Sanny Union, March 2008

In the works since last summer, the long-anticipated get together of Eunice Ann Ball and her offspring came to pass, Colorado Springs, March 27 – 31. With a diagnosis over a year ago of Stage 4 lung cancer, a gathering of the clan was conceived, to rejoice with her while she is still with us. This is the account of her son-in-law, Lucy’s partner, John Lowry.

Selected photos: http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/SannyUnion308

And Lucy’s perspective: http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/SannyUnionLucyS

Lucy, Nate, Kate, Rick, 6-month old Juliet and I caught a late flight out of Seattle on Thursday evening. We rendezvoused with Dustin at the Denver airport and climbed in to a couple of rental cars, arriving at Arran & Shawnee’s in the wee hours of Friday morning. We were up and on the move by mid-morning. Perhaps skiing and boarding should not have been taken off the agenda, as our tee time at the Air Force Academy for late morning had to be cancelled due to a frozen course. Our consolation was a driving range in 33-degree temperature, without wind chill consideration, ending in a putting contest on a fast putting green, won by Arran.

Meanwhile, Friday the women folk and children took the cog rail train http://www.cograilway.com/ to the top of 14,110 ft. Pike’s Peak. While the train climbed out of the cloud cover in to bright sunshine, it was windy and bighting cold at the summit. Several reported intoxication from the altitude. Sanny was given a shirt proclaiming her summit of Pike’s Peak without oxygen.

Besides the Lowrys, Arran and Shawnee’s 6500 sf home easily accommodated Sanny. It’s tucked away in a hillside wild enough to be habitat for lots of deer, a family of fox at times and an occasional bear. Mary stayed with John and Amanda. They have been house sitting, waiting to close on their home north of Colorado Springs.

After a pizza feed, Friday night we hit the in-house pool at Arran and Shawnee’s. Cannonballs and keep away. Great fun. Movie time at the in-house theater later in the evening. Interspersed with the camaraderie and the wonderful food, the trampoline was a playful adjunct.

After Rick cooked a killer breakfast, Saturday some went shopping in artsy Manitou Springs while others took a scenic drive up in to the Rockies, to gamble at Cripple Creek. With veterans Shawnee and Arran, I braved the hold ‘em table, winning 3 hands before ending up out of chips. Big winner? Sanny--$190 at a penny slot!! We resumed gambling that evening with a hold ‘em tournament. While out of her element (slots), Sanny played well, winning some big hands before going out 3rd, just out of the money. Finalists were John H and John L, with some close all-ins, stacks of chips moving back and forth. Finally, my pocket Jacks went all-in against John Huckstep’s Ace and 4. The flop included an Ace, favoring the younger John. But, the River was a Jack, giving me the win!

Sunday: picture day at Garden of the Gods, an area of spectacular rocks. Shawnee’s friend, a photographer, met us there and took lots of pics, while we amateurs snapped away as well.

John and Amanda’s purchase closed on Friday. After the photo shoot, Sunday afternoon we got a preview of their beautiful new home, in a great neighborhood of long-needled pines, a walking trail alongside.

Arran, Nate, John and John played some volleyball early Sunday evening, getting home in time for Rick’s chicken parmesan and the final hold ‘em tournament. Sanny again played well, going out 4th. I was chip leader for a while, before Rick took me out, only to be defeated by Arran.

While cool in the mornings, the weather became increasingly nice. We were able to get in the round of golf at the Air Force Academy on Monday. We considered Arran, Dustin and John playing best ball against Nate, but ended up playing our own ball, for better and worse. We all had our moments of greatness. Nate was disappointed to drive over the dogleg on one 4-par, ending up on the fringe, only to settle for par after 3-putting.

It was a special weekend. The children—Pax, Caden, McCoy, Jenna, Mason and Juliet—got along wonderfully. We are a generous, thoughtful, intelligent, observant, energetic, ambitious, fun-loving bunch. Qualities that rubbed off from the gal that brought us together. Thanks, Sanny.

Hawaii second

I'm home. It's Monday night. I am sleep deprived but not feeling it yet. So let's wrap up the trip:

If you want to see the pics first (repeat of album from 1st Hawaii blog entry), or just plain skip my narrative below, go to
https://get.google.com/albumarchive/102259876019428056805/album/AF1QipME3htQxfNtj_JAJDk-n4-B9Yy1NzfdMjM-DMGH

Saturday morning notes: I knew the week would go quickly. Yesterday morning we returned to the beach next to the Place of Refuge. A friendly local, Dede, instructed us on the best place to get in and out of the water (My knee wound is healing nicely). We were early enough to get an excellent parking spot and a great place in the sand, in the shade of a palm, for Mom and Juliet. No swimming turtles spotted this time, but we got some great pics of one, feeding in the edge of the surf, on the lava shoreline. You can't tell its size from the picture. I'd guess its back is about 15” wide.

On the way back to town we stopped at a coffee roaster. The young man was very informative, trying to defer the price of his products, while priming us with chocolate-coated beans. The non-organic lb. was a mere $36, while the primo organic was $48/pound! What passes for Kona coffee really only has a small percentage of lower quality Kona beans in it. Did you know that darker roasts have less caffeine? The longer roasting takes some of the caffeine out. Mary bought a half-pound. I'm holding out to see if Jenny and her husband have beans for sale.

Last night we attended a luau. On the shoreline, walking distance from the condo. Very well done. 'Began before sunset. The buffet was excellent, as were the musicians, the MC (great singing voice too) and the dancers. Two of the male dances were real hunks, including the fire thrower. Far from having stranger shyness, almost 6-month Juliet is a shameless flirt. She took to several of our table companions. See pic of her and the dancer (too bad it isn't sharper). Can you read the dancers’ minds: “HOW long is this creepy old man going to leave his hands on our backs?—Get this picture-taking over!

Saturday was Mom's 92nd birthday. We didn't go far—to the farmer's market, really an artisan market, to pick up gifts. We went to Quinn's for lunch, a place recommended by Monet and Mark, volleyball buddies of mine. Great lead—the Ono fish was fantastic. While not fancy, the setting was more real than Rain Forest Cafes, with an open-air hillside next to our table and a little bird jumping by without being a pest.

Sunday the check out time is 10 a.m. Our flight was a red eye about 10:30 p.m. After two calls to give the okay, condo security let us leave our bags. We loaded up Jenny's loaners and headed north about half an hour to check out Haulalia, the 4-Seasons resort that Tracy says is beautiful. She could have got me a reduced rate (How much less than the usual $300 she didn't say) at the Nicklaus course there. If I had my game more together...Nah, I can't imagine my game good enough for resort green fees. Indeed, the resort is a beaut. We ate our packed lunch on the edge of their pool stocked with lots of fish, including several manta rays.

Jenny and Rich's coffee farm is up the slope a couple of miles from the Place of Refuge. They have quite a story. Several years ago the owner's of the farm were caught for falsely marketing Latin American beans as "Kona" and ended up in prison. The next owners mis-managed in a big way, leaving the place a dump. They have been working hard to turn it around and have become a major processor of green coffee on the island. We were treated to a tour and then a roasting of some super fancy beans, bringing home a big bag for ourselves and a bag to deliver to Katie.

One more sunset at the beach, by the Place of Refuge, dinner at a Mexican place in Kona, back to the condo to cram in all our luggage. If the plane had left on time, it would have been a very close call. Since it was an hour late, we were okay.

