Oaxaca & Huatulco, February 2018

My flights to Oaxaca were rather uneventful. Even tho' my main bag can (barely) fit in to the overhead, since it didn't cost to check it, I did. At LAX, the long walk from the Alaska terminal to the

American was helped by an entertaining shuttle driver. She warned of upcoming bumps & turns, stopped to chat with Gloria Allred (dressed in all red!), who was walking the other way in the tunnel. With almost 6 hours of lay over in Mexico City, it was nice to get bennies like 1^st class at the Aeromar lounge.

My flight landing in Oaxaca was preceded by a bigger one. While no customs to pass through, the line to buy a ticket for the collectivo to downtown was long & hardly moving. Fortunately, Deanna spied me & plucked me out of line--the 4 gals had anticipated my arrival & bought a collectivo ticket for me.

The 4 gals: Sister Mary, Niece Deanna, Gayle, Mary's friend of ~ 40 years ago in Lincoln City (joined us in Huatulco last Feb) & Savenia, Deanna's roommate.

The gals, with a significant layover in Mexico City, made it memorable. Gayle left her phone on the plane from Portland. Lost & found FOUND it for her—with still sufficient time to catch their Oaxaca flight, BUT, they were waiting at the wrong gate--realized just in time to make a sprint to the far side of the terminal to catch their flight, which then sat on the tarmac for about an hour, waiting for clearance to take off.

We got in to our 2 rooms at CasAntica after brief delays. Mary, Gayle & I have the spacious Presidential suite, including Jacuzzi tub, facing the street, church & sunrise. Deanna & Savenia have a Jr suite on the main level of this lovely converted nunnery. Mary & I stayed here with Peace Corps friends Jim & Lynn & Lynn's sister, Margie, last year.

None of us slept much on our red-eyes. Not the most conventional sleepers, we all slept well our first night in Oaxaca.

We found Eugenio last year (Tel 52-195-1112-3207)—a veteran tour guide with van that comfortably seats the 5 of us. On short-notice, he was available to take us to Monte Alban mountaintop pre-Colombian (Olmec, then Zapotec) ruins.  While I had visited Monte Alban several times in past years, it was never with a guide. Eugenio's explanations, including the geographic genius of the builders, were very informative.  

 

After Monte Alban, we visited Arrazola, village of carvers of wooden animals—alebrijes. .Endless choices in the many workshops alongside each other.  We did end up making some exciting purchases. First time out of the States (not counting cruising along BC to Alaska), Savenia has been awestruck so far.

We went to the little Argentine pizzeria around the corner from CasAntica for a light dinner—yummy thin-crust pizzas. Mary & I found it last February & were happy to find it's still doing business in this city famous for great eats.

Saturday, Feb 10, we made it an in-city day. After the breakfast provided at CasAntica,.we walked to the markets south of the zocalo, Benito Juarez & 20 De Noviembre, bought bags and ear rings, had chocolate, Then on to the artisan market, where I got an embroidered blouse for Juliet & a shirt for Rowan.

Next we visited Felix shoe store on Independencia, that Julie had turned us on to last year. I need frequent flyer miles, so we put all ELEVEN pairs on my American Airlines MasterCard. Most pairs were 280 pesos—only $14.87 US!

We came back to CasAntica for a swim & rest, followed by a visit to Santo Domingo Church, where a wedding limited our gawking at the elaborate interior. After Mezcal margaritas at Danzantes, we watched a parade go by, then dined at Catedral Restaurant across from our hotel. All of us were delighted with our meals, accompanied by a guitarist.

Sunday we went to the Tlacolula weekly market, with Eugenio. Large area of vendors of most everything, with an old church in the center. I found a beautifully painted gourd that I'm sure Juliet will like. 

We visited Teotitlan del Valle on our return toward Oaxaca. Mary & I weren't certain of entrance to home of weavers we have visited in previous trips—we originally met them in the cemetery, shared shots of mezcal in memory of their deceased one, then went to their home, where they had large looms & weavings in process. A few years later we returned, with pics of children now years older, from our first visit, which were a hit. 'Good chance they were at Tlacolula, selling their weavings. We did some shopping in street shops in Teotiltlan, then returned to Oaxaca, with agreement that Eugenio would take us to the airport in the morning.

