Mexico 2019

March 19, 2019. (Mom is still praying for me daily—While she'll miss Mary, she did give us her blessing for this trip!)

Seat 7C—Alaska Flt 226, San Jose – Guadalajara (GDL). And , I didn't have to pay for the upgrade from Basic Coach! The extra space from the seat in front of me makes laptop on seat tray much more comfortable. I love getting deals! Lucy dropped me at SeaTac, at 8 am. I got to the American Air counter after a short wait, only to be informed the plane for DFW was undergoing maintenance. Anticipated arrival in Dallas was not enough to make my connecting flight to GDL. Fortunately, Alaska, by way of San Jose, turned out to be an excellent alternative—getting me to GDL 2+ hours sooner. And I'm on the same flight with Ann & Jerry, so we'll be picked up together at the airport by a hotel transport. I was able to call Mary & let her know I won't be joining her and Gary in Dallas.

We've been talking about this trip since our Oaxaca trip 13 months ago. Mary has been a daily companion with Mom at The Woods care center and dearly deserves this vacation. Ann & Jerry, Mary's friends, went to Central America with us in 2016. Gary worked with Mary years ago. They have talked about Gary joining us on an adventure for years. Last year Gary got his passport, first ever—his statement of readiness to leave the US of A for the first time!

Mom turned 103 on March 8. We celebrated with her at The Woods the next day. Mary has been lining up support for Mom while we are in Mexico for 15 days. When Mary & I were in Mexico last winter, Donna came & saw Mom daily. But, a few months ago Doyal, her husband, had a serious stroke. He is still in assisted living, unable to speak, has limited use of his left side. He did do a harmonica Happy Birthday duet for Mom with Daughter Darlene.  Donna doesn't want to be away from Doyal for long, thus the recruitment of other companions.

We will stay 2 nights in Guadalajara, 3 nights in San Miguel de Allende (SMA), 3 nights in Guanajuato (Gto) & 7 nights in Puerto Vallarta (PV) to finish the fortnight. Daughter Kate joins us in PV.

'Seems like a long flight. Through the transparent curtain separating 1st Class from the rest of us plebs, big chocolate chip cookies are being passed out. But—no milk. That's no bueno!

March 20, eve, Hotel Morales, Guadalajara

Mary made a great find in this historic hotel in the center of Guadalajara. Lovely arches, courtyards, spacious rooms, firm beds. Mary & I both slept fairly well last night. 

One of Mary's friends knows Herbert, an expat who has lived here for 12 years, He's a writer. Years ago he had a greenhouse and was a florist in Salem.  He took us on a walking tour of the historic center today. 'Very informative.  Churches, Orozco murals, etc.

Lunch at La Chaca. 

After a dip in the swimming pool & a short rest, we caught the 2-decker bus to Tlaquepaque, did some shopping, had some delicious margaritas, took pics of art & churches, gave children light sticks, caught a taxi back to the hotel 'Full day. Gary has a fit bit. We walked 16,000 steps today!

March 22, eve, San Miguel de Allende (SMA)

The van we hired to bring us & our luggage to SMA was smaller than we expected, Fortunately the roof rack was a good one. It was tight for the 2 sitting in the back seat. And the road was long. No one commented on my choice over 1st Class bus. While it was more expensive, by the time we hired 2 taxis to get us to the bus station in GDL, paid bus fare for 5 ,then caught 2 taxis from the SMA bus depot to our lodging here, I decided that hiring the van door-to-door was the better way to go.

Oscar, our driver, was pleasant. We stopped at Lagos de Moreno, a Pueblo Magico (Magical Town—Tourism Mexico pays the town to keep its historic character), for lunch and to check out the church there.  While it broke up the trip, the lunchtime stop at Lagos de Moreno also added time. Besides paying about $55/person for the van, we went thru 4 toll booths that each cost several $. I figures, as much as we were paying, Oscar should have paid the tolls. I took that in to account & gave him a smaller tip,

We are staying at Posada de la Luna, a B&B in SMA. Mary found it on line. While she booked a room with king + queen for Gary, her & me, that room only has 2 queens. I volunteered to sleep on a single mattress they brought in. I did OK last night. Hopefully again tonight.

