unrelenting cement structure. On the beach, we had several minor injuries. I mentioned Mary's bee or wasp sting. Mary and Claudia got bruised a bit getting in or out of launches. Deanna tumbled down the stairs and pinched her finger adjusting the back of a lounge chair. Claudia tripped in a hole in the sidewalk and went down face forward, bashing her cheek on the cement. After others had enjoyed relaxing in a hammock, I got in. A few minutes later the knot holding one end unraveled and I hit the sand, butt first. It sounded worse than it felt. On arriving home last night, we found that Claudia's itching eye was very bloodshot, apparently from a bug irritation. For all our mishaps, we feel fortunate that none have been serious.

Speaking of trying to hide from the sun, I have been telling people for years that Oaxaca, about a mile high, has a fresh, cool climate, unlike the hot coast. My previous 3 visits have all been in November. Late spring, for reasons I don't yet understand, is the hottest time of the year in southern Mexico. It was 95 degrees here this afternoon!! See my report below, for our trip today to the high Sierra Norte, expecting to escape the heat. Fortunately, it does cool down to about 60 at night, so the morning is cool, until that burning sun rises in the cloudless sky.

Sunday was a shopping day for the gals. I struggled with getting a blog update completed and trying to sort out my group emailing list. It seems that my laptop is now refusing to send bcc's & cc's. I'm also thinking that some other emails aren't reaching their destinations, as I haven't gotten expected replies. But, some email correspondence is getting through. I'll have to inform people on my travel group list when I get home, unless I can straighten out sending in our few remaining days.

Monday morning, Claudia decided to rest up. Mary and I grabbed 2 buses to the collectivo taxi stand to Iztlan de Juarez, up in the Sierra Norte mountains. I figured that would be a way to beat the heat and visit a pueblo magico, nearby Calpulalpam. The collectivo taxis cram 2 people in front, besides the driver, and 3 or 4 in the back seat. We had the "luxury" of only 1 person besides Mary and me in the back seat, but it was tight. My knees were more than ready to change positions, after the hour + ride. To our dismay, it was as hot in Ixtlan as down in Oaxaca. The weather report on line confirmed that both places reached 95 degrees on Monday. It is a dry heat, but still, the sun is amazingly intense. After inquiring at the ecotourism office about what they had to offer and finding them rather disorganized and vague, we caught another collectivo taxi to Calpulalpam, mercifully only about a 10-minute ride. There we found the church closed. We could here a band playing--off key. We agreed to not walk up the hill to take in the concert. Our trip to Sierra Norte was not a highlight of the trip.

We got back to our air conditioned villa in time for an afternoon siesta. Last November I punted on a birthday gift for Mary--I sent her a card, good for a meal at Hosteria de Alcalde, here in Oaxaca. We went there for Monday night dinner. Pretty setting, courtyard of a colonial mansion. I concur with Mary--it was the best meal of our trip. Pleasant young waiter. He brought us small pitchers of 4 different moles to sample, to help us decide on our main dishes. We walked down to the lively zocalo after dinner, took night pictures there & of Santo Domingo church on our walk back to the villa. See http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/Oaxaca20101stDays#

Tuesday morning we caught a cab up to Monte Alban, the Zapotec mountaintop city, one of Mexico's most impressive pre-Colombian sites. The day was cooler than Sunday, with some cloud cover, so the heat was quite bearable. The crickets were almost deafening We climbed the highest pyramid. Unfortunately, my camera battery went dead. I'm glad it was in the last part of our self-guided tour. See http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/MonteAlban#

Back in the hot city, the bus dropped us a few blocks from Tatu's, an inexpensive, pleasant luncheonette near the central market, a place recommended by my former co-worker, Julie. We had a great 4-course lunch with agua fresca (fruit punch) for less than $4 each. We made our first market visit brief, grabbing a taxi back to the villa for afternoon siesta.

So relieved to have the AC in the afternoons, we began thinking about how we'll manage in the heat of the day this coming weekend, when we have plans to stay 2 nights in the rug town, Teotitlan, which, as we recall from previous visits, has few trees. Mary and I went so far as to check out a few hotels near by. I again ran in to a protruding cement bay window, this time catching my ribs & leaving a nasty rash. Now, walking down the street, Mary and Claudia alert me about potential collisions. I was able to call Lori, a Floridian who lives most of the year at Las Granadas B&B in Teotitlan. She was reassuring. While no AC, they have fans and breezes. So, we're going to stick with our plans.

We ate in Tuesday night. Mary made delicious tostados, mostly from organic market buys.