It was a plucky vacation, this 4-generation group, staying in a one-bedroom place, fitting in to a rental car that I intended to be mid-sized (an upgrade from compact), but in fact wasn't very spacious. We pulled it off. It was a splendid week. Even with her first 2 teeth coming through during the week and lots of time in the car seat, Juliet was a trooper. She is so alert, responsive to new acquaintances that show an interest in her. I look forward to taking her along on travels in coming years. Mom, of course, was her enthusiastic, appreciative, adaptable self. Mary, my traveling buddy, was her thoughtful, fun-loving self, so happy to take a break from her grueling job keeping Oregon's most challenging citizens out of institutions. And Kate, who lovingly helps me laugh at myself.

Once again, the pics:
https://get.google.com/albumarchive/102259876019428056805/album/AF1QipME3htQxfNtj_JAJDk-n4-B9Yy1NzfdMjM-DMGH

Until next time,

John

Hawaii first

It's Tuesday morning. I'm at the round table on the patio, just over the fence from the pool, which is just over the fence from the lava beach and surf here at Kona Reef.. A little bird, bright yellow, with orange head, is jumping around next to me. Taking off my light-colored tank top (Now don't worry where this is going...) helps reduce the glare on my laptop screen (Not that I've gotten THAT dark a tan already). We did kick back by the pool for a while yesterday, taking it easy after our 3 hour flights down the coast to LA, 6-hour layover and 5-hour flight in to Kona, on the west side of the Big Island.
Kate, Juliet and I started in Seattle; Mom and Mary left from Portland. We ran into each other right away, in the Alaska terminal at LAX, where it took 2 bus rides, including driving out on to runways, to get to the American terminal, where time passed fairly quickly, including entertaining 5 & a half-month Juliet and frequently interacting with her admiring public.
The Kona airport is a casual open-air Hawaiian village-looking place. No doubt they still manage security requirements. We shuttled over to the Alamo car rental, where we picked out a cruiser-type Chevy. The luggage, including the stroller, was a tight fit, some of it on laps, but we got it all in. The drive from the airport is only about 15 minutes. But there are few addresses on buildings on Alli Drive. We stopped to ask a uniform standing out front of the Hard Rock Cafe. He didn't know the address where he works. But he found someone who did know that we were about a block from our destination. Busy place, Kona Reef. Not a parking place to be found. The after-hours security guy (We arrived about mid-night Hawaiian time--2 hours earlier than Pacific Standard) instructed me where to double-park. We got settled quickly in to our 1-bedroom with a Murphy bed plus a couple of couches in the front room, Mom and Mary in the bedroom, Kate and Juliet on the Murphy bed, one couch pushed next to the Murphy bed, to be ready for when Juliet becomes more mobile than rolling only from back to front or front to back, which may be this week, John getting the last couch and finding it plenty comfortable.

For pics, go to
https://get.google.com/albumarchive/102259876019428056805/album/AF1QipME3htQxfNtj_JAJDk-n4-B9Yy1NzfdMjM-DMGH

After viewing the photo album, you should be able to get back to this narrative by hitting the back arrow on your browser...

It's now Wednesday morning. To recap Monday, besides pool time we made store runs to fill up the fridge, hearing that restaurants are expensive here. Indeed, local coffee at breakfast was $5/cup! But it was a wonderful view. Outside Costco, I sat will Juliet,decked out in a white bonnet. Of course we had a steady stream of admirers and she knew it!
Jenny came by and dropped off some toys and beach things. She and her family have migrated here, have a coffee farm south of Kona. Jenny is a good friend of Katie, my dental hygienist.
Chicken and pasta salad was delicious, here on our patio. Temperature is ideal, a freshening breeze most of of the time,
Yesterday (Tuesday), we went to Kahlalu'u Beach, about 4 miles south. Mom and Juliet got a place on the beach, mostly in the shade but also with umbrellas. Kate, Mary and I snorkeled. Lots of bright fish, some with different colors than I've seen in Mexican and Cuban waters. Some pretty coral. I happened on to a turtle. It didn't seem concerned, as I swan along side for a couple of minutes. After we got jut of the water we walked along the shore and took pictures of several turtles in the edge of the surf. Misfortune: Mary's underwater digital camera opened while she was snorkeling, so she fears it's ruined, after taking many wonderful pics, under water and above.
Wednesday is cruise ship day here in Kona. So, we figure it's the day to get out of town. We plan to drive to the Hilo side of the island, noted for it's greenery and rain.
Thursday morning. Our vacation is already about half spent! I knew it was going to be a long day, making the whole island circuit. At 9 a.m. we stopped by Costco on our way out of town yesterday morning, to see if they open earlier here, hoping to pick up a new digital camera for Mary. We then headed north. Following the guidebook (Hawaii--The Big Island Revealed) suggestion, we had breakfast at the Hawaiian Style Cafe in Waimea. The author got that one right--huge portions, including meat. Ranch country, pretty and fresh at 2500 ft. elevation.
We continued through lovely country, including vast stands of eucalypti. We took a short walk through rain forest to Akaka Falls, a 420-footer. Then to the Hawaii Tropical Botanical Garden, a lush preserve that borders the beautiful ocean. While this part of the island is so green due to lots of rain, yesterday it was beautiful--sun and blue skies. The garden is on a steep hillside. Mom got lots of admiration for trooping around it. We'll be celebrating her 92nd birthday on Saturday!
Knowing we had a long trip back, we just skirted Hilo. It was a pretty town. We reached Hawaii Volcanoes Nat'l Park at about 5 p.m. We drove to 3 viewing places. Part of the crater rim drive is closed due to current volcanic activity and high levels of sulfur dioxide. It would have been a much longer trip if we had visited the Puna region, where hot lava can be seen, sometimes plummeting in to the ocean. Kate and I walked through a lava tube, a cave created when molten lava suddenly quit flowing, after the top had cooled and hardened. The below ground, hotter liquid magma flowed out, leaving the tube.
Back on our clockwise trip around the island, we skipped Black Sand and Green Sand Beaches, as well at South Point, as night was approaching. In the dark, it was a long 50 miles on curvy road back to Kona. We were all troopers but especially little Juliet, stuck in her car seat. Mercifully, after miles on NO signs of civilization on this only road around the southwest part of the island, we came upon a pizza place about 20 miles south of Kona. We got back in time for a dip in the pool/hot tub, before the 10 o'clock pool curfew. I previewed and saved pics to the laptop before another restful night on my couch-bed.
It's now Thursday afternoon. Mom is visiting the University of the Nations, a missionary endeavor,while the girls shop. I'm sitting with my right leg propped up—to discourage a new bleed. We went snorkeling today at Honaunau Bay, formerly known as the City of Refuge. Beautiful coral. After following a turtle for a while, I decided to go to shore with my underwater camera, as I'd taken the last picture and I didn't want to have to worry about dropping it. The lava shoreline looked okay and I thought I had only a slight bump climbing out. But, then I noticed a stream of blood running down my leg. Whatever I bumped (coral or lava) was very sharp—it filleted my knee open for about an inch. So, I get to play invalid. I hope it heals enough to go back in the water tomorrow.
I purchased internet access at the desk for the week. The signal isn't good enough here in the condo unit. After the sunset, I plan to hobble out by the pool, get on line, add this to my blog.

blog creation day

With Hawaii less than a month away, I'm setting up my blog. Recent travel blogs from SE Asia by Roger's son, Alex, have inspired me. With laptop along, I'm expecting to be able to add digital pics to my notes from the road. I got the emailing-while-traveling bug from Julie. Delightful reading--her pangs of hunger fresh in her mind, after being lost for hours in a French vineyard.