We are about 4 blocks from the zocalo, “El Jardin”, across from the amazing Parroquia. It looks like it's out of a fairy tale. Dramatically lit at night. First night here, we enjoyed dinner and musica at Los Milagros Restaurant, half a block from the Jardin. My 5-star TripAdvsior rating: Truely feels like fairyland. Night lighting is exquisite. In front of the zocalo (El Jardin), that is always bustling--wedding processions, outstanding mariaches. 

We took a bus tour around SMA yesterday morning.  My TripAdvisor review: The next bus with English-speaking guide was already fully booked, so we took the Spanish-speaking one. The guide was a character--'had us dancing & clapping. A nice bilingual passenger tried to interpret for us, but the guide was really boisterous. 'Spent a lot of the trip in the hills south of central SMA, with nice view of the historic center.

We had a nice lunch at Hotel Loreto, just a block away from Posada de la Luna.  We noticed lots of single, older gringas.  We chatted with one--she came to visit 12 years ago, loved it so much she returned to the States, sold her home & has been happily living in SMA ever since. 

For dinner, we found a roof-top restaurant just west of the Parroquia. Amazing sunset. On our way back through the Jardin, toward our to hotel, we enjoyed a large Mariachi band, maybe a dozen strong. 'Great singers & instrument players.

Very nice weather here. Cool at night & in the morning. Sun gets strong early afternoon.

March 23, eve, San Miguel de Allende (SMA)

I did about the same on the mattress on the floor last night—some tossing & turning, but I felt rested come morning.

After breakfast today, we went to La Gruta hot springs in Atotonilco. Very nice. Pool with warm water had a powerful waterfall—great for neck & back massage. A warmer pool had a tunnel in to an unlit cave. Pretty grounds, lots of trees & lawn, nicely maintained.

From the hot springs we went to the Sanctuario of Atotonilco—a church built allegedly on the site where a priest had a vision of Jesus carrying the cross—so over decades, he built this church, adorned with murals that are called the Sistine Chapel of Mexico.  Along with the historic center of SMA, it's a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

We again visited El Jarlin this evening, more pics of the spellbinding Parroquia, gave light-stick bracelet to kids—and grownups too! After searching for a last supper restaurant in SMA (busy Saturday night, one recommended place had a waiting line), we settled on Milagros again—more nice music & good food.

Sunday night, March 24, Hotel La Casona de Don Lucas, Plaza de la Paz, Guanajuato (Gto)

After breakfast this morning, we did some shopping at the artesan market very near Posada la Luna. We caught a couple of taxis to the bus station & found the seats I purchased on line were indeed waiting for us, first 3 rows of the Prima Plus 1st class bus. Pleasant trip, good driver. We readily hailed 2 taxis at the Gto bus station, to bring us to the hotel. We found the Taberna de Diego & Frida close by, shared a plate of paella. Prices were rather high. Back to the hotel to rest.

Ann & Jerry have a very large room, with a spacious entry. Mary, Gary & I have a king down and 2 full beds in the loft. A balcony, with a splendid view of Iglesia Nuestra Senora. 'Great location, about 2 blocks to the zocalo.

After resting, we visited the church & another nearby, then followed meandering streets to the zocalo, El Jardin. It was packed with people, vendors, mariachis, estudiantes (students) drumming up people for walks while they perform & involve the participants. We wandered for a while, then happened on to Truco 7. Our agua frescas of various fruit flavors were delicious. 'Prices very reasonable.

Tuesday morning, March 26, Gto.

After breakfast buffet here in the hotel yesterday, we walked to the Jardin & base of the funicular—a tram that climbs up to the panorama of the city & statute of Pipila, famous fighter in the Independencia. There we ran in Mark & Julie Vida. Mary and I first met Mark & Julie in Oaxaca in 2005. They responded to a Lonely Planet Thorntree offer I sent out when we had a vacant room at Casa San Felipe. We have had email contact over the years, Julie sharing some of her amazing photography and reports of her travels (Ecuador, SE Asia...). Mary learned Julie has spent time in Guanajuato & Julie mentioned coming here now to celebrate their wedding anniversary (they "eloped" here, per Julie) & we coordinated our plans to celebrate with them.

