Nicaragua 2013

Early morning, Mon, Nov 4, San Juan del Sur, Nica 'Sitting on the balcony at Hostal Ariki, in San Juan del Sur, Nicaragua. Roosters are crowing, but I can’t see light in the sky yet—again, too early to bed, slept well but awake early. Making our way up the Costa Rican coast yesterday, checking out beaches & hamlets, I forgot we were low on gas. Once I noticed it, we were told the nearest gas station was about 30 km away. It was turn-off-the-AC & coast when possible, but we made it to the gas station. What is it with me & rental cars? About 5 years ago, I ran out of gas on the way back to the airport from a family reunion.

When planning the trip, we debated where to drop off the rental car. One alternative was in the city of Liberia---catch a bus to the border. One travel writer wrote about chaos at the border, with a long line of trucks . I opted for braving it to the border. Indeed, there was a very long line of trucks & trailers, but the road was open to bypass them. I expected to see the National Car Rental office approaching the border, but suddenly we were there. Once we off-loaded, AFTER GOING THROUGH Costa Rican Customs, I asked where the Nat’l Car Rental office was. I was told back at the bomba—the gas station about 3 km before the border. I drove back there, only to be told the office was back at the border. On return, I began catching glimpses between the trucks & trailers--of a row of offices, amongst them the National Car one. I arrived about 4:50 pm. The office closed at 5:00! Already checked through CR Customs, all our bags sitting by the border, I hate to think how it would have played out if I had wasted a few more minutes! The car agency gal gave the car a quick look & signed me out. She probably wouldn’t have caught the drooping lic plate, if we hadn’t fixed it. Leaving Atenas B&B on day 2, the steep exit caught the rear license plate, causing one side to droop. Gabriel at El Toledo coffee tour gave us a partial fix with a screw, but it still hung lower on the the R side. Approaching the border, we took a detour in to the town of La Cruz, to a supermercado, to buy a small tube of super glue. It did the trick. I walked quickly back to where I'd left the others & bags—they had put all our bags in a big cart, pushed by a local. But within about 50 meters, a uniformed gal told him he’d reached his limit, so we unloaded everything & began pulling & carrying over the border. Soon a pack of guys from Nicaragua began grabbing our bags. Another big cart, all bags in, we all tried to keep an eye on the cart while we got processed through Nica Customs. In all, it maybe took 45 minutes to cross the border The cart & crew of several got us to a cabbie—‘Not big, but his hatchback was tied in place after most of our bags were stacked in. I carried a couple small ones on my lap, delighted to be in the front seat, so I could talk with the cabbie about our destination, Hostal Ariki. We hadn't decided for sure if we were going to stay in San Juan del Sur. But nightfall was at hand as we left the border & it was the closest alternative. We found Casa Ariki on line. The taxi driver wasn't familiar with it, but, with the address & after asked a few people in the street, we arrived. Friendly greeting from the young proprietor, Baldo.

Mary, Annie & Jerry were dazed on arrival, from being crammed in the back seat & inhaling exhaust fumes for the duration of the 45 minute trip from the border. We got bags in to our rooms & followed Baldo's rec--to a waterfront restaurant for dinner—thatched roof, open to the bay. Several rounds of Flor de Caña (Nica rum) went well with our fish dinners.

Now I can see the beginning of the day—San Juan is surrounded by nearby mountains. I’m going to see about a 1-way car rental to Esteli, in northern Nica. By the time we pay 4 bus fares & consume time getting places, a car rental may to the way to go, if the drop off is possible.

San Juan del Sur, Tue am, 11/5 My interest in another rental car was out-voted—too expensive, gas in additional to rental + insurance. Plus, bus travel is part of the full experience of traveling with Guia Juan (that would be me). We consulted with Baldo & Sarah, our friendly hostel owners & decided on a pickup ride to Playa Hermosa, after lunch until sunset, about a half hour ride on much improved road post Survivor Nicaragua filming there. I elected to ride in back. Lots of surfers at the beach, but waves weren’t breaking right for most of them. I caught a few body surfing, but no thrill rides. A few minutes before the splendid sunset, which just happened to frame a sea-stack, given our location, my camera battery ran out! Mary & Annie both promised to share their pics with me.

We have a shuttle ride to historic Granada at 9:30 am. Plenty of time for breakfast at the Gato Negro, an ex-pat coffee shop/bookstore, with a menu that is something of a blog by the opinionated ex-pat owner.

For pics of San Juan del Sur & Playa Hermosa, Nicaragua, go to https://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/SanJuanDelSurNica#

Wed am, 11/6, Miss Margrit's B&B, Granada

The van from San Juan to Granada yesterday went smoothly. We had the whole van to ourselves & our luggage. Rosa was here to greet us. In addition to teaching English, she works for a non-profit coffee coop outside of León, affiliated with an organization back in Pennsylvania, where she hails from. And, in exchange for the penthouse suite, Rosa helps Chris out with this fabulous B&B. Chris, from England, named the house after his mother. Per Rosa, he has built the B&B in recent years, adding on to the historic front part of the house. We walked to the central plaza, on our way to the Garden Café for lunch, then to Iglesia Merced, for pics, including the fabulous stained glass windows & the spiral staircase to the tower, with views over the cathedral to Lake Nicaragua.