We walked to the zocalo for dinner. The gals bought several shawls from girls selling in the square. To pay for dinner, I looked for my MasterCard, only to find it missing from my wallet! Last place I remembered using it was at nearby Catedral Restaurant. Sure enough—they had it for me there! If I'd waited until I got to Huatulco, it'd be hassle of cancel time.

We didn't sleep as well Saturday night, knowing we had a 9 am Aerotucan flight to catch. CasAntica had early breakfast for us, our luggage filled up Eugenio's van. We were first in line at the airport. Extra luggage cost us 780 pesos, but the plane was up to it. We 5 made up almost half of the 12 passengers. As we passed through clouds at the Sierra Madre del Sur summit, we had several seconds of exciting flutter, but it didn't last long—we were through the clouds & back into sunshine soon, 'Smooth landing at Huatulco Airport.

Planning for the trip, I found car rental rates that were almost free. While I could have paid a lot more, I reserved an intermediate car for a week for about $6/day! I knew that required insurance was going to be steep. The Alamo agent first quoted liability insurance that seemed reasonable, He then told me that comprehensive was gong to be about twice the liability amount, brings insurance to about $100/day. 'Made it easy to decide to give Andres a call--52-958-107-3380. He was our regular taxi guy last February, pleasant, speaks good English. Sure enough—he has a friend with a van & within half an hour they picked us up & brought us to the Holiday Inn, our lodging for our 6 nights in Huatulco.

We have 3 rooms here. Only a couple of years old, all quarters are bright & comfortable. I have the harbor-view room, with understanding this will be gathering place when we party at home.

For dinner, we walked to Mama Elsa's—a burger food cart across the street from Hotel Villablanca, where we stayed last year. When Mary was making reservations for this trip, she couldn't find availability at Villablanca—because those Canadians had beat us to it--for being a country of sparse population, it's amazing to find so many here, even tho' they also readily go to Cuba to get away from their savage winters. From last year, we found several of them at their usual table next to the pool, chatted for a while before gong to dinner.

As has been the case most nights, I slept well again—like my sleeping style of napping in the recliner, getting up to check email & watch late-night TV--is eradicated.

Tuesday after breakfast we caught a couple of cabs to Playa Entrega—5 to 10 minutes from our hotel in Santa Cruz. We camped at a table in the shade of almond trees, took turns snorkeling, walking the beach, taking pics of cute kids, buying from local vendors, drinking Victorias (good Mexican beer), having shrimp/avocado empanados.

One of Mary's past coffee customers in Salem, Tom, has retired in Puerto Escondido, about a 90-minute drive from Huatulco. He asked Mary to bring him some things from the States, that he can't get here. He came to pick up the items, say hi & spend the night here. He picked Pto, Escondido as a location near the beach, but more affordable that touristy spots. He pays $350 a month for his 2-bed/2-bath place there. His efforts to pick up Gayle didn't come close.

Mary & Gayle signed up for a seafood cooking class Wednesday. Haircut time for me, as Deanna & Sevenia get familiar with Huatulco afoot. Following the advice of hotel front desk staff, I went looking for a peluqueria—barbershop. The gal in front of the massage place said I'd have to go to town (Crucecita), but I decided to ask others & was told it was up ahead. Geraldine was pleasant & did a fine job on my hair. Asked 145 pesos (~ $8), I gave her 200.

On the way back to the hotel I found a white Huatulco 2X tanque (tank top). Asking price 120 pesos, I settled for 110.

Wednesday afternoon Andres & a taxista friend took us to Playa San Agustine. The 13 km dirt road seems to get longer each time it has to be endured. 

Repeat of last year, we timed it to visit nearby Playa Coyote for sunset.  How was I to know the red flag fluttering above the beach was a message for me?  I was wandering along, when I noticed Andres running pell-mell toward me--if a sneaker wave came in, the steepness of the beach would likely have swept me out, with slim chance of swimming my way out!

Thursday morning, Mary & I were chauffeured by Andres.  A little over an hour's drive up in to the Sierra Madre del Sur, we snaked our way up in to the ridge-top town of Pluma Hidalgo. We scored 6 kilos of good-looking green coffee beans. Friend Julie, who usually winters in Oaxaca, told me last year about San Pedro Cafetitlan, east of Pluma, a coffee town. It was sleepy on our mid-day arrival. We didn't connect with a coffee person.  With a grand panorama toward the ocean to the south & to the west, I suggested to Mary & Andres that we stay until sunset--I expect we missed a fabulous one.  Driving that (hard to believe only) 8 km road back to Pluma Hidalgo after sundown wouldn't be fun. 