The archived emails were not spell-checked, but I’m not going to try to edit them.
First, I figured out how to add about 5 photos, appearing ahead of each segment. Then I found that Picasa is an easy way to add photo albums. Early in each narrative you'll find the Picasa link (“http://picasa….”) to a few of my favorite pics from that trip. I know, some of the pics are repeats, but I think they’re worth viewing twice!

I welcome your comments, especially if you seek my advice--treat me like I'm a savvy traveler (Look out, Rick Steves!). If interested in nice and affordable Mexican accommodations, ask about my timeshare deals.

To view entries from past years, click on the year in the Archives--upper right of the main page or click on "Older Posts" at the bottom.

Ordered by date, my emails from past travels:

November 2006 – Oaxaca
November 2005 – Guadalajara to Puerto Vallarta
June 2005 – Cabo
November 2004 - Oaxaca
September 2004 – China & Tibet
November 2003 – Cuba & Mexico
November 2002 – New Zealand & Australia

John

wrinkles45@comcast.net

253-841-4948

Oaxaca 2006

Oaxaca Notes, November 2006

1) Sat., 11/4

'Not much time right now to recap the first 3 days here in Huatulco, on the southern Pacific coast of Mexico. Sister Mary and I met up with my college buddy, Wade, in Mexico City, before flying on here Wednesday.

Stay tuned for a selection of pics from the 3 of us in coming days, including our boat ride along the coast with snorkeling stops yesterday and our van ride into the mountains today, to hike along a river with one waterfall after another, including swimming in pools and getting waterfall massages.

More details soon.

John

Trip photo hightlights: http://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/Oaxaca2006


2) 11/7

Tuesday night. One week since leaving home.The flights down were uneventful. In Mexico City, where Wade, my best friend from Berkeley in the mid-60s joined Mary and me, we were a little anxious, as the gate for departure to Huatulco wasn't announced until about 5 minutes before boarding time.Huatulco is a large area along the Southern Pacific coast slated to be the next big tourist destination in Mexico. There are some fancy hotels in one area, Tanglolunda, but even there a lot of jungle gives it a natural feel. We stayed in a nice small hotel in Crucecita, the business center for the area. After the first day of snorkeling (The pictures send in my first email), we spend most of Thursday boating along the coast and snorkeling. Wade was a trooper. Not only is he a self-described non-swimmer with a near drowning in years past, he may have suffered a mild stroke recently that has left the left side of his face somewhat paralyzed. Notwithstanding, he snorkeled several times and enjoyed it.Saturday we took a van up in to the Sierra Madre del Sur, hiked along the Copalita River--a series of waterfalls culminating in a couple of pools, complete with swinging rope and shoulder/back massages by waterfalls. The promised visit to a coffee farm didn't get included. We have hopes of doing that as we leave here.Sunday my camera stopped working. The friendly local camera store didn't have a repair person and did not give reason to hope there was any place in Huatulco that could fix the power button which lost it's spring. I had bought a Smart Media card there earlier, which is the outdated card my camera uses. They took it back and gave me 15% off on a little digital camera that I'm trying to get acquainted with. I'm trusting Mary to take pics and send them to me.After 4 nights in Huatulco we caught a cab to Puerto Angel, a previous haunt. The Rincon, perched above the crashing waves, is closed. We ended up at Puesta del Sol, a clean hotel on the hillside. But, after being spoiled by AC in Huatulco, along with roosters who fail to understand they are to wait until dawn to crow, along with a chorus of barking dogs, Mary and I didn't sleep so well. The other thing is going to bed much earlier than at home.But, we were up for another boat ride/snorkeling outing the next day. The best snorkeling spot turned out to be Estacahuite Beach, the spot where 2 years ago I immersed the electronic security key for our rental VW.We moved on yesterday to Zipolite, a lovely beach only a few km down the road. Wade liked the setting so well he decided to stay. He is meeting friends up the coast in Puerto Vallarta in a week or two and looks forward to a slow pace and work on his laptop. It was great to see him again after 40 years. We'll keep in touch better.Mary read in the travel guide about this hotel in Puerto Escondido, owned by Mr. Voss, a German. Our maternal grandfather was a Voss, with roots in Germany, so we decided to stay with our distant relative. 'Nice place, across from the surfing beach here. We`ve already met several interesting and friendly fellow guests. AC again! I expect to sleep better tonight. Should I check on election returns before bed?!Wade promises to put together a slide show of our best pics and send on to me. I hope to be able to include a link in my next email.John

3) 11/11

Greetings from the fresh mountain climate of the beautiful colonial city of Oaxaca. Some of you may know this has been a hotbed of protest for months, beginning with a teacher strike in May and widening into a call for the resignation of the state governor. A week ago federal troops arrived and re-took the center of the city, the zocalo. Protestors have reportedly retreated to a university campus. When we arrived today the streets were clogged with traffic and life seems for the most part normal. Less of us tourists. Lots of graffitti, most of it painted over.

Picking up from my last report: before I forget it, let me share the hot lead I got from Ian and Lisha, guests at Hotel Inez: buy property in Montenegro. They say it's one of the newest countries in the world, next to Bosnia and Croatia--east across the Adriatic Sea from Italy. I've heard from others that the dollar goes much further in European countries that have not yet become full members of the European Common Market and have the Euro for currency.

The AC at the Inez didn't work well. Neither Mary or I slept well and felt it wasn't worth the 500 pesos (exchange rate between 10 and almost 11 pesos to the dollar, depending on how/where dollars are converted). We had a recommendation from Eliana, whom we met in Oaxaca 2 years ago--the Mayflower Hotel/hostel in the city center of Puerto Escondido (PE). We spend the next 2 nights there. No AC, but breezes plus the fan was bearable. We met a few of the backpackers that were staying in the dorms.

We had a wonderful dinner of a whole red snapper our first night in PE. But, the next day we were both hit with a bug. Minne, the outspoken German who runs the Mayflower, concluded it was the complimentary tuna we also ate--restaurants here hate to throw old food out so they give it to guests. We got some relief going to massages and Temezcals--local variation of a sweat lodge. Very nice.

Friday morning we headed to a lovely beach just outside of PR for our last snorkeling of this trip. Waves were choppy and it was a ways out to the coral reef, where the colorful fish reside. Mary caught sight of a sting ray, quite close to her and had something of a panic (You'll recall it was a sting ray that did in that Aussie chap), which effected her use of her snorkel. It was a struggle to get back to the beach, where she decided to stay. I headed back out to the reef. Suddenly a huge wave sent me reeling and then pushed me toward the rocky shore. Rather than fight my way back in to deeper water, where another huge wave could find me, I decided to land on the rocks. Skin scrapped off two fingers was about the extent of the damage. We shall pay more head to ocean conditions when snorkeling in the future.