Friday morning, Nov 8, Hotel Austria, León, Nicaragua

Headliner for our stay in the colonial city of Granada was Miss Margrit's—Chris’ B&B. Lovely place, friendly, helpful people, refreshing pool, great breakfasts. Chris was away when we arrived, taking a fellow Brit to climb the big volcano on Ometepe.  Despite returning exhausted, he was cheerfully helpful. The devotion of his rescue doggy, on Chris' return, following a couple of days of separation, was adorable.

We took a horse-drawn carriage ride, including along the Lake Nicaragua shoreline. We didn’t have time for a visit to the nearby islets in the lake. We had the carriage drop us at the market, which was not attractive. I readily followed Mary—usually an avid market shopper-- to the exit, when she began feeling claustrophobic. Our plans for visiting Matagalpa, coffee-region of northern Nica have been scuttled. We got an email from owner of the B&B where we had reservations--a family emergency has led to closing the B&B down. Otherwise, we might have taken our chances with chicken buses, collectivos & taxis to get to Honduras. But that prospect, with all our luggage, isn’t appealing. I went to offices of both international bus lines, Tica & Transnica. I’ve found both their websites to be rather limited. Tica does not go through Esteli, the larger city in the north, where we would pick up the international bus. Transnica has one bus a day. It does stop in Esteli, but arrives, IF on time, in Tegucigalpa at 9 pm--inadvisable time to be getting off a bus with lots of luggage, even tho' we are looking forward to being greeted at the bus station by Arturo, whom Mary met at a coffee fair in Portland a couple of years ago. Tica’s route is via León, no where near Matagalpa, departing Managua at 5:30 am. Granada is more than an hour from Managua. Managua was devastated by an earthquake in 1972. Considered one of the prettier cities of Central American, rather than rebuild, the city spread out, in a hap-hazard, unattractive way, so visiting Managua is no longer on the to-do list of most travelers.

For pics of Granada, go to
https://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/GranadaNicaragua#

Chris arranged a minivan for us, for the trip yesterday from Granada to León. Roberto was our nice driver. More than enough room for the 4 of us & all our luggage. For $35 each, we stopped for over an hour at Apoyo Lagoon, the Crater Lake of Nica—with shoreline steps away, water clear & warm, kayaks waiting. Pretty spot. Next, the climb to Catalina, a town filled with artisans, many specializing in pottery. We met one of the older artists, now 80, who has been making pottery since she was 10, following in the tradition of her parents & grandparents.  I bought a couple of candle globes—with openings to reflect the candle light. Then lunch on the crater rim, the Apoyo Lagoon below, Granada & Lake Nica in the distance. Lovely day. Roberto was a conservative driver (a reassuring rarity in Latin America!). In the rush to unload all of stuff, we left a camera & my pottery buys in the van, which Roberto brought in to us before he left. Down the road a ways, he spied Mary’s bag with her swimsuit & serape, turned around & brought them back to her. Yes, we will give Roberto & his tierratour.com kudos on TripAdvisor!

For pics of Apoyo Lagoon & Catarina, go to https://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/ApoyoLagoonCatarina#

In contrast to soulless Managua, León is an intact colonial city, with the largest cathedral of Central America. 1 & ½ hours north of Managua, we have seats purchased for tomorrow morning & have the luxury of getting to the bus station at a more reasonable hour--to hop on the international Tica bus about 6:30 am, with arrival mid-day in Tegucigalpa. The Austria Hotel is just a block from the plaza & cathedral. It doesn’t have the character of Miss Margrit’s, but it’s pleasant enough. I took a bath in the big tub last night. The AC works well, important in this city noted for being hot, in a country which is already warm by my Pacific NW standards. Rosa (at Miss Margrit's) was going to try to put us in touch with her coffee cooperative, located in the mountains above León, but so far no email link from her. We are here near the end of the rainy season in Central America, referred to as the “Green Season”. While somewhat north of the equator, their “summer” is December to April. First night in Atenas, near San Jose, we had a huge lightening storm, buckets of rain. Jonathan told us we could expect mornings to be dry, afternoons rainy. While we’ve had some pm rains (including last night during dinner, lightening in the sky), overall it’s been less rainy than I expected. A tropical storm is now raging outside the Austria Hotel. Just minutes after we got back here from our excursion to Las Peñitas for sunset on the beach, followed by Pargo (fish) dinner. The most amazing sunset, including rocks & crashing surf in the foreground, a rainbow behind the beach. Our arranged taxi failed to arrive on time. 20 minutes later, the last bus of the day came by & we hoped on,. Back at the hotel, we are told they tried to get word to us that the taxi was delayed. Now the desk person tells they can’t line up a 5:30 am taxi—‘sounds like that taxi service is boycotting us since we didn’t wait for them!

For pics of León, go to
https://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/LeonNicaragua#

For pics of the fabulous sunset at Las Peñitas, go to https://picasaweb.google.com/wrinkles45/LasPenitasNica#