Turkey 2014

Sunday, 16 November 2014   Sitting at the ferry terminal, waiting for the passenger ferry back to Istanbul, after 2 nights in Bursa.  I had decided to include Bursa in our Turkey itinerary, after reading it has been the silk center for Turkey & was the western terminus of the Silk Road. Also a capitol prior to Istanbul, so lots of history. 
Kitap Evi Hotel was delightful—Converted old bookstore inside the historic city wall.  They picked us up from the port & brought us back—on them.  The trip in to Bursa mid-day Friday seemed to take at least an hour, but little traffic for the faster return, leaving some time before the boat departs.      Flight from Athens to Istanbul on Thursday went smoothly.  We had arranged with Marmara Guest House to get picked up at the airport—the way to go, with luggage.  The guest house is about 3 blocks from both the Blue Mosque & Aya Sofia in the historic Sultanamet neighborhood of Istanbul.  A small place, the spiral staircase is tight, head clearance limited a few spots.  I had reserved the  “exquisitely furnished” top floor room, with the canopy bed.  Lucy noted it has something of a hostel feel.  The guesthouse staff were friendly.  Breakfast included many jams made by mother of the staff.    Dinner first night in Turkey was a disappointment.  Not so much the food—mixed plate kebab.  Or the entertainment—a 3-member band.  It was the price—60 Lira for my main dish alone.  That’s about $25.  So much for Turkey being less expensive than the European Union countries.  ‘My fault—I asked for their most popular tradition kebab & they saw the opening for giving me the most expensive. With a ferry departure at 2:30 pm, we didn’t have much time for exploring on Friday morning.  We headed toward the Blue Mosque, with varied info on it possibly being closed on Fridays at mid-day.  A young man near the mosque approached us, told us the mosque was closed.  I asked him about the nearby Cisterns.  He proceeded to TAKE us there & even paid his own (reduced) entrance fee, explaining that his family had a nearby carpet shop, where he wanted to take us, no obligation.  After spending about half an hour looking at numerous carpets, we said we might be back next week, to their disappointment.  I was thinking:  rent for a space right next to the Blue Mosque has to translate to not the most competitive prices. Pics of Istanbul - https://picasaweb.google.com/102259876019428056805/Istanbul2014#

  The sea bus, from Istanbul's Yenikapi dock to Mudanya, didn’t have the spaciousness of Puget Sound or Howe Sound car ferries—just a boat packed with bodies.  About a 90-minute crossing.  Ride was waiting for us.  As noted, Friday afternoon traffic in to Bursa was slow (but not by Seattle rush-hour standards bad).  A van cut in front of us, which provoked our driver in to pulling alongside, rolling window down & ranting at the other driver.

  After settling in to our spacious suite at 12-room Kitap Evi Hotel, complete with modern clawfoot tub (we didn’t manage to get #1, which reportedly has an antique Turkish bath), we were invited for a welcoming drink in the bar, by the real-wood-burning fireplace (it was notably cool, raining lightly on arrival).  We took the advice of hotel staff, to go for a traditional kebab dinner up the street, where the tab was about ¼ of the previous night, in a quaint upstairs of a house.

  After my most restful night of the trip & a varied breakfast spread (see pic), we set out to see Bursa.  Shoes off, Lucy’s head scarf-covered, we explored the Grand Mosque, then visited the silk market next door, where we made several buys.  While the silk now comes from China, the tailoring of scarves and other silk clothing is locally crafted.

  On to visit the Green Mosque & Tomb.  As we were leaving, we encountered Yunus.  Good English—he explained he lived in the States for a few years, adopted by a family  He began by telling us he is hired to do restoration of the mosque tiles.  After some visiting & talk about historic crafts, Yunus led us to his nearby store, well-stocked with ceramics & carpets—new & old.  He tells us he travels Eastern Turkey in his van, buying old carpets.  After looking at many, we narrowed it down to 6, then 5.  Asking price for all 5 was about $800, with shipping,  I got the price down to $530.  While I could have held out for a lower price, I wanted Yunus to see the deal as profitable.  Counting on him to ship the carpets to us, I didn’t want to push too hard for a bargain (a la the necklace in Athens, where the shopkeeper made sure I knew he didn't make a fair profit) & leave him unhappy.

  After dinner last night, we followed Yunus’ suggesting—to go watch whirling dervishes in a center hid up on a hillside in Bursa, walking distance from our hotel.  Saturday night, the dancing was preceded by an inspirational talk (no translation—we were the only non-Turks there).  We were befriended by a school teacher, who in turn introduced us to a ship’s captain who spoke good English, had lived in Vancouver BC for 4 years, who took us under his wing---in to watch the dancing & then showed us around the center.