Weary of the heat and humidity of the coast, I talked Mary in to heading for the mountains a day before our reserved week begins here at Casa San Felipe. Yesterday we caught a van to Juquila, about 7-8000 feet up in the pine forests of the Sierra Madre del Sur. It's famous for it´s Virgin, believed to grant prayer requests. We happened on to a Mexican fireworks display. Today's van for the remainder of the winding and bumpy road in to Oaxaca was thankfully less crowded that the one yesterday, which left us thinking a 2nd class bus would have been an improvement.

Things are indeed improving. Our bouts with turista are passing. And we are back in the familiar, lovely Casa San Felipe (CSF). We were here two years ago. CSF is one of our timeshare exchange places, a converted colonial mansion.

You can go to the trouble of downloading all 169 pictures from our first 4 days in Huatulco from here: http://s13.photobucket.com/albums/a300/wadehudson/

Or, you can wait for a selection of the best that Wade is still working on and will be forwarding to me. Alas, except for the first group of about a dozen sent earlier, my photos are not available during the trip. The new cheapy digital I bought is working, it seems, but the tiny screen previews aren't that great. But, Wade and Mary have some great pics. Mary has a digital underwater camera and she is learning to use it! Wade's photo-sharpening program helps too.

I found this one-monitor Internet spot around the corner form CSF. They turned the lights on for me. They're probably ready to turn them off again. So,

Hasta luego,

John






4) 11/19

“The week in Oaxaca (‘Wa-ha-ka’)”

Sunday morning, back home at my familiar keyboard, where I won’t keep hitting CAPS LOCK accidentally, as I did on most Mexican keyboards. Before it all fades in to memory, here’s a recap of our last week.

Sunday morning Mary and I caught a bus to the Sunday market at Tlacolula. I had remembered great photo opts there 3 years ago and we were not disappointed. ‘Big outdoor market, combination of food and crafts and whatever. We bought small (Read: hopefully to be packed in carryon luggage and get home without breaking) pottery pieces, some fruit and nuts. My new digital worked fairly well for shooting from the hip. Many Indians do not like having their pictures taken. If I can master the digital zoom, maybe I can get some good close ups.

While I had Mitla (a pre-Columbian ruin) and Hierve el Agua, a pretty natural area, on the Sunday To Do calendar, I felt like heading back to town after the market and Mary concurred. I don’t have the stamina of those younger backpacking days, but I arthritically cling to the illusion I still am one.

We had dinner on the zocalo with Sara Sunday night. Thorntree (http://thorntree.lonelyplanet.com/) is an online travel forum run by Lonely Planet travel guidebooks. It’s huge, with lots of contributors from all around the world. As a way to get tips on a place you are traveling, go to that country or region and enter a search word. I found Sara among the regular contributors to discussion of the current Oaxaca situation--the teacher/APPO (Popular Assembly of the Oaxacan People--http://www.indybay.org/newsitems/2006/11/11/18328910.php) standoff with the government. Sara, an American living between Baja and Oaxaca for many years, continues to report on her love of the people and places, of her sense of personal safety in Oaxaca, in spite of the standoff and sporadic violence. As expected, Sara was a hoot. She is an artist and Mary decided to take a few lessons from Armando, Sara’s mentor at the Rooftop Studio.

Monday we re-visited the markets in Oaxaca, bought hand-woven clothing and mole, had lunch at the Hotel Chocolate. After Mary’s first art lesson, we had dinner at a local spot with Sara, Armando and his gal/fellow artist, Xochil. I spent some time meandering amongst the APPO supporters near Santo Domingo church, but didn’t end up engaging anyone in discussion.

Tuesday we spend some time looking for museums and exhibits. Some were closed due to the unrest. It’s still true—my experience in Latin America asking for directions—people tend to give an answer, even if they don’t have a clue. We got a workout following varied instructions on how to find an exhibit of photos of Dia de lost Muertos (Day of the Dead). In the afternoon we visited Las Cupulas (www.oaxaca-mio.com/lascupulas_eng.htm), another Raintree Vacation Club (RVC) timeshare north of Oaxaca in the San Felipe del Agua neighborhood. About 15 minutes travel time if traffic is light, which means a good half hour any time during the day, given Oaxaca’s clogged streets. Another lovely 9-room pension, companion to Casa San Felipe. Future visits may include an R & R at Las Cupulas after a few days at CSF, including hiking into the nearby hills.

Wednesday morning we had breakfast with Luis, RVC sales person—an update on member services. The concierge at CSF had asked if I would meet with RVC bigwigs, to express my satisfaction. With news reports of the unrest and our embassy recommending against travel to Oaxaca, RVC is contemplating closing down CSF and Las Cupulas until the tourist industry rebounds. ‘Turns out Luis wanted to meet with me in any case, to talk about RVC, as he heads a sales staff now housed in Oaxaca. I warned him I am not interested in buying more timeshare time, as we already have the two weeks in Whistler which give us tremendous trading power (our week at CSF used only 2 of our 26 annual “points”!). Luis was great, and made no effort to sell me more time. We talked about again developing a Huatulco RVC destination, as well as one on Cozumel, which had been under consideration a couple of years ago.

In the afternoon we caught a collective taxi to the market in Etla. Small compared to Tlacolula, but still colorful. I bought some red pottery from a nice vendor and took more photos. Mary has a trigger finger, fills up her digital camera cards quickly, so downloading to cds is a means of freeing up cards for more pics. We found a fancy photo shop in Oaxaca that downloaded to cd while we waited, complete with index cards showing tiny shots of all pics. I was encouraged that my new camera is taking better pictures than the little LCD screen suggests. It will take me a while to get around to loading the camera’s software in to my computer, but maybe I’ll send you some of my best shots in the near future. Wade and I had
Some crossed emails about our best from Huatulco, so in the first 20 are some shots I wouldn’t have included, but, as promised, here’s the selection of 40 from our first few days on the coast: http://s13.photobucket.com/albums/a300/wadehudson/Mexico/Hualtulco%202006/Best/


Thursday morning we visited the pre-Columbian ruin of Yagul, on a hillside in the valley east of Oaxaca. Mary and I were the only visitors, yet another sign of the ailing tourist business. The fortress overlooking the small ruins provided wonderful views, including the lovely surrounding farmlands.

On to Teotitlan del Valle, a town famous for its weavers. Two years ago Mary and I had befriended a family there, promised to send copies of pictures we took, but we misplaced their address. So, our return, with the promised photos, was quite the hit. The cute little two year old is now four, still adorable. They brought out the mole, chocolate and mescal. We, of course, bought more rugs. ‘Also made new friends with another rug seller before we got out of town.

Friday, last day, Mary was not excited about another bus ride up winding roads in to the mountains. She had her last art class and final shopping while I caught a bus to Caujimoloyas, at 3100 meters (x 39.33/12 = 10,160 feet elevation), up in the cloud forest country of Pueblos Mancomunados, 8 Indian villages that own the land collectively. I was fortunate to get off the bus with Ruth, a biologist working with the Pueblos to promote ecotourism—hiking and mountain biking. I tagged along to a campsite development and hiked along a small stream for a couple of hours. The drizzle became serious rain just as I got back to the campsite, where hot tea and lunch was waiting. I bought a nice map for a return in the future--one or two nights, hiking with a guide to get deeper into the lovely Sierra Norte.