Last night we had dinner with them at Metate & Salmiada, a rooftop restaurant owned by a Canadian. Great views of the sunset, superb drinks & entrees. 

We made our way to the Jardin, where, sure enough, we encountered the poncho vendor Mark has promised to buy from--for years.  Mark's promise to buy was finally fulfilled. 

Late morning, Tues, 3/26

Museum of Diego Rivera childhood home & art is only a couple of blocks from our hotel. It doesn't have any of his murals. They are in a museum in Mexico City—and adorning places of historic importance in various locations in the country--Guadalajara for one. While not far away, the University is up a hill.  Late morning, I elected to retreat back to our room, while Mary & Gary went to visit it. My stamina hasn't adjusted to the altitude. As always, I perspire at first exertion, in spite of dressing in tankie—only guy on the streets so-clothed. I usually carry a collared shirt, slip in on when entering churches or nicer restaurants.

Tuesday eve, 3/26

Midday, we hailed taxis for the Hacienda San Gabriel de Barrera, a few minutes out of town, which included fast driving through tunnels that are the aftermath of silver mining. Lovely grounds.

Returning to town, while bushed, we briefly visited the Don Quixote Museum. So much art has been inspired by the Cervantes' idealist. The museum was the creation of Eulalio Ferrer. As a 20-year old Republican captain in the Spanish Civil War, Eulalio Ferrer, his parents were missing, he had seen enough of the horrors of war. In a refugee camp in, France, all he had in his pockets was a crumpled pack of cigarettes. Starving, having witnessed war, death, and unspeakable atrocities, Ferrer was on the brink of madness. “Tobacco for a book”, – Ferrer suddenly heard a voice of an old French guard, looking to exchange a pocket tome for a pack of cigarettes. The book on offer was very small. Ferrer hesitated; the book could serve as a pillow, he decided finally, and gave the soldier his pack of smokes. But instead of putting the little volume under his head, the young captain opened it and began reading.  He devoured the book from end to end. Then again. And again. And again. It was “Don Quixote” by Miguel de Cervantes – and for Ferrer, it became a light in the darkness. As the darkness of the Second World War descended on Europe, he fled to Mexico. He began working as a reporter in Mexico City soon creating his own media and public relations company that prospered. Ferrer became wealthy, influential and powerful. But he never forgot the years in the French refugee camp – or Cervantes. Books became Ferrer’s life mission. He established scholarships and generously funded literature courses in universities across Mexico; “the most precious gift for a poor man is a library, and the most powerful magic is books”, – he used to say. In 1987, Ferrer opened the doors of the Don Quixote Museum in Guanajuato. He knew he had to share the Sad Knight with the world.

We just returned from anniversary celebration with Julie & Mark at Casa Rector rooftop bar. Wonderful view of Gto at sunset. We were seated next to a couple celebrating their birthdays today. An 8-person mariachi band serenaded them. What a fortunate seating arrangement. The band was magnifico! 

Early to bed—we have a ride to Leon Airport at 5 am! - Flying first to Mexico City, then on to Pto Vallarta!

Saturday morning, March 30, Puerto Vallarta (PV)

We had plenty of time to make both flights Wednesday—from Leon to Mexico City & on to PV. Good leg room in the Interjet planes. The fares were so low I feared they were a mistake—about
$80/person. Prices for each leg of the trip cost more than both combined!

Our ride I set up with the resort, Club Regina (CR), was waiting for us, as we departed the terminal--for the short ride to Marina Vallarta. Eduardo, at reception, did a great job of locating our 3 suites next to each other. 9^th floor. The Club Suite, Ann & Jerry on one side, me on the other, faces Banderas Bay. Kate's king/Jacuzzi is the next unit, facing the marina, with Mary & Gary's 2 bed/kitchenette suite the next one.  All have reported fairly good nightly rest. The single roll-a-way cot has worked for me. 'Glad I didn't try to tolerate the uncomfortable pullout “sleeper”!