Mary was fighting turista and Claudia decided to pass on going to Etla Wednesday morning After visiting over breakfast, I decided to skip the weekly Etla market myself. Late morning we walked back to the central market. Purchases included baskets, bags, bark drawings, chocolate & mole. 'Had delicious chocolate "snakes" (typos on menus are common, even in upscale places in Mexico) at the House of Chocolate. See mid-week Oaxaca pics at http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/OaxacaMidWeek#

Thursday morning we caught a taxi to the weekly market at Zaachila, a half hour ride southwest of the city. 'Most aggressive cab driver we've had so far. 'Not what Mary and her unsettled tummy needed. But, once in the market, we were tranquilo--lots of photo opportunities and some good shopping--purses, blouses, etc. See http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/ZaachilaMarket#

On return to the villa, I worked on Picasa albums and rental business via email and phone. Mary and Claudia ventured back out in the mid-day heat, walking to the women's coop. This evening we are packing. In the morning we check out of the villa, leave big bags at Casa San Felipe and head to Teotitlan del Valle for a couple of nights. We will have a final night at Casa San Felipe on Sunday, flying home Monday.

... Friday afternoon. Almost 6 pm but the sun hasn't set yet. I've been resting/napping the last 3 hours, with a fan blowing on me. Quite comfortable, here in the downstairs regular room (100 peSos/night--about $9). Mary and Claudia are sharing the 150 peso deluxe room upstairs, with its own bathroom. I have to walk across the courtyard to the bathroom.

And I will be needing the bathroom. During the night I suddenly had a major case of turista. The culprit was likely the meat in my vegetable soup at the Zaachila market yesterday. When I don't even want a bite of Mary's special eggs at breakfast, you know I'm not myself. I've started my Cipro (strong antibiotic) and decided it may help to take those pain pills, that are effective in constipating me than deadening pain. I know, TMI.

Our cab ride out to Teotitlan was pleasant. Gloria was our cabbie--one of 5 women taxi drivers in all of Oaxaca. We chatted about lots of things, including the US's apparent pleasure in waring around the world and why hasn't Obama been a peace president? I had printed a map before leaving home--I thought to the Granada B&B. But, it was to a rug place instead. Fortunately, Gloria stayed to see if we were at the right address and take us to the correct one.

Last, wrapping up dispatch to be added after we are home, sweet home.

Wednesday, May 5, 2010

Mexico 2010 finale--Oaxaca, Teotitlan, Tlacolula






Teotitlan del Valle, Saturday morning, May 8, 2010

Last morning at Las Granadas B&B, 2 de abril #9, tel. 951 524 42 32.  While rooms were hot in the afternoon and evening, fans helped.  The bed was firm but comfortable.  Breakfast will be coming soon, then a local cabbie, weaver Juana's son, Manuel, will pick us up, take us to the Sunday market in Tlacolula, come back for us at an agreed time, bring us back to Las Granadas to load up our equipaje, which has grown considerably with our rug, purse and woven cotton buys yesterday. We sat on the cool rooftop last night, drinking Havana Club with Lori from Florida and Rick from Chicago.  Both now spend a good part of the year here in Teotitlan.

Teotitlan pics: http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/Teotitlan2010#

Tlacolula Sunday market was as colorful as I remembered it.  Most of the brightly dressed indigenous women didn't like their pictures taken.  The telephoto helped.  The digital era is such an advance over 35 mm--the blurry and uncentered shots can be deleted, saving the worthy pics.  It was a great game plan--for Manuel to take us to the market, back to get our stuff and deliver us to Villa Vera in Oaxaca.  One last trip to the market, primarily for Mary to buy an extra bag.  I also got another kilo of coffee (85 pesos).  We went to Casa Oaxaca for dinner.  'Known for cooking classes.  We sat on the upper patio, next to Santo Domingo Church.  Beautiful sunset.  Beautiful food.  A great choice for our last meal of the trip. 

Tlacolula Sunday market pics: http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/Tlacolula2010#

Last day in Oaxaca pics: http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/Mexico2010FinaleOaxaca#

At 5 a.m., no suburban taxi, so we took 2 cabs to the airport in Oaxaca.  On arrival, I could not find my tourist visa.  While Mary and Claudia got boarding passes to LA, due to my missing visa, I was only giving a boarding pass to Mexico City.  Fortunately we had a 3 hour layover in Mexico City, because my remedy wasn't simple or quick.  After a couple of misdirections, I was sent to Customs, where I saw a big sign that said replacement of a missing tourist card, per Mexican law, was $42.  Fortunately I bypassed the long line of arriving international travelers and found my way to the immigration office, where the line wasn't long but didn't move fast.  At the front of the line, I was told I had to go out of the airport, to the police station, to report my lost tourist card.  I was beginning to panic, with the thought of spending half a day, Mary & Claudia facing boarding time and me no where in sight.  The police station didn't take long, but no reading glasses compounded the assignment of filling out the report with a font about size 8.  Back at Immigration, I got my replacement tourist card.  And, no $42 charge!  A blessing. Then to Mexicana, to get the boarding pass for LA, and back to waiting Maria and Claudia, with half an hour to spare, time to cool off before the long walk to Gate 33.