Back to town after scrambling for a ride due to a bus that was a no show, I expected Mary at CFS. Half an hour after dark, still no Mary, I began to worry. It seemed very unlikely that she was detained or couldn’t find her way back to CSF. Perhaps she was having trouble finding that xxl dark shirt for Paul… I failed to consider the Sara Factor. After art lesson, Sara accompanied Mary to the organic market and shopping, then drinks at the nice hotel…. Mary suggested calling CSF to tell me where they were…. Anyway, it ended well.

Yesterday was airports and flights. Close call in Dallas, where Mary’s bag was pulled aside and gone through. I rushed ahead to try and hold her plane to Portland. She made it with 5 minutes to spare. The 4-hour trip to Seattle was shortened by sitting next to a friendly young couple heading to the northwest for Thanksgiving. We talked about Newport and the Silvia Beach Hotel, ended up playing “2 Truths and a Lie” for awhile. Fun—even a couple can come up with lies about themselves that can stump each other!

My checked duffle bag not making the plane out of Dallas was not the desired final touch, but just now, as I’m writing this, the American Airlines van showed up at our door with the duffle bag!

Back to a stack of mail and lots of loose ends here at home. Maybe I’ll add a summing up in the near future, along with those promised photos.

John

November 29

‘Been back from Mexico a week and a half. ‘Seems longer. The other night, looking at the new digital camera, card full of Oaxaca pictures, I tried to figure out how to use the digital zoom to enlarge parts of pictures. ‘Found “Format” and clicked on it, to see if that would get me to the zoom feature. Nope. Without realizing it, I was in the “Erase” mode. I knew better than to hit “Erase All”. Well, “Format” does the same thing!! I’ve called a few camera places and I’m hoping the pictures can be retrieved. Chances are better, since I haven’t taken any new pictures on the card after erasing it.

IF I get them back, I’ll send along some of the best. Attached here are the best from the cd I had burned of pictures, beginning in Zipolite, on the beach, to the Sunday market at Tlacolula. A few captions (the pictures are not arranged sequentially—look for the corresponding #):

02—panorama of Zipolite beach
03—Wade observing a game of chess at Shambhala
18—a crane braving the surf at Puerto Escondido
28—Mary, waiting for the van taking us into the mountains
29—An exhausted Mary, still able to salute with a “V” after hours of curves and chuckholes, squished in to the middle seat of the stuffy van
41—buying souvenirs in Juquila, famous for it’s wish-granting Virgin, high in the mountains
66—the lovely, comfy Casa San Felipe
92—looking at me, NOT noticing my hip-held camera
99—cheese taster
112—the confessional
118—federales in the zocalo

For your future travel plans—be aware, beginning in a few weeks from now, you must have a passport to fly back in to the US from ANYWHERE:

Beginning January 23, 2007, ALL persons, including U.S. citizens, traveling by air between the United States and Canada, Mexico, Central and South America, the Caribbean, and Bermuda will be required to present a valid passport, Air NEXUS card, or U.S. Coast Guard Merchant Mariner Document. Source website: http://www.travel.state.gov/travel/cbpmc/cbpmc_2223.html
Finally, John’s infomercial: I have previously mentioned to some of you that I have lots of very nice vacation opportunities. I just found another too-good-to-pass-up deal that expands our already substantial annual inventory of timeshare weeks.

The parent company, Raintree Vacation Club (RVC), now has a good website. It gives a feel for the various resorts we can trade in to:

http://www.raintreevacationclub.com/GetClubResortNavScreen.event

Seasons (high, regular, low) and size of unit (studio to 3-bedroom) determine how many “points” we spend. Lucy and I may take our big retirement trip (Europe & East Africa) next May. If so, we will be looking for takers for one or both of the two 2-bedroom (each sleeping up to 6) condos at Jackson Hole that we reserved for 5/26 to 6/2. While their posted rack rate is $300/night during the slow spring season (really, early summer), $400 (per condo) will cover our costs for the whole week.

Our RVC membership is via ownership of timeshare weeks at Whistler. On finding that there are some steals on re-sales at Whistler, I thought of telling you of the deals to be had. But, I’ve learned it now costs $4000 to join RVC, on top of the price for the timeshare week, which makes it much less of a steal.

So, it makes more sense to be my guests. In addition to that dream getaway for yourself, you can send family, friends or business associates. Travel is not included. I don’t have special leads on low airfares. If you know someone who works for an airline they may have unused guest passes.

Low seasons vary by resort. Surf through the resorts on the website listed above. For destinations of interest, I can send you the different seasons and costs, per condo-size.
As our guests, you or those you send, will be treated as owners during a week’s stay, not subjected to time-consuming, high-pressured sales pitches, which is the case with introductory packages designed to persuade you to buy a timeshare.

And, don’t forget our Oregon Coast bluff cottage—www.lowryrentals.com

John
253-841-4948

Guadalajara to Puerto Vallarta 2005

Mexico, Guadalajara – Puerto Vallarta. 10/29 – 11/15/05


I. It's Wednesday morning. Mary's digital camera cards are full. So, before we head in to the mountains, she needs to get pics saved to discs. While waiting, an opportunity for me to send this dispatch.

Guadalajara to PV pics-

https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMteZHKrfL1wJBfjBhsnh1e8b-3YMs74IJzB-F1

Flights to Guadalajara were uneventful. We all rejoiced at getting the green light passing through customs (Red means a search of baggage). Mary's friend from years ago at the group home, Lori, is traveling with us the first 10 days. They both still work keeping clients out of institutions in Oregon.

Our reserved room at the youth hostel was given away (Did they see us climbing the stairs and decide we didn’t belong?). The nice gal behind the desk was very apologetic and paid our cab to the Hotel Sevilla. Clean, but noisy, hard beds, no ambience. So we made our way to Posada San Pedro, a 14 room inn that caters to longer stay students. Our room with 4 beds was an improvement, but the señora was a pill--scolding us for entering the kitchen reserved for the students and refusing use of the coffee maker. For our 4th night we moved to the San Francisco Plaza, classy old hotel. All hotels have been in the historic center, walking distance to the plazas, historic buildings (with Orozco murals adorning the vaulted ceilings), huge churches, massive city market.

Despite jet lag, we made it to the Tonolà Sunday market--streets lined with all kinds of goods, many with "factories" right behind their street stalls. 'Don't know if I'm losing my bargaining edge or they just aren't as inclined to negotiate here, but some deals weren't made, like the massive iron rosary that Lori liked.

Monday, after a good night of sleep, we hit the panaderia for an assortment of breads and tarts. 'Talked the señora in to making us a pot of coffee. Then off to Mercado Libertad. 'Covers 4 city blocks. `Found some xxl t shirts, as my small supply was already residing mostly in the dirty clothes bag. Cabbed it next to Zapopan, famous church and site of the Huichol museum. Payote has a sacred place in Huichol life and perhaps has contributed to their colorful clothing and beaded jewelry. We scored some great t shirts there.

Yesterday we visited the Hospicio Cabañas, a world heritage site, being set up for a big concert. At first it looked closed, but we were able to get in and see the chapel with the Orozco murals. 'On to the market for a second foray. I found a bag to carry acquisitions. On return to the hotel room I decided it was too big--swallows up my snorkeling fins. But, Mary tells me we can make good use of it.