Beautiful sunset Wednesday night—we watched it from the beach.

Thursday Mary, Kate & I took the Vallarta by Road Food Tour, visiting 8 restaurants around historic downtown. Shawnie, our guide, an ex-pat, was entertaining. All food tastings were sabrosas.

Pool and beach time in the afternoon.

Friday we took a boat ride with Vallarta Adventures—to the Marietta Islands. 2-tiered boat, maybe 100 passengers. The lead staff member was a bit much at first—ordering us to be enthused, but as the day went along I found him more tolerable.  Circumvention of the islands wasn't as intimate as the fishing boat Mary & I rented last trip from the nearby town.  That smaller boat got closer, we saw more bird-life, including many Blue-footed Boobies. The snorkeling was bad. Only Kate snorkeled, It was a lengthy swim to where snorkeling was suppose to be good, but the water was murky. On the way back to PV, the boat crew put on an entertaining show, including lip-cinking and break dancing. As I wrote on the evaluation—food was OK, crew were pleasant, but such group “adventures” aren't my kind of thing. Next PV stay, I'll be inclined to go with friend Jane's #1 recommendation while in PV - ADA Sailing, a more intimate yacht outing on Bay of Banderas - https://www.adasailing.com/

We've taken to 10-peso buses to & from historic center several times. Beginning of the “Marina” route is about a block from CR. They leave every few minutes. Saturday morning we began to call ubers. 6 of us comfortably fill up 2 small ubers. We went to Saturday organic market. Lots of English spoken. Small stage with live music. From there we walked to the flea market along the Cuale River, shopped for gifts, ate at the loncheria on the west side of the market. 

Bused to Walmart for grocery shopping. My pants with zipper pocket are tight, so I've been having Kate carry my money for me the last couple of days. 'Been wanting a haircut, I saw my chance—I grabbed 200 pesos from Kate and I thought I said "see you back at CR". 'Found a hair salon next door, got my haircut, caught a bus home, thinking I might even beat the food shoppers. Which I did. And then some—because they were all waiting for me at Walmart, thinking I only had money for the haircut & none to get home! 1st uber home & a phone call to the others resolved the missing “Guia Juan” episode. As compensation for their waiting for me, groceries purchased, tired from day of shopping, I took everyone to a wonderful Japanese dinner down the road. Without a reservation, we ate at the sushi bar, but we all loved our food choices.

Sunday we got massages by the pool. For dinner we ubered to Abulon (a place we were introduced to on the Thursday food tour), for shrimp tacos, then to the Malecon--walk along water's edge for sunset. The others are getting soft on me, preferring 30 pesos each to return home via ubers, rather than 10 pesos on the bus—Marina route bus was only a block from where we got ubers!

Monday breakfast back to Callejon, about a block away. A couple more blocks away, in the marina, I found a pedicure—at ELBA. Quoted price 250 pesos (~ $13.40). The gal slapped her hand a couple times, when I winched. She took over an hour on my ugly nails. I tipped her 100%, but then asked her earn her tip—by trimming my ear hair that the barber failed to get the other day.

In the Marina, along with the beauty shop where I got the pedicure, there are a variety of shops & restaurants. Some of the group checked it out while I hid out from the afternoon sun. We gathered at El Callejon for dinner.

While we've talked of breaking out the deck of cards for a game of hearts, by early eve we are feeling weary and ready for bed. While I have had some periods laying awake, given that at home I'm unaccustomed to early bedtime, I have slept really well throughout the trip.

Mary, Kate & I took an uber to San Pancho yesterday. Lovely beach, 'tho a bid steep with strong waves (up the coast from Bay of Banderas)--maybe risky for swimming. We had comfortable lounge chairs on the beach, for drinks & lunch. A sweet young gal from Poland came along, gave Mary & Kate henna tattoos. 'Nice work, but they are fading quickly.  'Shopped for shirts for the grand kids.  'Got a kilo of organic green coffee beans for Mary to roast after return  home.

Ubered back in plenty of time for pretty sunset on beach & dinner at CR's restaurant.

Flying home tomorrow...