On arrival back in Huatulco, we ran in to Deanna & Savenia, just back from Hotel Villablanca—our hotel last Feb. They had gone there for breakfast, stayed to visit with Canadian guests & take advantage of the big pool, knowing that all the poolside chairs at our small pool at the Holiday Inn get claimed by regular users early in the day. After a couple of hours, hotel staff figured out they weren't Villablanca guests & ushered them out.

While at the Villablanca, the gals had read the announced evening dinner specials (Mahi Mahi or lobster). 'Sounded good, so we caught 2 cabs back there, only to discover the specials on the board were for the night before & we arrived to an arranged evening meal that we couldn't crash (unlike the pool earlier in the day!). Two more cabs got us to Alfredo's, in Crucecita. He was chef for Mary & Gayle yesterday—for their cooking class. He greeted them warmly. When Mary & I first stayed in Crucecita in 2006 (http://john-at-large.blogspot.mx/2006/), I recall it as much quieter, less touristy.

Friday morning we boarded Johan's small boat. We headed out to sea, in search of dolphins & turtles. Found & followed a school of dolphins for a while. Heading back toward shore, we came upon 4 solo turtles. Each got shy & dove as we approached. We jumped off the boat at Maguey Bay, had food & drinks. I bought strings of pearls from a vendor coming by our table. We snorkeled briefly on our way back to Sana Cruz.

Getting ready to go to Chahue Beach for sunset, we were asked to exit the hotel—earthquake! 'Don't know why I didn't feel the initial quake, as we all felt the aftershock while dining an hour later at Hotel Villablanca. De ja vous for Gayle, Mary & me—we were at Hotel Villablanca last Feb during earthquake & aftershocks. I'm surprised we didn't feel the initial 7.2 quake, with an epicenter only about 50 miles west of here—near Puerto Escondido.

Friday night, my balcony was ideal for watching fireworks. Santa Cruz park, next to the marina, is site of the Festival de Cuaresma. Strange, that Huatulco has a “Lent Festival” the first Friday of Lent, when at its core, Lent is to be a lack of indulgence! We could see a big explosion near the site of launching the fireworks & feared there had been a serious accident, but a few minutes later there was a very impressive series of fireworks above the harbor.

Saturday we returned to Playa la Entrega. 'Got our spot again, in the shade of the almond trees. Venito waited on us again. I gave him my 3rd & final baseball that I brought. I snorkeled around the corner to a small beach Mary & Deanna had visited Tuesday. Some of the fish with blue spots are so bright it seems they have an internal source of light.

'Bought a colorful straw basket--an outstanding lunchbox for Juliet. The gals, as usual, seriously out-shopped me, with vendors coming by our table, weighted down with jewelry, clothing, you name-it. I thought about a parrot wind “chime” (moves in the wind, but no sound), but decided it might break in luggage.

Sunday, February 18—Return home travel day.

All 4 gals booked return flights with less than an hour layover in Mexico City. Mary got a text to check with Orbitz. Deanna didn't get a similar notice from Expedia. Gayle, concerned about missing the connecting flight & wanting to make sure she'd get back to work as planned, got an earlier flight from Huatulco to Mexico City. The other 3 decided to take their chances. With little to spare, they made their flight from Mexico City to Portland.

When booking return months ago, I couldn't find a good fare to Seattle. I did find a great Interjet deal to Vancouver, BC (YVR), so I grabbed it, thinking I'd take Amtrak to Tacoma. The connection time was iffy—due to arrive YVR at 4:50 am, Amtrak Cascades departing from station in downtown Vancouver at 6:35 am. So, I got a flight from YVR to SEA. 'Good thing—even prior to 6 am, lines were long to get through Customs at YVR. When will I learn?! By the time I paid for the flight back to SEA from YVR, I spent about as much as the pricey fare directly to SEA..

Lucy & CoCo were waiting for me in near-freezing weather at Sea-Tac. It's nice to be home...