Last night we visited Tlaquepaque, a Guadalajara suburb with lots of shops and historic preservation. 'Met the nicest shopkeeper, a former resident of BC for 5 years. `Bought ceramic house numbers and a metal frame to go with (`Have to fill up that new bag!).

We rented a horse and buggy to check out a local cemetery for the first night (honoring children) of Day of the Dead, only to find a crowd outside the gate and tickets sold out to the midnight fun house-type of affair. Consolation was a full hour touring the city with the pleasant and knowledgeable buggy driver.

From here we go south to Lake Chapala, decide whether to stay the night there and hopefully participate in second night of Day of the Dead, or catch a bus on to Tapalpa, a mountain village.

When I find time at an internet cafe along the road I'll fill you in.

John

II. Hola,
Last I wrote you-all we were about to leave Guadalajara. Wed. a.m. our cabbie ('Spoke fair English, was working in the Yakima Valley and got covered by ash when Mt. St. Helens blew) to the old bus station talked us in to a taxi all the way to Lake Chapala, most of an hour south. 'Good decision. The town of Chapala didn't attract us as we drove through, nor did the touted hotel there. La Posada Nueva in neighboring Ajijic was a delight. Excellent food, cranes on lily pads in the lake, as if planted there to be photogenic.
2nd night of Day of the Dead was mostly a bust too. We visited the local cemetery at dusk. It would have been better to go in the day time, perhaps chat with families making the elaborate flower arrangements that were everywhere. As it got dark visiting was impossible, as numerous musical groups were competing with each other throughout the cemetery, as well as repeated fireworks of the big boom ilk.
Next morning we opted for the long cab ride again, as getting from Lake Chapala to Tapalpa, up in the mountains not far to the west looked to be quite a challenge--'would require catching 3 buses. Another nice cabbie, who stayed with us as we checked out the overpriced first hotel and took our considerable luggage to el Hotel Hacienda. 400 vs. 1000 pesos and more beds too! (Currently exchange is about 10.5 pesos to the dollar. That’s been staying fairly stable, as the dollar loses value internationally. Meanwhile, Mexico prices go up over time, as always. Bottom line—things are more expensive for us.)
Besides the fresh air and pine forests, I wanted to visit the school for disabled in Tapalpa, known for their creative art made from refuse, which they call “papelmalecho”. I think I mentioned in the first email that both Mary and Lori are skilled at keeping formerly institutionalized folk in community living. We visited with students in the art studio, making flowers, canisters, suns, moons, etc. from old tin cans, plastic bottles and other trash. Fun stuff. We then made a significant hit on the inexpensive "store" on site, following up with a visit to Carlos’ gallery in his mother's home.
Tapalpa is beautiful. While few gringo tourists go there, Mexico knows and has included it in the Programa Pueblos Mágicos. 20 of Mexican’s most historic and beautiful towns have been identified and receive funding to keep and promote their heritages: San Cristóbal de las Casas, in Chiapas; Parras de la Fuente, in Coahuila; Comala, in Colima; Dolores Hidalgo and San Miguel de Allende, in Guanajuato; Taxco, in Guerrero; Real del Monte and Huasca de Ocampo, in Hidalgo; Tapalpa, Mazamitla and Tequila, in Jalisco; Tepotzotlán, in the State of México; Pátzcuaro and Tlalpujahua, in Michoacán; Tepoztlán, in Morelos; Mexcaltitán, in Nayarit; Cuetzalan, in Puebla; Real de Catorce, in San Luis Potosí; Izamal, in Yucatán and Valle de Bravo, in the State of México. While I have seen a lot of Mexico, there are still many places to go!

III. The next morning, outside Tapalpa the active Colima volcano showing off--steam shooting up. Just down the hill from our hotel we caught the first of 3 buses, on our way to Manzanillo on the coast. Each bus was thankfully nicer than the previous. On arrival in Manzanillo we grabbed a taxi to the northern suburb of Santiago and wisely didn't bid adios to the taxi. After checking out 4-5 hotels we were unhappy with price, location and appearance and hired the cabbie to take us on up the coast to the village of La Manzanilla. We stayed two nights, had some good food, met nice fellow travelers. We’ve made several "small world" connections. A couple of gals at the next table one night live in Sagle, Idaho (just south of Sandpoint), within shouting distance of where my parents lived for many years. An art gallery owner spends half her year in Mendocino. My brother in law's name seemed familiar. She definitely knew the late great Frank Creasy, Lucy’s uncle. Her friend bought land from him.

The bus in to Puerto Vallarta on Sunday was fancy. Jackie Chan action flicks competed for our attention with the jungle we were rolling through. On arrival at the time share (Club Regina--CR--next to the Westin Hotel) we were fortunate that our room was ready early and has one of the best views in the complex--11th floor facing the ocean. Monday Mom and Donna arrived. That night Mary Ann took all of us to dinner. Winner of the grand prize (a timeshare week) at last year's Lowry Rentals holiday party, she and friend Darlene overlapped us here.

Tuesday Lori flew home. We’ve been somewhat slow-paced since. I’ve had a bit of a cold (first in a couple of years!). I blame that recycled air on the flights down. (Will I look silly next trip when I come stumbling on to the plane, clutching my two oversized carry-ons, with a surgical mask covering my mouth and nose?) Generally we've been healthy, not getting too much sun, unlike the majority of visitors baking around the pools. Mary has dubbed us the Noroeste (NW) mystic hillbillies. We have a kitchen in the condo and have made several runs to the supermarket. Prices at the restaurants at the Westin are truly jaw-dropping. Our one meal next to the pool Sunday--two cheeseburgers, a club, 2 beers and one mixed drink--$60 with tip!

I look for pool and beach volleyball each day but have only found one of each in the first 6 days.

We’ve bused in to town a few times. ´Found Loncheria Don Viejo Jorge, next to the flea market. No tables, just bar stools, where we watch the cook. The food's sabrosa. And good prices! We Lowrys do worry unnecessarily about ¨How much does it cost?" But I barked back at the gal on the beach yesterday, when she admonished us to just spend our money while on vacation.

Mary has had an on-going saga trying to recover digital fotos she supposedly had "saved" to cd in Guadalajara. We will return from this internet cafe to a pharmacy where a well-meaning young Mexican has her photo card.

I went snorkeling at Mismaloya Beach yesterday. Fair. We’re considering renting a boat to get us to the islands at the north end of the bay.

'Time to go find out about Mary's photos.

Hasta luego,

John

IV. Summing up, Guadalajara to Puerto Vallarta

I’m home. Before it fades further, the rest of our trip:

Some things don’t change. Like time promises in Latin America. “Un ratito” should mean “a little wait” (certainly less than “un rato”). But, after an hour at the internet, on return to the pharmacy in search of Rafael (the guy who volunteered to try and retrieve Mary’s missing pics), he still hadn’t returned. So, opportunity for another 3rd world haircut. I didn’t expect to match the fabulous outcome of my Tibet experience, reported here last year*. And, I speak pretty good Spanish (Thankfully, as I wonder about possible brain damage from falling off my bike—or, just emerging senility--I find fairly fluent Spanish comes back to me time and again). It’s my fault. The gal started with a fairly thick guide on the electric razor. ‘Did a strip on my temple and asked if that was short enough. 3 times I told her to go shorter. She did. The good news: it will grow out in time. For a beard trim as well, she asked 45 pesos (Remember?—10.5 to the dollar).