  Back at the hotel, Lucy found Yunus on Facebook, asked him to be a friend.  Within minutes he responded!  He then, rather late at night, called Lucy (via Facebook) & sold us the 6th carpet—a small matrimonial one, which he brought to the hotel this morning.
Bursa pics - https://picasaweb.google.com/102259876019428056805/Bursa#
https://picasaweb.google.com/102259876019428056805/BursaMosques#
https://picasaweb.google.com/102259876019428056805/BursaDervish#

Early morning, Tue, 18 Nov, Marmara Guest House, Istanbul

  On debarking from the ferry ride back from Bursa, we literally ran in to the Istanbul marathon.  ‘Looked like wall-time for the 4 – 5 hour group, as we pulled our bags across the road between them.  Roads were closed for the marathon, so we walked a ways. We should have followed the recommendation of taking the tram.  Instead, we did hail a taxi—the driver should turn in his keys &  retire—he couldn’t read the address on the Marmara Guesthouse card, without us loaning him readers.  He was still befuddled.  I ended up giving him the 50 Lira he demanded, due to special challenges from road closures.

  Great evening meal that night nearby, at a TripAdvisor suggestion.  Yesterday morning we walked about 3 blocks up the hill to Topkapi Palace, the opulent compound of the Ottoman rulers, who peaked in the 16th ti 18th centuries.  Talk about conspicuous consumption.  How did those sultans manage without Viagra? - 4 wives and a couple hundred concubines! We toured the harem also.  Beautiful mosaic tile work everywhere.

Topkapi Palace pics - https://picasaweb.google.com/102259876019428056805/TopkapiPalace#

On the way to the Grand Bazaar, we stopped at a lambskin “factory” store,  Lucy spied a very nice red lambskin & I got a wallet—to replace the one lifted from my pocket in Naples.  Of course, the shopkeeper had an upstairs room with old carpets,  We looked at some.  Prices were gratifyingly high, making us feel we did a decent job of bargaining with Yunuk in Bursa.

  The Grand Bazaar, in my 20-minute revue, doesn’t merit inclusion in 1000 Places to See Before You Die.  It lacked the historic character of the Tetouan medina I visited in the 1970s in Morocco.  While the walkways were old, glass storefronts make it look like just a semi-quaint super mall.

  Next we made our way via twisting streets of more shops to the Spice Bazaar.  A smooth shopkeeper sold Lucy a variety of spices, including the much more expensive saffron from Iran.

https://picasaweb.google.com/102259876019428056805/GrandBazaarSpiceMarket#

We found our way back to the guesthouse, in time to shower & rest, prior to dinner at a sit-on cushions restaurant up the hill a couple of blocks, build over ruins that can be viewed through the glass floor.

  Wed morning, 19 Nov, Marmara Guest House

As has been the case most of the trip, early to bed, early to rise.  The bed here is hard. the comforter too thick.  I’ve felt rested during daytimes, even if not sleeping through the nights.

  Yesterday we saw Aya Sofya, mosque turned museum.  Lots of visitors, even tho’ mid-November is in to the off season. I can’t imagine what the crowds must to like during high season. We then visited the archaeological museum.

https://picasaweb.google.com/102259876019428056805/AyaSofyaArchaeology#

Lucy still had energy for the Museum of Turkish & Islamic Arts, but it was closed—‘listed on our 3-Day Museum Pass—no mention it’s been closed for months for renovation.  One less museum didn’t disappoint me—gave us an hour to rest before our hamam—the guesthouse made a reservation for our Turkish baths & we were picked up here taken to the old baths, in use since the 1500s.  Separate baths for men.  After steam room & sauna, my masseuse laid me on a marble slab, lathered me up & worked on my tight muscles.  After more steam & sauna, I followed the example of other bathers (all locals—no fellow tourists), I laid on the marble slab for a while, followed by dumping pans of hot & cooler water over me.

  We fly to London this afternoon.

  Seattle-bound on a flight out of Philadelphia, stuck in the middle seat of a packed plane,  2 rows from a screeching baby.  The 8.5 hour flight from London was more relaxed—plenty of empty seats so I moved up & had Seats A & B to myself.  And my own video screen—I watched 3 movies.  This plane has no screen, even for communal viewing & not even any music for headset listening.  Oh well, this too will pass.  Lucy a has an ear ache—a cold coming on.  I feel fine.  No bouts of anything during the 3 weeks.  The script of Cipro will be saved for next trip.

  Our night in London (West Drayton, about 20 minutes from Heathrow), was mostly uneventful.  Hostess at the Oakwood B&B has family living in Puyallup! Indeed, 7 degrees of separation, it's a small world...