Our pace was somewhat slower the last few days. Why rush away from the nice, spacious condo with the superb view and several swimming pools below? There is one reason—prices at the restaurants, so we made several Walmart (‘Sorry to my socialist friends—we didn’t have a good, frugal alternative) runs, mostly for salad stuff, pastries and WATER—10-liter megabottles (3.8 liters = one gallon!). We did good—managed to drain 3 of them in a week.

Sunday we took local buses to Bucerias, a small town north of PV. What we strolled through of the dusty Sunday market wasn’t that interesting. We decided wading the small creek (No bridge in sight) to get to the rest of the market wasn’t worth it. So, we bought a whole watermelon for 10 pesos and found a café on the beach, where we bought sodas, chips and salsa and had the melon cut up. Mom and Mary had a nice beach walk. Mary and I got tattoos for vacationers.

Sunday evening Mary began checking on boat trips. The Monday trip to swim with dolphins in the open ocean was fully booked. After signing up for the Tuesday morning boat, we agreed the risk of not making it back in time for her afternoon Alaska flight was too great. I headed to the wharf Monday morning and made a deal with the skipper of Burton II—4 hours, starting with following a school of dolphins. The first snorkeling cove was lovely, except for the stinging jellyfish. We didn’t stay long. The scenery to the next site was beautiful—jungle coming down to the water, lots of rugged rocks, with small sandy beaches interspersed. We saw more fish at the second snorkel site, but there were still some jellyfish—pretty until they drifted in to us. Initially I had asked to skip Los Arcos (“The Arches”, a few small islands just off shore), as it is a major tourist destination. Since it was not much of a detour on our return to port and we hadn’t had much snorkeling, I asked we stop there. ‘Good decision. NO jellyfish; huge schools of colorful fish. Mom could see many of them from the boat. A great day. Lots of sun, but the 30-proof sunscreen did its job, even on my nearly bald scalp.

Fortunately, before the week was over we discovered the Westin spa was open to us, no admission fee! Great facilities—sauna, steam room, shower with 15 heads!

When making frequent flyer award travel reservations, I couldn’t get flights to match the end of our timeshare week (Sunday). Short-term rental rates for owners at Club Regina (CR) are good, but they didn’t have a one bedroom (what we had) or two bedroom. While the studio unit is supposed to be maximum occupancy of two, the PV CR studios with kitchenettes come with two “matrimonio” (full) beds. They said the 4 of us could move in to a studio. Even in the one bedroom, I had been sleeping on a rollaway bed. I asked that they add one to our studio, but they said the room was too small. We all slept well enough Sunday night but when I found a friendly concierge Monday, I tried again (“Please bend the rules if you can—not only am I sleeping with my SISter, her arms get numb if she can’t stretch out!”). No luck, but we did okay. I woke up with a need to bus back in to town for last minute shopping at the flea market and was late getting back for the cab to the airport, but all the flight connections went smoothly.

Until the next trip, enjoy.

John
wrinkles45@comcast.net
253-841-4948

* Monday morning prior to leaving for the airport some distance from Lhasa, I decided I had time to get a haircut. I stepped in to a barbershop in the city, was escorted to a chair, where a gal commenced to shampoo and massage my head. After several minutes of massage, I made a motion with my fingers, beginning to worry she thought I came in only for a scalp massage. After a rinse, I was led to another chair where a guy cut my hair. Initially he was only going to take off a little. I repeatedly gestured for shorter, "like a monk". Shorter I got. While I'm unsure that I saw "beyond the veil" as Madi promised in her promo on the trip, I leave Tibet manifestly changed in outward appearance! When I went to pay, the cashier held up 2 fingers. I disappointedly assumed she wanted 200 yuen, which would be almost $20. Noting my expression, she showed me a 20 yuen bill--with 10 yuen tips to both masseuse and barber, I still spent less than $4.

Cabo 2005

Sunday, 6/26/05, First log from Cabo

Before subjecting you to my black and white prose, how 'bout some more photos?
https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipPV0xWDbt4_r8SGudUHCf0nBFvwUtTh8Wje0_xe

More photos --
https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipMMuqr8bwmaQjZ9O8PNpsYdY8iyi-Ug3o1zDVE_

Sunday, 6/26/05, First log from Cabo

It's Sunday afternoon in Cabo San Lucas. The gals are going shopping (Daughter Kate, Sister Mary, Niece Deanna), so I can ramble on here.

We started out Wednesday, crack of dawn. Kate and I via Alaska stand-by. Plenty of seats on the flight to SF, where we barely made it connection-wise to the Cabo flight. And we knew seat availability was tight. But we made it. I asked a flight attendant how many extra seats there were and she said "none", so we were very fortunate, since we were subject to being bumped by most every other category of stand-by.

On landing in Cabo, we headed for Advantage car rental. I expected my Travelocity reservation at less than $20/day was way too good to be true. Sure enough--they make it up in charging insurance at a rate equal to or more than the rental cost. But, hey, we're fully insured. 'Had time to run Kate to the condo and get checked in and return to pick up Mary and Deanna at the airport. ('Just lost internet connection, but the staff here got it back w/o erasing--whew!).

Our week at the condo is actually Sat.-Sat. So, after the first night we headed for Cabo Pulmo, up the East Cape. Reportedly the best snorkeling on the Mexican Pacific Coast. We swung in to Santiago on our way. After a lovely lunch in a garden with mangoes and other tropical fruit, we headed up the dirt road to the hot springs. Not the most picturesque, but the water was hot and Mary and I have done another wild hot spring.

The road turned to gravel a few km. before Cabo Pulmo, but we made it by late afternoon and checked in to our 2 palapas, in time to head to the beach. Without specific instructions, we decided to try snorkeling off the beach. It was windy and after Mary got knocked down by a breaker and another stole one of Deanna's fins we didn't go in far. Instead we met Juan and make a deal to boat/snorkel Friday morning.

Thursday night was highlighted by a big black bug with red wings dive-bombing Mary and a few huge cockroaches scurrying away.

After swimming with a huge school of fish, Juan dropped us to snorkel near Playa Arbolitos. Kate had only been in the water a few minutes when, following an especially pretty fish, she was thrown on the rocks by a wave. 'Scrapped up both arms and one leg pretty good. A couple of the gashes were deeper, so we jumped in the car and headed up the coast to Rivera. The doctor was in. After some discussion, no stitches. A lot of cleaning and disinfecting and tapping cuts. Kate was a trooper. As prescribed, she's taking the antibiotics and pain pills and still joining us on most outings. Juan was a sweet guy, felt badly about not warning Kate. I too should have given her more snorkeling instruction. She's going to have a couple of scars to remind her of her first Mexico trip with her dad.

We're now back in our AC condo at the Westin/Club Regina. 'Better view than the unit we had Wednesday night. 'Made a run to Costco yesterday to stock the refrigerator and shelves. Food is good but expensive, even at less than fancy places.

We're charting the rest of our week, giving Kate time to heal before checking out snorkeling beaches near Cabo (Yes, we will stay away from those waves crashing on the rocks!). As noted at the beginning, shopping has commenced.

The shoppers are back, so time to sign off.

Hasta pronto,

John


Log II, 6/28
It's Wednesday mid-day. Monday we drove up the coast to Todos Santos. 'Great beach picnic on the way. 'Fresher air on the Pacific side of the peninsula. Todos Santos is one of many Mexican enclaves of artist ex-pats. 'Saw some good original paintings, silver work and other stuff.

Returning to Cabo, we decided to find a sunset-viewing spot. After several re-directions, we didn't find the Hotel Solmar, but we did climb a steep switchback dirt road to the very top of the highest hill near Cabo and captured the caida del sol framed by cacti and other desert foliage.

Off the mountain without sliding, we found Romeo y Julietta for yummy pizza and Caesar salad made at our table. Back at the Westin/Club Regina condo (CR) we introduced Deanna to hearts. Kate won, but Deanna was a quick learner.

Speaking of Deanna, she is our one regular sunrise greeter, from the beach below CR. Mary has made some, as have I. Kate? 'Still enjoying no morning classes.

Our condo units are very nice. Lots of tile. Side-by-side studios, one with jacuzzi and king bed, the other with the kitchenette. The non-snorers, Kate and Deanna, have the king bed. One night I slept on the balcony. Nights have been muggier since. It's a bit of a walk to the parking garage, which we usually do. There are carts regularly traversing the hillside, carrying guests to and from the lobby.

CR is perched looking out at the Sea of Cortez. The crashing surf is formidable, even in the sandy areas away from the jagged rocks. Between the Westin and CR there are 7 swimming pools, including a sheet waterfall that is a great neck massager and a volleyball net. We had a somewhat competitive game going yesterday afternoon. I reluctantly quit, even though my team was 0-3, knowing the top of my head was getting lots of sun. Mary has loaned me her "Full City Coffee Roaster, Eugene" (my birthplace) cap, but I need to get a Cabo cap I can take in the water.
Before the pools yesterday we checked out the snorkeling beaches nearby, Deanna and I doing the investigative paddling. Playa Santa Maria was a bit rough. We're more skittish of getting near the rocks after Kate's mishap. The crowd of life preserver-decked tourists off-loaded from boats coming from Cabo didn't get in our way too much. Next we explored Playa Chilena. Visibility not as good as Cabo Pulmo. We left one promising area for a return snorkel by all.
Yesterday afternoon we explored more of San Jose del Cabo, the less touristy city at the northeast end of the Cabo Corridor. 'Had a great Thai dinner at a place run by another ex-pat. 'Too tired for more hearts last night. The sun during the day had taken its toll. 'Made for another full night's sleep (something I rarely get at home).
We're headed next to Playa Medano, the happenin' beach on the edge of Cabo. We may wait a day or two to take the glass-bottomed boat from there to Lover's Beach/Land's End, the very tip of Baja.
Hasta pronto,
John

Early a.m., Monday, 7/4, Cabo, the final chapter

While it’s fresh, here goes.

Picking up from the second entry on Wednesday: we showed up for the CR bar-b-cue Wednesday night. ‘Sat with gorgeous Chris and his brother. Deanna showed potential as a new single by commenting that the male models in the fashion show were way less good looking than Chris. Typical male, he rewarded her by going over to the food line to schmooze with a bikini-clad beauty.

Thursday was fairly laid back. ‘Checked out more potential places to stay Saturday night—Mary and Deanna ticketed to fly home Sunday and CR had not a single unit to let us rent for Saturday night. More volleyball in the pool in the afternoon.

Thursday night we took in a nightspot with free drinks for the gals and a Cuban Salsa band. Danced some. Deanna got a salsa lesson and looked good for most of it (except when she appeared to be reeling out of control).

Friday morning we returned to Chileno Beach to snorkel. ‘Still choppy, with limited visibility and, after Kate’s beating at Cabo Pulmo, we didn’t venture too close to shore. We returned to the CR pools and more pool volleyball in the afternoon.

Having spent less time in San Jose del Cabo, closer to CR than Cabo San Lucas and less touristy, we headed there late Friday afternoon. The estuary used to be a pretty place, lots of birds and flowers, but we were informed a hurricane a couple of years ago did it serious damage. So, with no nature walk to do, we settled for more shopping. I liked the young salesman at the fire opal shop. My bargaining skills aren’t what they were post-Peace Corps, but in those days I was intent on stretching the dollars over months of travel.

Saturday morning we checked out of CR, took our bags to our choice for Saturday night--Cabo Club Hotel and Camping Resort, AKA Hotel 39 (For $39 single), AKA Cabo Bed & Breakfast (The breakfast, turns out, is an extra $7 each). Tucked away down a dirt road not far from Cabo San Lucas, run by a Mexican woman and her ex-Seal Beach partner, whom we dubbed “FranK”, perhaps because he was rather outspoken. He gave us a bit of a discount when I mentioned I was writing to LOTS of friends. I’m suppose to put in a plug with you to stay at his place. The quarters were spacious, although the AC struggled.

As soon as we dropped bags, we were off to Medano Beach, for Kate and Deanna to parasail. They enjoyed it, but were out on the water longer than expected, as several on the boat took a turn in the air. On their return to shore, we re-launched via the glass-bottom boat, to Lover’s Beach and the Arch—Finnistierra, the tip of Baja, where the Sea of Cortez and the Pacific meet. We snorkeled from the beach, took lots of photos. Beautiful, but we all got more sun exposure than we needed.

We took in sunset at Hotel Solmar (“Sunsea”). I expect in the winter the sun sets in the Pacific when viewed from there. This time of year it sets over the hills, but the sky had some pretty clouds.

Mary and I were content to retire early while the youngsters had a last night in Cabo, bar-hopping and catching a cab to the hotel.

As mentioned in the first entry, Kate and I traveled on Alaska guest passes this trip. Sunday morning we struck out on the first two flights heading north. We elected to catch Mary and Deanna’s flight via San Francisco to Portland, with overnight in Portland, as we could stay with Deanna. However, on arrival in SF, we were able to hop a flight that got us home to Sea-Tac at 10 p.m. Nerve-racking, this flying stand-by. Especially when it involves someone else. And, Kate was hit with a bit of Moctezuma’s Revenge this morning. Fortunately, she felt better after getting whatever it was out of her system.

I climbed on the scale on arrival home and was disappointed to see I haven’t lost but a pound or two. Traveling with Lowry/Voss women I eat too well.

Summing up: While the weather was good, not very windy, the snorkeling was not as good as expected, and more dangerous. Club Regina was stunning, built in to the rugged cliffs above the crashing sea. We didn’t do it all, but the four us were very compatible and had a lot of fun.

The stellar digs at CR are made affordable by our exceptional timeshare trading power with Raintree Vacation Club (RVC). I’ve now stayed at CR Cancun and Cabo, as well as the RVC timeshares in Oaxaca and Acapulco. I’ve toured two more, Isla Mujeres and Zihuatanejo. That leaves CR Puerto Vallarta (PV) as the only Mexican RVC destination I have not been to. I’ve already made the annual reservation at Oaxaca for this November, so I’m not sure when I’ll find time to check out PV.

BTW, I have my 2006 RVC exchange calendar and our Whistler timeshares continue to have unbelievable trading power, turning two weeks in to as many as 13 weeks of use each year. I’m sure I’ve bored most of you way too much already. Being another timeshare salesman is NOT my intent! But, if you want to learn how you too can be challenged by so much vacation opportunity to use and share, ask me.

John